1986 4runner build up sas/chevy spring swap
#21
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I have been noticing that too, people ask if I am going to paint it, but the original paint job is pretty rare, especially with the stripes. I've considered taping around the stripes and then painting them black. The problem with the stripes on there now is that every time I wax it, the wax sticks to the stripes and doesn't come out for a long time. The fiberglass looks really good, going to consider that with mine, especially high clearance rear quarters rather than do fender flares like the front. I'm located in Richmond and Newport News. Came down that way to do the crabtree falls/shoe creek trail a few weeks ago and had a blast.
#22
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It's been a while since Ive posted something up, but there are quite a few updates. Last post I had purchased the rock assault front axle housing from LRO and it finally showed up last week. The new axleshafts by trail gear that fit the housing finally came in so now I have a lifetime warranty on both the housing and axleshafts and birfields. Those came in Monday so they were able to start the rebuild yesterday. HOWEVER, the vented rotors that come with the SAS eliminator kit WILL NOT WORK with the rock assault housing which I was not aware of. They called me up this morning and told me about this issue which surprised me being that LRO didn't inform me of this. Anywho, LRO was very accomodating and are sending the correct ones so the SAS can finally be done. I am unable to do this swap myself and rebuild because I don't know how to weld and I got called up to active duty for a deployment and have to work 1.5 hours away which sucks because I really wanted this experience. Anywho, by next week the swap should be done with the rock assault hosuing as well as the chevy spring swap. They told me that swapping out the rear third member itself would cost around 300? That sounded ridiculous to me and told them I could do it myself, which brings me to my next question: what sort of adhesive/sealant would you recommend to install the third member? And what is the best way to bleed the brakes once the rear axleshafts are put back in?
Another thing I have noticed just yesterday was an antifreeze leak where the engine meets the tranny. Any ideas on what this could be? Hopefully not a cracked block? Everywhere above the leak is dry. Luckily it is not a huge leak but it is pretty annoying especially when something is leaking and you don't know what it is. Could it also be a freeze plug?
Another thing I have noticed just yesterday was an antifreeze leak where the engine meets the tranny. Any ideas on what this could be? Hopefully not a cracked block? Everywhere above the leak is dry. Luckily it is not a huge leak but it is pretty annoying especially when something is leaking and you don't know what it is. Could it also be a freeze plug?
#23
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For the third member use a gasket; thats what i did on my 4:88 install. Got a couple thousand miles on them and not a single leak.
Refer to the manual for bleeding. I use an empty bottle with a hose attached to it and the other end to the bleeder. Then just loosen the bleeder and pump the pedal keeping an eye on the fluid level. Works great for me.
Refer to the manual for bleeding. I use an empty bottle with a hose attached to it and the other end to the bleeder. Then just loosen the bleeder and pump the pedal keeping an eye on the fluid level. Works great for me.
#24
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Excellent, thanks for the good info on the third member and bleeding.
This is an update to the progress I have so far.
Total lift from 5" HD Trail gear ifs eliminator kit- 12"...with rock assault housing up front
The rear chevy springs I had came no where near the lift I now had for the front. An additional 7" of block was needed in the rear under the 63" chevs. New 6" lifted chev springs are on their way.
Nice pic of the rock assault housing all hung up
out with the old, in with the new
sizing up what size tires would be good. These are 37" Humvee tires. From the rear they look like pizza cutters and the guy wants 185 for them each....a little pricey in my own opinion. I'm using the stock v6 4.88 rear thirds in both front and back axles so looking to do 37s or 38s. Have been convinced will need to change to 5.29s but thats more $$$. Wasn't expecting 12" of lift so am having to go bigger with EVERYTHING =(
some used 37" procomp tires they had in the shop. Guy wants 200 for all 4
This is where we found antifreeze leaking from before I took it in. Any ideas and what it could be? Freeze plug?
42 swampers....look so delicious but again....new gearing and potentially lots of breakage including new engine.
37" procomps up front, believe they are 13.5" wide
picture of HMMV tire in the rear and 37" procomp up front. Looks good...
things that came up unexpectedly...chevy springs not matching 12" lift, vented rotors originally didnt fit rock assault housing but drilled extra hole so now they fit. Solid axle brake calipers didn't work on vented rotors, but stock IFS calipers did. Original solid front axle to be used for swap SLIGHTLY BENT, front driveshafts will need to be specially ordered for this amount of lift. Hasn't been ordered yet, but will be taking measurements sometime next week when we can get all 4 tires on the ground.
BTW- anyone have any 5.29 gears/ third member setups or 38" tires?
This is an update to the progress I have so far.
Total lift from 5" HD Trail gear ifs eliminator kit- 12"...with rock assault housing up front
The rear chevy springs I had came no where near the lift I now had for the front. An additional 7" of block was needed in the rear under the 63" chevs. New 6" lifted chev springs are on their way.
Nice pic of the rock assault housing all hung up
out with the old, in with the new
sizing up what size tires would be good. These are 37" Humvee tires. From the rear they look like pizza cutters and the guy wants 185 for them each....a little pricey in my own opinion. I'm using the stock v6 4.88 rear thirds in both front and back axles so looking to do 37s or 38s. Have been convinced will need to change to 5.29s but thats more $$$. Wasn't expecting 12" of lift so am having to go bigger with EVERYTHING =(
some used 37" procomp tires they had in the shop. Guy wants 200 for all 4
This is where we found antifreeze leaking from before I took it in. Any ideas and what it could be? Freeze plug?
42 swampers....look so delicious but again....new gearing and potentially lots of breakage including new engine.
37" procomps up front, believe they are 13.5" wide
picture of HMMV tire in the rear and 37" procomp up front. Looks good...
things that came up unexpectedly...chevy springs not matching 12" lift, vented rotors originally didnt fit rock assault housing but drilled extra hole so now they fit. Solid axle brake calipers didn't work on vented rotors, but stock IFS calipers did. Original solid front axle to be used for swap SLIGHTLY BENT, front driveshafts will need to be specially ordered for this amount of lift. Hasn't been ordered yet, but will be taking measurements sometime next week when we can get all 4 tires on the ground.
BTW- anyone have any 5.29 gears/ third member setups or 38" tires?
#26
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cool job on the front end, the rear blocks, well that's not good and you may what to do something else with the rear.
This is my rear with 35' and no blocks.
I'm not a fan of blocks in the rear end, however, my F350 has blocks from the factory
This is my rear with 35' and no blocks.
I'm not a fan of blocks in the rear end, however, my F350 has blocks from the factory
#27
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Isn't the shackle angle on the front springs a little off? Should be 45* but looks to be 90*?
Also, how do you get 12" of lift using 5" front springs?
I'm no expert but these numbers don't add up. And the blocks on the rear springs....no!
Also, how do you get 12" of lift using 5" front springs?
I'm no expert but these numbers don't add up. And the blocks on the rear springs....no!
#28
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I really hope they settle a little. Here are some pics of my new wheel/tire setup mounted on the front. I bought some used procomps 37" for 200 bucks for all four and then some 18x10 moto metal M0961 rims. Chrome really brings out the shocks I think.
New problem: need a new custom driveshaft up front and said I may need to buy a new transfer case as well. Does anyone have any experience with this? Is a transfer case really needed or can I just get a custom driveshaft?
Specs for the front: 31" flange to flange, 12" total lift. Was told to call Tom Woods driveshaft. Will probably do a dual transfer case setup while I'm down there tearing stuff apart. Anywho, here's some pics.
New superlift 6" lifted chevy springs for the rear. Still needed to throw a small block underneath =/
Still have 63" chevy springs for sale and complete IFS system from the front nothing wrong with it at all.
New problem: need a new custom driveshaft up front and said I may need to buy a new transfer case as well. Does anyone have any experience with this? Is a transfer case really needed or can I just get a custom driveshaft?
Specs for the front: 31" flange to flange, 12" total lift. Was told to call Tom Woods driveshaft. Will probably do a dual transfer case setup while I'm down there tearing stuff apart. Anywho, here's some pics.
New superlift 6" lifted chevy springs for the rear. Still needed to throw a small block underneath =/
Still have 63" chevy springs for sale and complete IFS system from the front nothing wrong with it at all.
#29
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I didn't really have a choice on the blocks as faras the amount of lift the chevy springs provide. Next week when the rear gets all bolted up, I will be able to tell if I really need them or not. I hate using the blocks so we will see what happens.
The IFS kit I used was a 5" HD kit. Not sure how it came to be 12". Also the rock assault housing added some lift from the axleshaft stand point because they are meant to not be centered. I also couldnt use the high steer kit that came with the kit. There were custom ones that had to be used with the rock assault housing. Somehow or another 12" came out of it. Just the solid axle swap itself usually adds on a few inches. I'm hoping that the shackle angle will settle a little eventually. I am going to mention that to the guys when I go in next.
The IFS kit I used was a 5" HD kit. Not sure how it came to be 12". Also the rock assault housing added some lift from the axleshaft stand point because they are meant to not be centered. I also couldnt use the high steer kit that came with the kit. There were custom ones that had to be used with the rock assault housing. Somehow or another 12" came out of it. Just the solid axle swap itself usually adds on a few inches. I'm hoping that the shackle angle will settle a little eventually. I am going to mention that to the guys when I go in next.
#30
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I would swap the 5' springs for some 3' and go for the duel cases. A high pinion third for the front will also help the drive shaft angle. She sits way too tall even with some 42's. LOL
#31
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lol too late for the high pinion third up front. I've got the v6 third with stock 4.88 front and rear. Going to see if I can find a rear driveshaft to cut down and fit up front with the longer u-joints so they will flex nice without too much vibration. 42's looked great but 37s give it the right look that I wanted and still get plenty of flex =D
#32
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I've discovered that the v6 4.88 carrier and assembly will swap directly into a high pinion housing as long as the v6 third was not an e-locker so I am in luck. You were exactly right about the high pinion up front. I'm hoping that it will solve my issue with the front driveshaft. Looks like I will be doing a dual transfer case in the future before i get the front driveshaft made up.
#34
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just got it back yesterday, rides like a champ, a little shakey up front so i need a custom track bar made and still no driveshaft. plan to do that when i get back from deployment because im going to switch to a high pinion up front. still need steps to get in it and a few other things but happy to have it now.
if you need some parts, i still have a few things i didnt use like wheel spacers, u bolt kit, lockright locker for v6 housing and other odds and ends that could save you some $$$
#36
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thanks, much appreciated! btw....no blocks whatsoever in the rear. The 7" of block they had was more for measuring purposes to match the front and once they got the new springs in, there was maybe a 1" block to match the height up front but took it out and still rides like a champ.
#38
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they took a leveler to it on the ends and it was off by a few degrees. When they told me it was bent I found out a few things:
toyota axles are really soft metal
it would have cost just as much to bend it back as it would to purchase another axle and they would have had to rebuild the axle and MOUNT it while it was bent
After total labor on welding and cost of axle was roughly $300 and for twice that I bought the rock assault housing which is a stronger metal and has a lifetime warranty...so for me the rock assault housing was well worth the extra money
toyota axles are really soft metal
it would have cost just as much to bend it back as it would to purchase another axle and they would have had to rebuild the axle and MOUNT it while it was bent
After total labor on welding and cost of axle was roughly $300 and for twice that I bought the rock assault housing which is a stronger metal and has a lifetime warranty...so for me the rock assault housing was well worth the extra money
#39
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they took a leveler to it on the ends and it was off by a few degrees. When they told me it was bent I found out a few things:
toyota axles are really soft metal
it would have cost just as much to bend it back as it would to purchase another axle and they would have had to rebuild the axle and MOUNT it while it was bent
After total labor on welding and cost of axle was roughly $300 and for twice that I bought the rock assault housing which is a stronger metal and has a lifetime warranty...so for me the rock assault housing was well worth the extra money
toyota axles are really soft metal
it would have cost just as much to bend it back as it would to purchase another axle and they would have had to rebuild the axle and MOUNT it while it was bent
After total labor on welding and cost of axle was roughly $300 and for twice that I bought the rock assault housing which is a stronger metal and has a lifetime warranty...so for me the rock assault housing was well worth the extra money
#40
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no problem!, if you need any parts, i have some extra laying around that came with the eliminator kit that wouldnt work with the rock assault housing and other things...have wheel spacers, u bolt flip kit for the rear for a 63" chevy spring swap, I still have the 63" springs as well because i needed lifted ones and some other odds and ends, but if you need anything let me know