1993 4R Build Thread
 

Originally on T4R but I spend significantly more time over here

When I first purchased it:
Attachment 208123


So I picked this truck up April of 2018 with some known issues

Truck:
1993 Sr5 4Runner 3VZE R150F 5Sp 4x4
Current mileage as of 5/23/2019 -- 271,XXXX

Issues I knew of, all parts Toyota OEM where specified

1.) Major electric gremlins involving wipers, rear wiper, rear window
THIS WAS THE WORST to troubleshoot -- In the end the relay in the wiper switch in the column was busted. Ended up getting a used working wiper stalk setup from ebay and swapped the boards because mine was in better shape. Took about 2 month to completely solve


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All together ready to go back in
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2.) Leaking oil -- suspected VCG
Combination --- the oil filter kept coming loose. Switched to toyota and I do my own changes. The VCG still leak but not horribly

3.) Rear pinion leaking
Took to toyota -- they fixed it

4.) This thing needed a tune up bad, it ran like ˟˟˟˟ and couldn't hold timing (it would pulse under a light) it needed Cap/Rotor, plugs, wires, timing, water pump (which exploded in my driveway) and more. I have done everything listed here, some pictures now

Timing belt had at LEAST another 2-3k miles on it (this was done Dec 2018 with the WP when it went)
Attachment 208126

This is an indication of everything else on the truck that you cannot see right away. It was a buried treasure of maintenance.

So Fast forward to now things that have been done:
Tune Up
New fan (not clutch) after it exploded, this required a new radiator as well.
New Rear OME Medium load springs
Billistein 4600's all around
New upper and Lower Japanese 555 Ball joints
New OME Torsion bars
New Energy Suspension Bushings all around (Control arms done still working on the rest)
Outer hub bearings repacked
New Front rotors
New front disks
Brake Bleed
Trans fluid changed to Redline MT90
Transfer Case flushed
Front diff flushed
New Fuel Filter
31x10.5x15 Falken Wildpeak AT3W (5)
ALIGNMENT (best thing yet I think)
Custom Sliders
CB Setup and Antenna setup in OEM antenna location

Now pictures:

After a nice Wash/Clay/Wax
Attachment 208127


I will let you determine what is going on here

Attachment 208128

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Die size for the torque arm in the UCA

Attachment 208131

Ohh Pretty -- assembled finally
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All the suspension bits finished, it is a bit more even now after they aligned it and set the suspension height and new custom sliders
Attachment 208133

Better pic of sliders
Attachment 208134

All the work besides the sliders and Rear pinion was done by me either outside in my parking spot or up in my Dad's heated shop. It's been a learning curve with lots more to go.

Future Plans:
Finish bushing replacement
Front Bumper/Winch
Gears/Lockers -- 4.88 Gears for 33in tires, rear ARB locker probably open front


This is so I can keep track of it and have one place to put it all. I spend the most time on here so I figured I'd put some history together. This will be a slow process for now hoping to get going on it when I get into a house with a Garage because eventually I would like to throw a 5vze in it.

Dug through my phone

From the Spring install, bump-stops were not longed for this world. If anyone has a solution for new bumps let me know:

Attachment 208113

Spring Comparison:
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Before:
Attachment 208115

After:
Attachment 208116

Nice picture from my parents driveway, rear springs in but the front is untouched:

Attachment 208117


How it flexes with no bumps, the rear sway bar is in and connected -- Without any of the front suspension work

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Some fresh tracks in a recent storm out here in CO --Current up to date picture as of this post
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The 4Runner is looking great so far! :great:

Thanks for sharing!

:safari:

Updoot
 

Minor update, getting ready for July 4th in Crested Butte

Starter began to fail, belived to be caused by the valve cover on the passenger side leaking oil onto it -- surprise surprise. I've had the VCGs sitting in my closet for months now not wanting to pull the plenum but got into it this weekend. It went smoothly minus some previous owner gems (shown in pictures). Only problem I have now are the crush washers for the cold start injector, sigh. So it's not leaking fuel that I can see but the truck is running like garbage down low and at low throttle again. My thoughts, it can't hold fuel pressure because the timing is fluctuating about 2 degress under a light. So I already ordered the two crush washers from toyota parts deal this weekend and I am checking my local dealership this morning. Fingers crossed this is the issue I didin't mess the TPS up when I removed the plenum with the TB attached.

On to pictures

Pictures of some of the vacuum/egr routing and the cold start injector :-(

FSM EGR Routing
Attachment 208052

Cold start injector
Attachment 208053

TB Side excuse the finger
Attachment 208054

Passenger side valve cover off
Attachment 208055

Who hurt youuuuu (gift from PO)
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The valve covers appear to not be leaking as of right now so I'm hoping the cold start injector crush washers fix my issues. I will be looking to grab a reman Denso starter from my local napa to throw in and possibly service/rebuild this one if it is a toyota denso unit. My hope is that the oil degraded the contacts or at least left it repairable because it was 100% fine then just started taking a few attempts to get the starter to turn. I get a single click and nothing.

Hope everyone had a good weekend!

Short update, crush washers on and torqued to spec no change in how bad it runs. Went back through all my spark plug cables and found at least 1 that was cracked from heat and probably shorting. These are Denso wires maybe 4-6 months old. Second set that did this, I will be going back through and checking routing etc again with a new set of NGK's (all I can get locally for now) to see if it at least smooths out.

Another minor update before getting back to work on it today, at some point it might be nice to drive it for awhile without having to fix something (modifications don't count haha).

So it's running again, stupid little things.
1.) All new NGK spark plug cables, had been using OEM Denso but I couldn't find them locally. I actually like the NGK wires/boots better than the Denso they had a nicer and tighter "snap" when I put them on and they fit better in the some of the smaller plug holes (cylinder 4 specifically)
2.) Removed each plug and re-gaped any that were off, and there were some that were so that's on me for not being thorough before putting the new ones in (I could have sworn i checked them with a gauge but so be it)
3.) Pulled EFI fuse for a reset

All that it's back to running how it was before I did the VCG with the added bonus of turning the heat on and not smelling burning oil.

Today/This weekends work
1.) replace starter with new Denso unit (sadly built in Mexico not Japan but it was all I could get on short notice), it is the 1.6kw cold weather package model. I ordered from the denso model on their website for this truck so fingers crossed it fits.
2.) replace wiring, the wiring at the battery is scary to say the least, with a tiny spliced wire providing power to the relay/fuse block on the passgenger side of the bay. I have heavier gauge new wire to run and new terminals to put on when I have the starter out.

I know this is pretty mild for now but the truck was pretty neglected when I first picked it up and I have a steep learning curve on some of these things since I do not want to shell out thousands for some of the work that it's needed. I'm in the process of saving for a house next year so I can have a garage to work on it in, that will lead to much more fun things like a 5VZ. But it will continue to get slowly built until then.

Thanks for looking and hope you have a great weekend!

So update as to the shenanigans this week.

Got everything replaced and put back together, fought with some melted plug wires for a bit, regapped my plugs and she ran good (great isn't something I can use for how this has ran since I bought it but it's way better).

I bled the clutch and took out some nasty nasty fluid, since it hasn't been shifting great. Dropped it off at a local shop and the mechanic I chatted with mentioned seals being an issue because of all the sediment I had in my fluid. I ordered a new aisin master/slave that arrived today. Currently waiting for a call to see if it was my lack of ability to not get air in the line or the master/slave need to be replaced.

I can't wait to just drive it and enjoy it...crested butte next weekend for some muddy fun hopefully.

Hope everyone is having a good week

Clutch master came out in pieces and had a ton of plan in it that was reducing my pedal travel significantly. That is fixed and it's a brand new truck that hasn't driven this well since i owned it. I still had more I was hoping to get gone but I"m happy with being able to take it and go play for the fourth.

Oof been a minute since I updated this thread. Not much going on, had reconstructive surgery on my shoulder this summer and still doing lots of PT and working on range of motion. Have no strength in my right arm so wrenching is on hold.

Truck needs to go in and have someone look at the blower, haven't been able to determine the root cause of it just quitting on me.

I've been tossing around what I want to prioritize on the truck and I drive a significant amount of mountain passes above 8k feet. The truck is an absolute dog up there, to the point it feels quick when I get back to the measily 5k I live at.

So it's either:
Regear to 4.88's, go 33's and keep the 3vze for another year or two (runs fine, burns oil shocker)
5vz swap -- would have to stay at 4.10's and 31's for a bit but the power would be nice.

It's basically which do I do first and which would be a bigger benefit first. I tossed around the idea of newer trucks that come with bigger motors (lots of downtime with surgery) but none of them really do it for me except a taco but that doesn't have the room. My current truck is in amazing shape for it's age and has some minor rust I need to have taken care of on the body (frame is solid). So instead of adding a car payment to my life again (no thanks) or starting over building something else I think the 5vz swap would resolve the real issues I have with the truck, power.

My current plan is to buy a house this spring with a garage and start collecting parts as soon as money allows. I'm single, no kids, and I work from home so I can work on the swap as I need to as long as I keep food around haha

I do have hopes of possibly adding SC to it if I can find a CL TRD SC for a reasonable price, keep it stock at first no underdriven pulley or 7th injector. I want reliability first and everything has to work like factory.

Just ramblings from someone who hasn't been able to get out and do anything for awhile. Back to self torture known as PT

Finally cleared for full activities as of Jan 1st....

activities resumed, had some fun up in the foothills this weekend finding some snow

Oh man, I forgot about this thread. Well I figured it's time for some updates!!

Things completed since that last post (2 years now!)
- all new energy suspension poly bushings in the rear end (wow what a difference)
- rear diff breather extension
- wired up a trailer harness
- depot H4 housings purchased with hella aftermarket harness for H4 bulbs. External fuses/relays and running directly off the battery only using the stock wiring for switching.
- New CV's, inner/outer tie roads and adjustment sleeves
- biggest update...5vz swap completed end of summer 2021. Purchased a DIY swap setup from toyonlyswaps. Cannot recommend them enough, process was fairly painless except having to pull the manifold off to replace the injector o-rings for a vacuum leak. It was basically the only maintenance item I didn't have them do when they had the motor in their shop before shipping it. I had all the seals replaced, timing, wp, etc etc. Completely worth it IMO
- OME steering stabalizer
- replaced super worn out shock bushings in the front because I over tightened the top nuts

Why did I swap it finally?
In the end it lost two cylinders coming home from MOAB over the high colorado passes. It was due to fouled plugs but the cause for the plugs being fouled was unknown to me. Everything seemed to check out until I pulled the motor and saw the crossthreaded plug in the pass rearmost cylinder. (5?) I knew it had bad threads, I had chased them twice to try and fix it but it was to the point the plug was barely firing and fouling horribly. Running it hard to get home from MOAB over the passes didn't do a 300k mile motor any favors. To give it credit, it did not overheat nor did I lose a drop of coolant. The 3vz had numerous oil leaks and was in need of a full refresh so instead, I upgraded.

Plans for this year:
- Regear for 33's and lock the front/rear with ARB lockers. I am still on the fense about locking the front but if I'm going to regear I feel like I mine as well
- I broke a rear control arm and finding aftermarket adjustables are impossible for this truck. (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ements-314418/) In the end optoffroad was willing to do the work but required new ends to be forged because the mounting width is just over 2.5in on these trucks and there isn't a readily available jonnhy joint for it. My plan is to build my own (have an electrician scheduled to come out next week to put in an outlet for a welder) and use a 2.36in width rod end with spacers to fit.

Videos from the swap
Work to prep for the 5vz: 5vz going in: Startup:
Some photos:


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...47636208b5.jpg
Completed swap
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...edf27e9b6e.jpg
Everything coming together
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...15f8ce03dd.jpg
scoop on
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...613fe385f0.jpg
How the swap was shipped to my local shop for me to pickup
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...8f2e5f4d61.jpg
the crooked spark plug

I have been having issues with the truck stalling under heavy electrical load since before I swapped the motors. Thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-load-314823/

just keeping here for historical purposes and hoping to do a better job of updates on this thread

Have you considered a big 3 upgrade? Replace the grounds from battery to frame, battery to motor, and the charge cable from alternator to battery? Do you run a lot of electronics on the vehicle?

~flart

Oh yes this was all done awhile then everything was completely redone when the new motor went in. If you check the linked thread you can see pictures of the COR for the fuel pump and how badly it was rusted. I have replaced it and finished up testing today to verify it was indeed fixed. I have posted in that thread as well to close it out. Thanks for the response!

Installed a catch can today that I had laying around just waiting to get some 11/32nd PCV hose. Currently mounted where I removed from old 3vz shenanigans against the firewall, I chopped up the bracket that was there from the factory a bit and it seemed to work perfectly for now.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e9a801a770.jpg
Both hoses run under the intake to and from factory locations
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3c13be9a07.jpg
where the can is mounted for now. Fits well and I can remove the bottom pretty easily

Some unrelated truck updates
Had two new circuits installed in the garage/shop one being for the welder that just arrived. Goal is to be able to build a set of rear upper control arms in a few months after lots of practice (and failing). Should be getting the rest of the welding safety gear today so I can start practicing in earnest.

Truck related stuff
Going to regear and lock it this spring when I go to a 33in tire. I am planning to just replace my 31s with a set of 33in wildpeaks, so 33x12.5x15. I need a new set of tires with different backspacing to fit so I was going to go with a set of procomp rock crawlers. 15x8 with 3.75in backspacing which should allow the 33's to clear most everything. My question is what are everyone's thoughts on these wheels? I've read good things but going from hub centric to lug centric has me slightly worried (probably for no reason) but there aren't any hub centric options for the toyota in a 15in wheel. I'm not rock crawling this thing but it will see moderate wheeling a few times a year with mild wheeling most of the year on the weekends.
Wheels: https://www.procompusa.com/product-s...black-97-5883/

If anyone is curious the diffs will be 4.88's with ARB lockers. Will be ordering an ARB compressor here within the next month or so and then installing that with an additional fuse box to power some accessories (pictures and some info to come as I get all those parts together). Plan to get the diffs from marlin when I have the monies ready to go in a few months but I want the air setup to be ready when I get them so I can just plumb it all during the diff install.

Small updates

First, I had notice the truck getting a little warm (208-210 degrees F) when climbing up some of the passes out here in colorado. While it won't wreck the motor it was a little warm for my liking, did some digging and apparently there's a jiggle valve on the thermostat for the 5vz that is supposed to be facing 6 o'clock instead of 12 o'clock. So picked up a bucket from HD to save all my brand new coolant (had a heater hose pop off a few weeks ago and had to refill a bunch) and went to work pulling the t-stat housing. Sure enough, jiggle valve was pointing to the 12 o'clock position as shown in the photo below. Thread link to one of the many threads talking about this: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...g-temp.587377/


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c093a66a99.jpg
Jiggle valve in the 12 o'clock position


The second part of this prevented me from testing it immediately. When I did the 5vz swap I had forgotten to put all the vacuum valves in for the ADD system. Temporarily I forced it to be engaged and went through all my boxes and found all the parts i need to get it working (thankfully I kept the valves). Was able to verify the vacuum actuator worked after draining all the diff fluid again and pulling the actuator off the front axle. I put all of the valves together (show in the photo below). Letting the RTV sit for the actuator and I will have it filled with fluid at some point today (been sitting over 12 hours at the time of this post with a space heater running near it)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...0c1c15ad40.jpg
ADD Vacuum valves

So update on the affects of the thermostat flip 180 degrees and making sure the jiggle your bits valve is in the 6 o'clock position. Holy crap, I never thought it could make that big of a difference.

Drove up to go skiing yesterday climbing from 5k up to almost 11k ft out here in Colorado. Normal driving temps on flat highway was around 204 degrees -- now it's 184-186. Climbing up the passes I'd regularly hit 208-210 degrees now it's 188 with 192 degrees being the max i hit pushing it in 5th gear at like 10k ft doing 75 MPH up a pass just to see how it did.

I'm both amazed and super happy this was such a simple fix.

It may have allowed some trapped air out of the system. Check you water level in the recovery tank when you get a chance, just in case. Sometimes, it's just a bubble hiding right at the gauge's coolant temp sensor, giving you a semi-false reading. You get that bubble out, suddenly, boom! Everything is normal again.

Glad it's doing so well for you. Keep it properly maintained, it's last you for a LONG time. Heck, both my 87 trucks are 35 years-ish, both running along very happily. I TRUST a well maintained Toyota, let me tell you.

Have fun!
Pat☺

So, at least beforehand, it shouldn't have had air left in it. It had been running for a few months with those temps at 200+. I spent a bunch of time bleeding it out etc when I first had the motor running so while it's definitely an option I expect it was fully bled since there hasn't been much change in the overflow res.

My dad has owned toyotas my entire life from 22R, to a 22RE, to his most recent 2rz all 2wd base model pickups and those all run forever with super minimal maintenance (your normal oil changes, brakes etc). Heck, I remember he had an OEM clutch last for 250+ thousand miles which blew my mind.

Thanks!