1992 Toyota 4x4 build up by solidaxle85
#22
#23
Registered User
I dont know how much mechanic work you wanna do but the 3.0 would be easy to replace, however the 3.4 would be on a whole different level both swapping and power and torque. Plus alot of electrical swap too. If your on a time frame and want to drive it NOW id just get the 3.0 and drive the hell out of it.
#24
I dont know how much mechanic work you wanna do but the 3.0 would be easy to replace, however the 3.4 would be on a whole different level both swapping and power and torque. Plus alot of electrical swap too. If your on a time frame and want to drive it NOW id just get the 3.0 and drive the hell out of it.
Yeah there are some other factors two i would LOVE to do the 3.4
but i dont have a shop my trucks outside, i also dont have to much mechanical experience though im not retarded, just havent had a broken vehicle to fix
this is basically a stater truck for me machincs wise
#26
Yeah i just found that site today lol when i was searching for an engine, theres
a guy about 330km's away from where i live that has a fresh block rebuilt with
no heads for 400.00$, or a 4runner parts truck with 215km on it for 500.00$ i
might just buy the 4runner and do a HG job when i pull it out
#28
I've been busy but i have taken the dash apart and the engine is ready to take out but i need to get it towed to my uncles shop first.
I am doing the 3.4 swap i have decided, I'm doing pricing and trying to find a donor vehicle i may just get the 3.4 from a auto wreckers and just by all the harness'
I am doing the 3.4 swap i have decided, I'm doing pricing and trying to find a donor vehicle i may just get the 3.4 from a auto wreckers and just by all the harness'
#30
Im buying the walbro pump and getting a new sender from toyota is what im thinking,
I have to go out of town for these parts its only an hour away but i don't know what they have in stock because they aren't on car-parts.com
I have to go out of town for these parts its only an hour away but i don't know what they have in stock because they aren't on car-parts.com
#32
I found a 1998 4runner with 370km on it still runs and is in good shape for 3grand
i don't know if it would be cheaper to go this way or to get the part individually from the auto wrecker
i don't know if it would be cheaper to go this way or to get the part individually from the auto wrecker
#33
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
You could find an engine on craigslist for a considerable amount cheaper, or from a u-pull it. But even then, thats also a gamble. But maybe a cheaper one. Hope this helps.
#35
So its been a while since i've posted have done much in the months its taken i'm doing this all in my driveway with Not great weather,
So i got its all stripped down to the block the block itself is rusty everywhere because before
i got the truck it sat for a couple months now with me it also sat i need some opinions
on the block itself
this is the left side
this is the block itself
cylinder #6 close up
So i got its all stripped down to the block the block itself is rusty everywhere because before
i got the truck it sat for a couple months now with me it also sat i need some opinions
on the block itself
this is the left side
this is the block itself
cylinder #6 close up
#37
Registered User
only a good machine shop and the depth of your wallet can determine the fate of that block. Use engnbldr.com to get good quality parts at a good price
#38
So i went and picked up an engine today,
800 bucks for a 3vze out of a 1993 t-100
While the engine is out what should i change on it ?
-Rear main
-Clutch
-Rear cam Seals
-Valve cover because its leaky
I know i have to which out the knock sensor because it's a different shape,
and i also have to switch out the sensor pod on the back, and the motor mounts
But other than that could some tell me what else i need? So i can drop the motor and plug and play
Any help appreciated thanks!
800 bucks for a 3vze out of a 1993 t-100
While the engine is out what should i change on it ?
-Rear main
-Clutch
-Rear cam Seals
-Valve cover because its leaky
I know i have to which out the knock sensor because it's a different shape,
and i also have to switch out the sensor pod on the back, and the motor mounts
But other than that could some tell me what else i need? So i can drop the motor and plug and play
Any help appreciated thanks!
#39
Registered User
well, I would check any and all sensors, and check the timing belt components while its out. I will also resurface the flywheel and any of the small coolant hoses at the back of the engine. good luck and post pictures
#40
Yeah im going to post pictures tommorrow. I just wanted a parts list for me to pickup/order parts tommorrow...
get it all clean first because the engine leaked oil everywhere, Lol.
get it all clean first because the engine leaked oil everywhere, Lol.