troyjmueller

I was going through some of my old files, and stumbled upon some files related to my most 'custom' project.

I haven't been real big on the 4wd scene, though I have been hobbieing with vehicles for a while.

I got spoiled where I work, with a towing outfit, and decided that I get enough 'project vehicles' that I really don't want to mess around with trailers, ramps, tow ropes and buddies, or tow-dollies.

I also realized that I didn't want to have a vehicle that might get a maximum of 10 mpg, either. So, the birth of this project. I got the Idea from a friend, who was going to build a flat-bed car hauller from a Toyota RV (which I traded for, and is now a part of my collection; Still an RV). This is the second revision on the theme.

The first version involved a 1978 Toyota EZ-RYDER RV Shell/Chassis Tandem Axle with a Cab/Drivetrain Transplant from a 1976 SR-5 Pick-UP, which I may post another thread on if there is any interest.

I call it 'LONG-ASS II'

So, here goes:

troyjmueller

Here are the some of the earliest pictures I have of this project. This is the Cab & Chassis, with the rear axle removed, and the frame extension bolted in place. The pair of matched axle assemblies are placed underneath of the frame extension, which is supported on jack-stands. Time is Aproximately spring 2009. Pictures are shrunk by percentage in the filename from my original file.

troyjmueller

I choose to go with a tandem axle for two reasons - weight capacity, and dual drive capability. This can now be called '4 wheel drive' when completed.

Needless to say, this caused some difficulty. With tandem axles, the further apart the axle centers are, the more 'scrubbing' of the rear tires is present. Thus, the goal becomes to place the axles as close together as possible.

I settled on a 28" center-to-center distance, allowing 24"for the stock 14" tire tread diameter, and 4" clearance between the tires. The Axles are stock 4:10 ratio 7.5" ring gear, with a factory weight rating of ~2,500 each.

To avoid overloading the axles at maximum load, I decided to go with an equilized leaf spring design. I tried eye-type mobile home springs, which were too narrow for the spring shackles and axle pads (2" versus 2 1/4"), and finally decided to go with an eighteen wheeler tractor-type 4 spring type design, with slipper pads on the springs, and longitudnal placement bars to control the axle. Sideways travel controlled by the leaves and slipper pads.

The control arms are from generation 1 rx-7's, which are ~ 10" long, and off-set by ~ 2". This allowed for a compact arrangment.

The slipper pads needed clearance, so they were placed on ~ 6" long struts, to maintain original frame height, with the shorter springs needed for tandem operation.

The springs are OEM springs, shortened at a local black-smith's shop.

troyjmueller

My design called for a heavy-duty weight capacity, while still remaining fairly light-weight. Each Rear Axle is rated for ~2,540#, so by adding that we get ~5,080#. Subtract ~ 1,500# to support the back half of the vehicle, and bed and we get a payload of ~3,500#, over 14'.

I also wanted to keep this low, for easy loading and unloading of 'toys', so I didn't want a thick bed framework.

I finally settled for the ladder-type frame shown, made from 2" x 2" x 0.120" square tubing, with cross-members of the same on 2' centers. All welds to be full circle, corners and staggered joints @ 45 degrees.

The design was basically make the bed strong enough that I could prop one end of the bed up, and use it as a ramp without destroying it. Then, the bed would transfer the weight directly to the frame, immediatly above the rear axles.

The center rails are the same width as the stock toyota frame (and my frame extension)

(The RV concept seed from my friend, previously mentioned above is in the back-ground)

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Cool.
Try photobucket and copy and paste the [I mg] into your post..much better than 3 attachments at a time

Edit I want to see how the center axle third drives the rear axle.
Why not dual full floater motor home axles? Greater capacity than 1/2 ton little axles...

troyjmueller

I don't have pictures of the next few details, so a description will have to suffice.

I mentioned above that I didn't want to mess with ramps and trailers, right?

Well, to accomplish that, I decided to place the whole bed on a pivoting track
with 4' of travel. This would allow the overhang to reach the ground at a fairly shallow angle (parked on the level). The Bed-Side track is made from 'T' section (1/2 of a section of 'I-Beam' cut down the center, on the same width as the frame. The truck-side of the track is made from ~4" x ~6" box tubing, set sideways. The pivot pin is from stock toyota spring shackle mounts, front and rear from a scrapped donor frame. This allows for some shock dampening by using the spring bushings. This raises the bed ~ 6" from the level of the frame, allowing for the deck to clear the tires. The 'T' track increases the bed rigidity, and allows for ready removal of the bed if necessary. a 3/4" 'L' strip is attached to each 'T' track to hold the bed down, and form a portion of the track. This results in a bracketed 'F' cross-section, with the cross-bars of the 'F' providing vertical support both upwards and downwards, yet allowing lengthwise travel.

so, the cross-section would look something like this:

-------|---------|------- (Bed)
.........T.............T (Bed Track)
..........[=]......[=] (Frame Track)
...........<--....--> (oriented as up-side-down 'L') ( -- pivot pins)
...........[]====[] (Frame/Chassis and cross-member)

troyjmueller

First picture of the first trip made after the bed and driveline assembled.

Second picture is from a trip with a parts donor loaded (Its a 1980 Toyota 2wd Long-Bed Frame, which I used as a donor for yet another project.)

Third picture is a comparison to the other seed idea donor -
The bigger cousin is in the background.

Side rails tied down in the second pic, welded on but not tapered @ the back in the third pic.

troyjmueller

A previously posted picture, from my storage spot. Double-Parked projects.

Note the Cab-Guard, and tapered side-rails. Bed is slid back partially for cab-clearance.

troyjmueller

@ dropzone: Thanks for the input, just noticed your post. It is a bit of a pain to upload multiple attachments, don't have a photobucket account. Been uploading the pics, just finished the saga.

With regards to the twin-screw question, I didn't have the money to get matched full-floaters, and I did have the matching semi-float axle as well as the original from what came with the truck. Budget, I guess.

The Full Size twin-screw setup would have an over-shoot type ring-pinion, which allows for a pass-through of the front diff. Niether toyota axle has that option, which necessitates a twin driveline, the second passing over the first - difficult with close quarters, and tricky to get done with transfer cases (The black-smith mentioned above has a LOT of experience with heavy rigs with that set-up, as well as power-steering-pump powered hydraulics.)

Another option frequently used is pulley drive @ the rims.

I could have gone pully/shaft to tie both pinions together, but I decided against it.

The plan (it is still in the future) is to go gasoline/electric hybrid; 3 piece driveline to the front axle, for cruising and low batteries, Electric motor direct drive for the rear axle, for short distance stop & go, and for trolling through town (and getting un-stuck).

Some golf carts are set up with a motor mounted directly to the differential. This would allow me to fit the second axle drive mechanism in a compact package, utilize additional breaking via regenerative braking (and charge the battery bank), and get better gas mileage. (Gas engines typically get the best mileage on the road, worst in stop, idle, and go).

You might not have guessed it, but this was built on a fairly tight budget. It is designed for modular upgrades, so that I can drive it as needed, until I get a 'roundtoit'.

The second axle is currently a 'Tag' axle, with the differential present and oiled. Hydraulic breaks are active on both axles. I have an electric motor from a forklift to use, but I haven't got brave enough (or ambitious enough) to Fabricate the adaption necessary. That would also require fabrication of battery storage (planned saddle-bag style, two to five deep cycle batteries each side, outside of the frame, in front of the wheels but behind the cab), as well as the $$$$ to get the batteries. ouch!.

Some of the other pending upgrades is installation of the hydraulic rams and plumbing, & pump (you can use a power steering pump as a 'poor man's hydraulic pump', without a pto. I got the idea from a couple of people, one of whom was the local black-smith also mentioned above)

It doesn't do too badly on gas; about ~13-15 mpg city, 18-20 mpg highway, ~ 3,200 ft. altitude. Beats 6 mpg for the bigger cousin shown in the pictures; almost affordable enough to drive as a daily.

troyjmueller

Just got a photobucket account. Trying to get better pics.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/...cpZZ4QQtppZZ24

troyjmueller

It's been a while, and this project got parked (for the winter 2 years ago). I drove it for a while, hauled a few loads -including a couple of parts toyota pickups . Anyhow, I found that it's kind of helpless on slippery surfaces, and will get stuck at the drop of a hat. I've also found that I goofed on the bed spacing, and placed the bed too close to the cab - it taps against the ridge on the back of the cab every so often.

So, recently, I've come accross a complete drivetrain, (axles, transmission, transfer case, drivelines, steering gear, etc., and am considering a 4x4 -er - 4x6 conversion. I have a couple of options on how to go about this, and was wondering what people thought. I can do a straight-forward solid-axle-swap and 4wd conversion (cab is coming off, for frame mods & repairs), or that and also up to a ~20" wheelbase extension. Any thoughts?

troyjmueller

Project update:

Stripped my parts donor this weekend. I thougt it was a 1980 model when I first got it, but it is looking to be a 1981 with a previous engine down-size (22R to 20R). I'm hoping that's the case, because of the 3.90:1 stock ratio for that year is more to my taste than the stock 4:38:1 of the 1980 model year, and will be a bit taller than the 4.10:1 rear-axles that I have now, and hopefully better on fuel.

Rear Suspension is anticipated to be a bugger, as the 2WD axles sit on top of the spring, and the tracking bar bracket comes forward from the top of the axle tube, between the U-Bolts. The 4WD Axles sit below the springs, and would require reworking of the design. I am thinking that I'll probably either:

a.) Move add spring brackets to allow the axle to sit on TOP of the springs, and modify to attach the tracking bar

or

b.) Source a pair of 2WD 8" Axle Housings, add the tracking bar brakets to the top, and use the 4WD Axle Shafts, and maybe parking brake mechanism.

Some work and expense, either way.

I'm thinking that the next step will be to pull the cab, inspect my frame (I know that it's been F****d on the front, as the front ~6" section is cut and welded, is off-set ~ 1/4" to one side, and the front sway-bar brackets are welded to the front cross-member, instead of bolted, as it should be.

Anywhoo, That gives me something to do with the cab off - Reinforce the frame behind & under the cab, fix the front frame section & cab mount bracket issue (cosmetic & alignment issue), correct the front ride height, and upgrade to 4wd (Solid Front Drive Axle). If I'm going to have the cab off, I might as well tackle everything at once, right?

troyjmueller

Truck is on wheels now, has front & rear drivelines installed, set up for 6x4 now.

Got a new rig, planning on stock restoration for it. 1981, 5 speed, has a little floorboard ventilation, but price was reasonable. Probably show some pics in near future.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Awesome! Show us some pictures

donaldewalker3

Really intrigued by this.