cmpete's 1984 SR5 XtraCab Build-Up Thread
#1
cmpete's 1984 SR5 XtraCab Build-Up Thread
This is my first Yota, and my first major automotive adventure!
Allow me to introduce "The Truck Formerly Known As 'Hoss'". He's a 1984 Pickup 4WD XtraCab SR5 with 5-speed M/T 22r, Warn front locking hubs, Warn front bumper, 2" leaf springs, dual front shocks, and a magical 328k miles on the clock. His former owner informed me this is not his original 22r, but has lived in a barn for the last several months due to the block crack which he mercifully JB Welded...Hoss also came with a supposedly good 22r in the bed as well as a Knuckle Rebuild kit, two new rotors, and extra set of heads, new drive shaft bearing, and a few other odds and ends.
Hoss will start and idle, but his battery is completely dead, so he needs help there. My first goal is to Frankenstein-rebuild the two 22r's into a working truck that will pass emissions and be a suitable daily driver. Once that's done, we'll talk about enhancements/upgrades. Oh, and I should probably get the rust problem addressed quickly too.
From what I can tell this is also original paint, interior and just about everything else--that's why I couldn't pass on Hoss. Sure, he needs work, but that's the point, right?
The little log was a bonus!
Allow me to introduce "The Truck Formerly Known As 'Hoss'". He's a 1984 Pickup 4WD XtraCab SR5 with 5-speed M/T 22r, Warn front locking hubs, Warn front bumper, 2" leaf springs, dual front shocks, and a magical 328k miles on the clock. His former owner informed me this is not his original 22r, but has lived in a barn for the last several months due to the block crack which he mercifully JB Welded...Hoss also came with a supposedly good 22r in the bed as well as a Knuckle Rebuild kit, two new rotors, and extra set of heads, new drive shaft bearing, and a few other odds and ends.
Hoss will start and idle, but his battery is completely dead, so he needs help there. My first goal is to Frankenstein-rebuild the two 22r's into a working truck that will pass emissions and be a suitable daily driver. Once that's done, we'll talk about enhancements/upgrades. Oh, and I should probably get the rust problem addressed quickly too.
From what I can tell this is also original paint, interior and just about everything else--that's why I couldn't pass on Hoss. Sure, he needs work, but that's the point, right?
The little log was a bonus!
#2
Well, I've done some cleaning up and poking around.
I added some distilled water to the battery and charged it up overnight, it seems to hold a charge pretty well. My dad and I drove the truck around the block--sort of. It would go for a bit, make some sad knocking sounds and then die as it tried to idle. The battery must be pretty strong because we had to restart 7-8 times in order to make it back to the garage! Needless to say, this beast has some serious issues.
I've been doing a lot of research, trying to figure out all that's missing to smog this engine--I'm getting closer! I've been PM'ing around Yotatech for emissions sticker photos, and live4soccer7 responded saying he had all the equipment from his 84 that he de-smoged. Perfect! I just got that box last weekend and it looks like some great parts to use. I haven't had the chance to test them all according to the FSM, but I'll do that soon. Thanks!
I got the donor motor up on the stand and cleaned up a bit, plus pulled the Air Cleaner off the old cracked 22r that's in place. That's when I made a realization. I'm not sure whether it's good or bad, but definitely not great. My donor block is a 1985+ (flying saucer on the side, pear shaped exhaust ports) but the existing cracked block is a 1983-1984 (square intake port, round exhaust ports). Then I double checked my extra head...crap it's an 83-84, not a 85+. Considering my only good block is 85+, I need to source as many 85+ parts as possible, and now I don't have a second head to pirate parts from. Also, there won't be as much free part exchanges from the cracked block to the donor. Crap.
Anyone know of any good resources as to what IS interchangeable between 22r blocks? I can find plenty about what's NOT
I added some distilled water to the battery and charged it up overnight, it seems to hold a charge pretty well. My dad and I drove the truck around the block--sort of. It would go for a bit, make some sad knocking sounds and then die as it tried to idle. The battery must be pretty strong because we had to restart 7-8 times in order to make it back to the garage! Needless to say, this beast has some serious issues.
I've been doing a lot of research, trying to figure out all that's missing to smog this engine--I'm getting closer! I've been PM'ing around Yotatech for emissions sticker photos, and live4soccer7 responded saying he had all the equipment from his 84 that he de-smoged. Perfect! I just got that box last weekend and it looks like some great parts to use. I haven't had the chance to test them all according to the FSM, but I'll do that soon. Thanks!
I got the donor motor up on the stand and cleaned up a bit, plus pulled the Air Cleaner off the old cracked 22r that's in place. That's when I made a realization. I'm not sure whether it's good or bad, but definitely not great. My donor block is a 1985+ (flying saucer on the side, pear shaped exhaust ports) but the existing cracked block is a 1983-1984 (square intake port, round exhaust ports). Then I double checked my extra head...crap it's an 83-84, not a 85+. Considering my only good block is 85+, I need to source as many 85+ parts as possible, and now I don't have a second head to pirate parts from. Also, there won't be as much free part exchanges from the cracked block to the donor. Crap.
Anyone know of any good resources as to what IS interchangeable between 22r blocks? I can find plenty about what's NOT
#4
Okay folks, time some specific questions...
I have the following major parts (all 22R):
85+ long block (minus the valve cover...maybe)
8? valve cover
83-84 head
83-84 complete engine (minus smog kit) with cracked block
How do I identify which year the valve cover hails from? Will it fit all the heads? Am I correct in assuming that most of the other major components will work if I move them from the 84 engine to the 85 (i.e. distributor, carb + intake manifold)? I'm seeing a shape difference in the exhaust ports: this means I need new headers, right? Should I go back to stock headers on the 85 or is there something better to go to (budget needs to be low)?
I have the following major parts (all 22R):
85+ long block (minus the valve cover...maybe)
8? valve cover
83-84 head
83-84 complete engine (minus smog kit) with cracked block
How do I identify which year the valve cover hails from? Will it fit all the heads? Am I correct in assuming that most of the other major components will work if I move them from the 84 engine to the 85 (i.e. distributor, carb + intake manifold)? I'm seeing a shape difference in the exhaust ports: this means I need new headers, right? Should I go back to stock headers on the 85 or is there something better to go to (budget needs to be low)?
#5
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The 84 and older are the old style blocks and the 85 an newer are a newer style block. You need to figure out which one you want to use. Either will work. They look the same but there is actually a lot of differences. The timing covers are different heights just to get you pointed in the right direction and to let you know of some of the differences.
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#8
I did a test fit and I'm 98% sure the valve cover I have will fit.
Still have an open question about the possibility of swapping the intake manifold from the 83-84 to the 85+ heads. Anyone?
Still have an open question about the possibility of swapping the intake manifold from the 83-84 to the 85+ heads. Anyone?
#9
I sent you a pm, but here is the picture again just in case.
#10
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85+ is the Laser Block. Has the Peanut on the Side to Identify it. I have done tons of parts/ carb to efi swaps between these years of blocks (85+). And I believe that the cylinder heads are 86+ are all the same. Some of the older ones can be a little different if in not mistaken.
Someone please chime in if Im incorrect on the CYL head info.
Someone please chime in if Im incorrect on the CYL head info.
#12
Thanks! I should have mentioned that mine is a 22R RN FED, that's 22R RN CAL (California Emissions) so it's not the right sticker, but I really appreciate the gesture! I think I misspoke, I need the vacuum diagram as well, not just the emissions control info. My bad two times.
Yeah, I gathered that much as well. I am trying to figure out if I can use the intake and exhaust manifolds from my non-Laser Block 22r.
85+ is the Laser Block. Has the Peanut on the Side to Identify it. I have done tons of parts/ carb to efi swaps between these years of blocks (85+). And I believe that the cylinder heads are 86+ are all the same. Some of the older ones can be a little different if in not mistaken.
Someone please chime in if Im incorrect on the CYL head info.
Someone please chime in if Im incorrect on the CYL head info.
#13
Bruce from PartsDinosaur has a 22r/22re identification page, but it didn't answer my manifold reuse question. A quick email to him and *BAM* I have an answer within a few minutes! Excellent customer service! (And I haven't even bought anything yet!)
The result:
My late model donor block (identified by the little flying saucer on the lower driver's side) and is stamped with 22R (Not with 22RE which is EFI). If this is accurate, the intake manifold from my 83-84 22R should be a match. The pear-shaped exhaust ports on my late model head will most likely not line up with the round ports on my 83-84 22R exhaust manifold, but the bolt pattern and positioning may be sufficient to mate up (but not recommended).
tl;dr - I need to find a stock 22R exhaust manifold and maybe a downpipe too. Anyone?
Last edited by cmpete; 09-30-2013 at 01:25 PM.
#14
I think I've found a few lines on an exhaust manifold.
Last night I started tearing down the donor block (carefully) to start checking and cleaning parts. I'm going for a full rebuild. Being OCD, I wanted to remove all the studs from the head before taking it off (mostly because they were ugly rusted and some were pretty severely bent). All the intake studs came out with the put two nuts on, turn one against the other trick. Exhaust studs were a but harder to get out--didn't seem like any were counter threaded (these I just used vice grips to hold on to the smooth portion of the stud and turn CCW to remove).
All except for one:
This little guy was the first exhaust stud I tried with the 2 nut trick (vise grips weren't doing anything) and I snapped the stud below flush into the head!
It looks like either the wrong size was used or it was counter threaded, or something. How do I get this bolt out? Judging by the size of the other matching studs, it can't be more than 3/8" to 1/2" long.
Last night I started tearing down the donor block (carefully) to start checking and cleaning parts. I'm going for a full rebuild. Being OCD, I wanted to remove all the studs from the head before taking it off (mostly because they were ugly rusted and some were pretty severely bent). All the intake studs came out with the put two nuts on, turn one against the other trick. Exhaust studs were a but harder to get out--didn't seem like any were counter threaded (these I just used vice grips to hold on to the smooth portion of the stud and turn CCW to remove).
All except for one:
This little guy was the first exhaust stud I tried with the 2 nut trick (vise grips weren't doing anything) and I snapped the stud below flush into the head!
It looks like either the wrong size was used or it was counter threaded, or something. How do I get this bolt out? Judging by the size of the other matching studs, it can't be more than 3/8" to 1/2" long.
Last edited by cmpete; 10-04-2013 at 06:25 AM.
#15
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I found the answer!
Bruce from PartsDinosaur has a 22r/22re identification page, but it didn't answer my manifold reuse question. A quick email to him and *BAM* I have an answer within a few minutes! Excellent customer service! (And I haven't even bought anything yet!)
The result:
My late model donor block (identified by the little flying saucer on the lower driver's side) and is stamped with 22R (Not with 22RE which is EFI). If this is accurate, the intake manifold from my 83-84 22R should be a match. The pear-shaped exhaust ports on my late model head will most likely not line up with the round ports on my 83-84 22R exhaust manifold, but the bolt pattern and positioning may be sufficient to mate up (but not recommended).
tl;dr - I need to find a stock 22R exhaust manifold and maybe a downpipe too. Anyone?
Bruce from PartsDinosaur has a 22r/22re identification page, but it didn't answer my manifold reuse question. A quick email to him and *BAM* I have an answer within a few minutes! Excellent customer service! (And I haven't even bought anything yet!)
The result:
My late model donor block (identified by the little flying saucer on the lower driver's side) and is stamped with 22R (Not with 22RE which is EFI). If this is accurate, the intake manifold from my 83-84 22R should be a match. The pear-shaped exhaust ports on my late model head will most likely not line up with the round ports on my 83-84 22R exhaust manifold, but the bolt pattern and positioning may be sufficient to mate up (but not recommended).
tl;dr - I need to find a stock 22R exhaust manifold and maybe a downpipe too. Anyone?
#16
I decided to move on, get the head off, and deal with the stuck bolt later.
Oh, and I picked up an exhaust manifold and downpipe, but I peeked at the exhaust system again and realized that when the ceramic headers on the truck were installed, they removed the cat and the bolt flanges. Grrr. Well, I'll have to figure that out.
I need to measure the block and cylinders and head for warpage and such, but for now, here's some shots of the valves, cylinders and old head gasket. Nothing really stands out to me as bad, just dirty. Any thoughts?
Oh, and I couldn't get the rocker arm assembly off--it's lifted up on one side, but not the other--is there a trick? The FSM says pry bar, but I was scared.
Oh! And some of the head bolts came out really oily, and some had this magnetized corrosion--I thought it was just the two on the exhaust and some on the intake side of the block that caused this, but I wasn't sure.
Oh, and I picked up an exhaust manifold and downpipe, but I peeked at the exhaust system again and realized that when the ceramic headers on the truck were installed, they removed the cat and the bolt flanges. Grrr. Well, I'll have to figure that out.
I need to measure the block and cylinders and head for warpage and such, but for now, here's some shots of the valves, cylinders and old head gasket. Nothing really stands out to me as bad, just dirty. Any thoughts?
Oh, and I couldn't get the rocker arm assembly off--it's lifted up on one side, but not the other--is there a trick? The FSM says pry bar, but I was scared.
Oh! And some of the head bolts came out really oily, and some had this magnetized corrosion--I thought it was just the two on the exhaust and some on the intake side of the block that caused this, but I wasn't sure.
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