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Anytime I have the valve cover off, I retorq the head bolts. I have seen several loose and feel that is probably the biggest issue for head gasket failure. Always seems to be the head bolts on the exhaust side in my opinion.
Anytime I have the valve cover off, I retorq the head bolts. I have seen several loose and feel that is probably the biggest issue for head gasket failure. Always seems to be the head bolts on the exhaust side in my opinion.
Thanks for the tip. I re-adjusted my valves at full operating temperature and made sure to check the head bolts. I don't have a torque wrench yet, but they all passed my RFT inspection.
No major difference in valve gap at full operating temp, but I made some very minor adjustments on about half of them.
Truck runs much warmer overall with a thermostat in it (duh). The gauge reads just a hair over 1/4 of the way up, whereas before it was barely over the low line.
Got a new windshield washer pump installed. I got the ANCO brand "Denso/OEM replacement" model on RockAuto, but it didn't fit into the OEM plug. Not married to the plug, so I snipped it and got my soldering pen (that I've still never used after 10 years of owning it) warming up, but I found some crappy wiring crimps laying around so I just used those. The hose was broken clean in half for some reason, so I went to O'Reilly and got 7 feet of replacement hose, cost me $4. When I went to put it in, all but one of the plastic clips that hold the hose to the hood crumbled to the touch, so I zip-tied and duct-taped my way to a professional installation. Works great so far!
Tonight I removed the throttle body, which was a bigger PITA than I imagined. A/C hoses were all up in my way. All the bolts were PFT but none of them broke. I gotta say I'm pretty proud of myself for not stripping out a screw head on the IACV. They were totally stuck... damn phillips head. I hit 'em with Blaster, stuck a long bit in, smacked it a few times with a hammer, let it sit for half an hour, and repeated a few times. Hammered my screwdriver into it, and they all finally broke free. When I removed it I cleaned it, examined it, and tested it (boiling pot of water, much like testing a thermostat). It was surprisingly clean, given the disgusting TB and plenum, and seemed to work fine. Sprayed the heck out of the spring and innards with throttle body cleaner, wiped it down, let it dry, installed a new o-ring, and put it back in. New TB gasket too. I did what I could with the TB... there were a couple of spots that were so bad I just gave up, but I took out a substantial amount of gunk. Same story with right inside the plenum. After I got everything hooked back up, I hit it with a can of Seafoam.
The idle is still rough, though it seems like it has a little bit more giddy up when accelerating. Idle symptoms seem to be lining up with EGR valve stuck open... cranks and runs perfect when cold, but once hot it will idle super low, sputter, and stall. It could also be a vacuum leak... I'm about halfway through replacing all the hoses, which so far have been in fairly poor shape. I'm actually taking it to an ex-certified technician who does work on the side to take a look and listen this Thursday. Gotta keep my amateur work in check.
I also jacked it up, pulled a wheel, and did a deep clean of one of the wheel wells. You'd understand if you saw this thing. I'll post some before/after shots here pretty soon. Scraped out about a half pound of Carolina clay from various joints, and the one wheel well looks black (instead of brown) now. Brake pads are OK, some pretty prolific grooves in the rotor and lots of oxidization in the breather ports. I'll probably just replace them when I do the pads. Gotta check the drum brakes soon.
Even though my thread title suggests this will no longer be a woods truck, I did take it out hunting last weekend. My spot was an hour drive each way on the highway, then some very light 4x4 on a dirt road. I also helped my mom take some old furniture to the dump. Truck did great... the CV joints sound like they're about to explode when the 4wd is engaged. Gotta get that taken care of some point fairly soon. Gotta decide between Napa and OEM.
I also decided that the driver's door dent is big enough to bother me. The seal isn't as good as I thought it was. Lots of road noise and rattling.
I'm hitting a financial wall for the time being, so lots of cleaning underneath in the coming weeks.
Last edited by Java Peddler; 01-09-2017 at 07:53 PM.
Nice job rescuing this truck. Where exactly is North Central FL? I'm in South Florida, Broward County...not many Yotas down here and no place to even get offroad. I used to drive up to Ocala, or hit Citrus & Croom quite a bit, haven't done either of those in years. At one time there was a decent FL crew on the TTORA FL board and we did some meetups, but that group fell apart. Anyhow, good to see a truck brought back to life, amazing what some simple cleaning can do.
Thanks for the comment. I'm currently up in Gainesville, grew up an hour southeast in the Ocala National Forest area. Some of my best memories as a kid are my dad taking me wheelin' in his CJ7 around there. Lots of good spots out there.
My girlfriend just got a job in Washington State, so we'll be relocating in the next few months. This means a lot of the build is about to drop a gear and get done more quickly than anticipated. I'll be doing the CV axles here in the next couple of weeks, and I've decided to get a new topper installed. There's some cancer creeping under the Rhino Liner in the bed, so I'll probably remove the liner myself and do some rough body work, then maybe have it re-lined before I put the topper on. We'll see how it looks.
Took it in to a friend of a friend who works on motorcycles, but spent 5 years as a Toyota tech. We didn't get anything nailed down, but he discovered that the timing doesn't retard when the diagnostic terminals are jumped. Looks like this could be indicative of a TPS maladjustment or malfunction. I broke down and ordered a multimeter so I can check wiring continuity and do a proper diagnostic on the sensor. He also quelled my suspicion of a bad EGR with a quick vacuum test. Speaking of that, I finished up the vacuum hoses. Only one left to go that I didn't have enough hose for... a bunch of them looked bad, so maybe that'll cure up my idle.
Only other news to report is I decided to drain the trans fluid and put in some new stuff. It's a little spooky on a very high mileage automatic, but I examined the old fluid on a paper towel before I did it, and it was pretty brown but didn't seem burnt. Decided to give it a go... wish me luck.
I'm also almost done mopping up sludge from the bottom of the block and front end parts. World of difference... pics tomorrow I swear.
The timing not changing with the jumper is really likely yo be the tps. I had the same problem and that was the fix, it also fixed some other issues too. Mine had a dead spot between 1/4 throttle and 1/2 open, which made for an interesting issue.
The timing not changing with the jumper is really likely yo be the tps. I had the same problem and that was the fix, it also fixed some other issues too. Mine had a dead spot between 1/4 throttle and 1/2 open, which made for an interesting issue.
Good work on the truck so far!
Did an adjustment fix the TPS or did you end up changing it?
logo finally installed, vacuum hoses finished (I actually did a LOT of cleaning right after this was taken)
this, believe it or not, is AFTER the first round of degreasing
This is where I stopped... three rounds of degreasing and scrubbing. Lots more to do, but I got most of the mud and oil out of there. Wiped a TON of oil off of stuff that you can't really take pictures of. Photos don't do justice to the amount of gunk I've pulled out from underneath this thing.
ordered CV axles today. Went with remanufactured from NAPA.
Idle is still the same (rough). i'm really thinking I've tracked it down to the TPS. I'll find out for sure tomorrow.
Last edited by Java Peddler; 01-16-2017 at 03:50 PM.
Little update... got one of the CV axles in. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't too hard, either. Just a pain in the butt when you're working with a sub-par floor jack. Lots of readjusting height and steering angle to get it to pop out and back in. It just barely cleared with the shock bottom disconnected. I used this as a rough guide: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-w-pix-144314/
Rented a torque wrench from O'Reillys do get all the flange nuts/bolts proper. Only a matter of time before I break down and buy one... I did have to invest in a breaker bar and 24" extension to get this done. It's hard not to feel kinda badass using that setup, even if it's 3/8" drive lol
I also replaced the broken corner lights and the left side broken headlight housing. I regret doing the housing because I didn't realize how big of a PITA it was to separate from the grille. I got it done, but just barely. Had to remove the headlight, which was a pain getting out and back in. One positive that came from all that was the headlight seal was totally rotten, so I resealed it with liquid gasket. Probably unnecessary, but it felt good. Anyway, got it all back together and then the damn corner light doesn't want to mate with the headlight housing. There are two screws that hold it to the body on the outside, then two clip things that holds it to the headlight housing. Not sure what to call 'em, pillar clips? They're supposed to mate just by shoving them together, but I was pushing hard enough to rock the truck back and forth and they still wouldn't go in. I ended up breaking one of the clips, which I was super sad about. Nothin' like breaking a brand new part. I finished up the install and drove it around with a 1/2" gap like a dog with its tail between its legs. I was just gonna leave it, but then I had a stroke of "duh" and pulled out the clip from the old one. Took all of 45 seconds to remove from the old broken piece and snap into the new one. Didn't feel as secure, but it looks just fine.
And last but not least, I installed a tailgate handle. This actually took some time because the surrounding metal was all kinds of bent up. Took some time with a redneck metal fab kit to get it "right." Wood block, hammers, channel locks, and needle nose ended up getting it lined up enough to work.
I removed the gnarled up valance panel because I got a new one, but I need a couple of bolts before I install it. She's still not much of a looker, but we're slowly making progress.
Last edited by Java Peddler; 01-26-2017 at 07:23 PM.
Ordered new stabilizer bar bushings and a $20 bluetooth stereo off of Amazon
My new right CV axle pops when turning hard, obviously at slow speed. Oddly enough, it is dead silent in 4wd. Might just be the nature of a remanufactured part. I thought about getting it warrantied, but at this point I'm just gonna move on to the next thing.
Gonna be doing some work with my Toyota tech buddy over these next few weeks... exhaust manifold gasket, timing, and getting advice on suspension parts. I'm considering replacing all the shocks and getting a leaf spring helper for my move across the country. I'm gonna have the tech look at it to help me make judgments on what sorts of linkages/bushings/joints I should look at replacing.
I adjusted the TPS with a multimeter, as per the instructions in the FSM. A little finicky to do with the TB still installed, but it's do-able. This immediately cleaned up my idle... no more stalling or stumbling when it's hot. I noticed the dashpot seems to be not functioning properly, might clean that out. It seemed to drive better overall, with a little more power, but it presented me with one new strange issue. After driving steady at about 45mph, when I eased off the gas, it decelerated in an "off/on" sort of way. Felt like I was giving it gas and letting off for about one second intervals. It stopped when I let off the gas a little more, and didn't do it again. I'm thinking that one of a few things is happening... 1) My TPS is bad, and it was adjusted in a way to compensate for it. Now that it's in proper adjustment, its dead spots are more obvious 2) I didn't nail the adjustment quite right (although all the ohm values were in proper parameters) or 3) Something else is going on with the throttle, and I need to do a full service on it. More to follow.
Last edited by Java Peddler; 01-29-2017 at 03:08 PM.
I'm really starting to think the TPS is bad. Throttle gets "lost" at one particular point when decelerating from 45-60+mph. Idle is still really good though, glad the stalling issue is gone.
The auto transmission has me worried when I think about driving it across the country loaded down with weight, so... I'm going to look at a w56-E transmission this weekend! The guy has all the clutch parts, shifters, support beam, and a bunch of other OEM parts in great shape out of his wrecked '94. Might even get some new body panels out of it... we'll see!
Oh and y'all are gonna hate the camper cap I'm putting on. I'm crunched for time before I gotta move, and the price was right! Lots of room, wired for lights, and it's dry minus one spot on each side under the front side windows. Sorry for the crap picture, it was dirty/moldy as hell so it might be for the best that you can't really see it. It came off a Nissan and doesn't quite fit. I'm gonna have a big U-shaped 1/4" steel plate made at a fab shop to close the gap at the front and get me a good seal. It looks a little wonky because the gap is fairly large between the cab and the front of the cap, but just avert your gaze if it really bothers you. lol
Last edited by Java Peddler; 02-10-2017 at 02:06 PM.
TPS adjustment by the book is just taking the slack out of the mechanical mating surfaces, really nothing more. Assuring the idle signal comes off with minimal throttle angle change. It can however be adjusted further, you want to adjust it such that at or near maximum it registers over four volts and when closed it is under one volt and the idle loop is closed..
If there are dirty spots on the resistive tracks it will drop the throttle angle signal received to the ECU to zero. It's not a resistor ladder like the VAFM, if it wears out in one spot it's toast, it needs to be a clean linear signal from closed to open otherwise it needs replaced or cleaned.
Here is a peek inside..
The bottom two tracks are the idle signal, the top two are the throttle angle (the little metal bits are what happens when you force one open instead of cutting the access panel off and desoldering it from the housing)
Your Google picture of the topper isn't showing, for whatever reason.. I will assume you're missing the big rubber gasket that goes between the truck cab and topper front? You can't just use a sheet to cover this gap it allows water and crap to enter from below and will muck up your rear cab window, and the topper window if you have one.
Your Google picture of the topper isn't showing, for whatever reason.. I will assume you're missing the big rubber gasket that goes between the truck cab and topper front? You can't just use a sheet to cover this gap it allows water and crap to enter from below and will muck up your rear cab window, and the topper window if you have one.
Is it working now? Damn Google Photos is so finicky... the URL format they use for images doesn't work on the uploader.
That's a good point about moisture creeping in. I've decided against the steel plate, and now I'm looking at just using weather stripping attached right below the topper window, angled forward and down so it drapes over the front of the bed, to keep the weather out.
On the TPS adjustment, thanks for your words -- it's an interesting component. I adjusted it with a volt meter per the FSM instructions. It was pretty far out of wack. Since then my idle is 100% cleaned up, but throttle cuts out at roughly 1/3 gas. Already ordered a new OEM TPS.
Revisiting the timing issue (don't remember if I mentioned this yet), the timing was not retarding when E1 and T1 diagnostic terminals were jumped. After doing some research (right here on Yotatech, of course), most agreed that this is a tell-tale sign of a bad or maladjusted TPS. Sure enough, after I adjusted it, the timing would retard and I was able to set it at 5deg. The timing was also way off. Runs SO well now, like a whole different truck. It actually has some gumption now... can't wait to drive it with the 5 speed!
Let me know if photos don't show up... Still can't wrap my head around Google Drive.
Job went well. Everything works, just have to wire the reverse light. Had to replace the driveshafts, crossmember and mount, and pedal assembly. Unbelievable how much the automatic bogs this motor down... feels like a whole different truck.
I was gonna replace all the carpet but I'm short on cash. I'm gonna go the cheap/easy route and get a grey vinyl or pleather sheet to cover up the shifter base.
Replaced the leaf springs, shocks, and stabilizer bar bolts&bushings as well. Leafs were a b***** and a half, glad that's over with.
Also getting a new topper. I hate this thing, not worth trying to fix that gap. I'm lucky it's been dry here lately.
More pics soooon.
EDIT: I do have a question for the gearing nerds.I can't wrap my head around what gear ratio I'm at now that I've swapped the transmission. 5sp transmission, stock automatic differential, stock 28" tires. I would guess I'm at 4.10 but I'm not sure if my differential changes it. Where am I at?
Last edited by Java Peddler; 04-25-2017 at 07:54 PM.
So on your gear ratio question, I guess I need some clarification. I mean, if you didn't swap your differentials, then your gear ratio did not change. The only thing that would be any different is I suppose the transmission ratios. The 5sp ratios from the MarlinCrawler website for the W56-E are: 1st 3.954, 2nd 2.141, 3rd 1.384, 4th 1.0, 5th .85, and R 4.091. If you had the A340 4sp automatic, the ratios were: 1st 2.804, 2nd 1.531,3rd 1.0, 4th .705, R 2.393
So your first gear in the W56 is much lower than with the automatic, if that is what you are asking. You can read your axle code from the door jamb sticker and it will tell you what your factory differential ratio was, assuming it has not been changed.
Beautiful truck Brother! I got myself the same truck, 93 Pickup DLX, but mine had the 3VZE V6 engine in it. We have about all the same problems, bad 02 sensor and leaks all around. Mine has always ran a little bit rough but these Yota's are indestructible. I take mine on trails a lot and it keeps up with Jeeps just fine, even though it's pretty much stock! Looks like your build is going great man, looking forward to more pictures!
01-07-2017, 06:03 AM
