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1985 Toyota 4runner 22re automatic "the rotten apple" build-up

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Old 08-05-2013, 12:05 AM
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1985 Toyota 4runner 22re automatic "the rotten apple" build-up

I bought an 1985 toyota 4runner 22re automatic sfa for $1600 206,000k miles, yes I overpaid but i wanted it... Rough interior, rust on rear quarter panels, some dings. Rear power window still works!
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took it out for a little stock flexing
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since then I ripped out the nasty carpet and will be redoing it, new radio hooked up, the head gasket blew about 500 miles after i bought it and i am currently doing a full rebuild, engine came out today after much frustration and a couple stuck 17mm bolts on the upper bell housing more pictures to come later
Old 08-05-2013, 09:14 AM
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engine pulled

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Old 08-05-2013, 09:22 AM
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when I removed the intake manifold to get out that lifeline bundle of wires a mix of coolant and oil came dumping out of it.
-Im looking at lift kits. Any opinions on the procomp 4inch kit? hows it ride and flex? and im open to any lift ideas. I can do a decent amount of fabrication, have a friend with a welder and plasma cutter.
-also looking for ideas on the interior, im thinking about replacing all the panels with steal or aluminum, maybe diamond plate steal or aluminum. -also does anyone have ideas for a custom front plate bumper with a winch mount inside of the bumper?

i'm open to anything, want to make this a badass rig

Last edited by dropzone; 10-30-2013 at 11:03 PM. Reason: edited for clarity
Old 08-16-2013, 02:31 PM
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Hey, hows the rebuild coming along? I have spent most of the summer working on my 4runner. I'm about ready to starting hitting trails though!
Old 08-21-2013, 08:53 AM
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the best flex for your $ would be to go with a set rears up front and some 63" chevys in the rear. depending on how you put it together you should end up at about 4" of lift.
Old 08-26-2013, 04:47 PM
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i am doing the RUF lift and got 88 4runner rears to put up front and eventually ill get some chevy 63s for the rear. riight now the engine is back in and bolted up but wont turn over, i got a new starter and i just dont know whats going on with it. also my fpr was peeing fuel everywhere and apparently its broken. I went to the auto parts store and they dont have the right one. apparently my 4runner was made pre 10/84 and the fuel pressure regulator is different than after 10/84. I cant find one anywhere for it. any ideas on where too look? i want this thing running already.
Old 09-09-2013, 07:51 PM
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i got the fuel pressure DAMPER was the key word to finding the right one. so now it runs, i adjusted valve clearance and stuff but it has ZERO power. when its cold i can go like 30 down the street and its way underpowered, once it warms up i can't even get up the mini sloped curb into my driveway. any ideas? also there is a blue plug that goes somewhere around the intake manifold but i can't figure out where is goes to. it leaks oil like crazy again but i think i can fix that by just tightening the valve cover a little bit more. but currently its still not driveable as i cant even get into my driveway once warm
Old 09-10-2013, 05:16 AM
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Great find!! I dont think you over paid at all. You have made alot of progress so far. Keep up the good work.
Old 10-28-2013, 01:40 PM
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so this morning it decided to crap out on me again and leak over a gallon of coolant and overheat, im going to fix that leak and any others i can find and send it on its way down the road, ill get a different one when i have the money as a project. so if anyone in colorado wants my 4runner its for sale!
Old 10-30-2013, 10:25 PM
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Hey tim, hate to hear about your problems. Did you have the head checked when you had it out last time. Sounds like you have a cracked head or warped head. That could lead to most of your problems. No need to pull the motor again. Just pull the head off and while your there check your timing. That could lead to loss of power as well. Best of luck to you. Any questions you have I hope to help, and if I can't answer it I have an endless supply of toyo nuts a phone call away. These fuel injected motors are the way to go. If you ever blow a head gasket on them there is usually another reason causing it. "over heat causing the head to warp" "over heat and fill it up while its still hot causing a cracked head". My best advice would be to pull the head and have it checked along with getting it decked. Always use new gaskets going back together. Valve cover gasket too. Don't over tighten the bolts use your manual if you are by yourself. If you don't have a manual "get one" it will help more than we ever could.
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