'94 Pickup extra 22RE w/ 5spd swap then maybe Diesel
#22
Registered User
Great build, I also like the "ghost" frame and axle. Never seen that before. Unless you need to crawl big rocks and obstacles, keep the 31's, it looks good.
#23
Registered User
Before you decide to go diesel check out my 79 turbo diesel thread. I have converted a 94 4runner and My current daily driver is the 79 pick up. Both have W56 5 spds. Better performance than the 3.0 and better mileage than the 22re. Good thread here waiting to see more.
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies, sorry I haven't been active on the forum lately.
Yea the harness in the cab of my truck which was originally a 3.0 automatic plugs into the 22re ECU with no issues, all gauges work, engine light works, and no clutch start! Didn't have to do any splicing or wiring. Just put the cab on, ran the 22re engine harness into the cab (same mount points in the engine and all) plugged everything in and the truck started no electric issues. Same fuse boxes and all. I hope all the fuses work but I've put about 4k miles on this swap with no troubles.
More work needed however, which is why I'm finally back.
I just discovered the timing chain hasn't been done on this 22re motor yet and it's got about 120k on it. That explains the noise, thought it was the valves. I feel pretty dumb not inspecting the timing chain before I put the motor in, would have made the job much easier. I just discovered LCE performance though, and engnbldr.com. Both look like great sources for quality parts. Found them thanks to this youtube video:
I'm going to take the valve cover off and check for sure tonight but it seems very obvious that's the source of the noise, sounds just like everyone says a stretched chain sounds like.
Going to do a full timing chain kit, clean the motor up, replace the leaky front seals finally, new rad hoses, maybe a new water pump, needs a new fuel tank and I'm sure plenty of other stuff along the way. Couple weekends of work and the truck will be mint.
Took it out for a couple good trips last month, friend and I may have broadcasted pirate fm from a couple ridges in VT. Went to this neat radar station in East Haven. The flat bed is the best thing ever!!!
Yea the harness in the cab of my truck which was originally a 3.0 automatic plugs into the 22re ECU with no issues, all gauges work, engine light works, and no clutch start! Didn't have to do any splicing or wiring. Just put the cab on, ran the 22re engine harness into the cab (same mount points in the engine and all) plugged everything in and the truck started no electric issues. Same fuse boxes and all. I hope all the fuses work but I've put about 4k miles on this swap with no troubles.
More work needed however, which is why I'm finally back.
I just discovered the timing chain hasn't been done on this 22re motor yet and it's got about 120k on it. That explains the noise, thought it was the valves. I feel pretty dumb not inspecting the timing chain before I put the motor in, would have made the job much easier. I just discovered LCE performance though, and engnbldr.com. Both look like great sources for quality parts. Found them thanks to this youtube video:
I'm going to take the valve cover off and check for sure tonight but it seems very obvious that's the source of the noise, sounds just like everyone says a stretched chain sounds like.
Going to do a full timing chain kit, clean the motor up, replace the leaky front seals finally, new rad hoses, maybe a new water pump, needs a new fuel tank and I'm sure plenty of other stuff along the way. Couple weekends of work and the truck will be mint.
Took it out for a couple good trips last month, friend and I may have broadcasted pirate fm from a couple ridges in VT. Went to this neat radar station in East Haven. The flat bed is the best thing ever!!!
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm not sure it's ever been open to drive up but if you have a truck you can drive around the barriers. Lots of people drive up there on the weekends, luckily it wasn't too crowded the day we went up.
I took my valve cover off and my chain guide is broken so I need to replace the timing chain. It looks exactly like it does in the video. Ordering a timing chain kit from LC Engineering with the metal backed guides. Kinda pricey but everyone seems to say it's worth it. I spent so much time tuning everything on this motor it already runs smooth even with the loos cam chain so I'm excited to fix that cuz then it will really purr
I took my valve cover off and my chain guide is broken so I need to replace the timing chain. It looks exactly like it does in the video. Ordering a timing chain kit from LC Engineering with the metal backed guides. Kinda pricey but everyone seems to say it's worth it. I spent so much time tuning everything on this motor it already runs smooth even with the loos cam chain so I'm excited to fix that cuz then it will really purr
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Stranded camping at work doing this timing chain for the weekend, auto parts store is within walking distance though. Just wanted to say that there are way more reasons to have a 2" body lift than I even thought of when I did it. It's already making this timing chain project easier. When I picked up some gaskets at the yota dealer I asked about doing the chain without removing the head and they said they did that all the time. Gotta take off the oil pan and the body lift is nice for reaching the motor mounts and lifting the motor up instead of messing with the IFS bolts.
#29
Registered User
There are times I really wish I had ifs (pot holes, washboard surfaces, expansion joints, etc) and then I remember how much I like working on my '85 cause of it's simplicity. I can pull the oil pan easily with jack stands on the frame and letting the springs lower the axle.
Make sure to put a thin layer of rtv around the top lip of the timing cover on installation. When you leave the head on, it tends to scrape the head gasket which can cause an oil leak. Also, the chain tensioner can bind if you over torque it. 9 ft/lbs on the 2 bolts and use high-temp thread sealant so they don't loosen.
Make sure to put a thin layer of rtv around the top lip of the timing cover on installation. When you leave the head on, it tends to scrape the head gasket which can cause an oil leak. Also, the chain tensioner can bind if you over torque it. 9 ft/lbs on the 2 bolts and use high-temp thread sealant so they don't loosen.
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yea, I'd like to swap to a straight axle soon. Possibly design my own 4 link, we'll see.
I got rtv for the head gasket and thread sealer for that bolt on the oil pump, I'll use it on the tensioner too, thanks! Got the FSM and going straight off that!
Got the front main bolt off with heat and a starter bump no problem! Front pulley came off with some moderate mallet taps.. Going well
I got rtv for the head gasket and thread sealer for that bolt on the oil pump, I'll use it on the tensioner too, thanks! Got the FSM and going straight off that!
Got the front main bolt off with heat and a starter bump no problem! Front pulley came off with some moderate mallet taps.. Going well
#31
love the truck, im doing the same on my 92 4runner! 22re swap from a 3.0. Thanks for sharing the pics. Also thats cool that the 3.0 cabin harness interchanges with the 22re ecu i would of never tried that lol.