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ditchdrift's Freebie 1983 Build Up

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Old 12-15-2010, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by slacker
blocks are a dime a dozen .. just replace it ..
x2

I have 3 spare blocks stacked in the shop
Old 12-15-2010, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 4banginRunner
x2

I have 3 spare blocks stacked in the shop
heh, I'll keep that in mind if I ever decide to do a 20/22R hybrid.
Old 12-15-2010, 03:10 PM
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I just threw 2 of them away .. I couldnt even give them away


.
Old 12-15-2010, 04:11 PM
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heh. I wish I woulda had one of those blocks a year or so ago when I rebuilt this motor. I woulda done the hybrid then.

But then again, EB doesn't sell 20R heads.
Old 12-30-2010, 01:24 PM
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Well, since i don't have a motor i started to rip the interior out. Too bad i found out it has some cancer in the floor and around the body mounts. UGH





Old 12-31-2010, 12:55 AM
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other than patch panels, how can you fix something like that?
Old 12-31-2010, 02:19 AM
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that is Typical 1st Gen rust...patch or do a cab swap
Old 12-31-2010, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by space-junk
other than patch panels, how can you fix something like that?
mine was so bad , and I really wanted to keep the factory "moon roof" .. so I replaced the whole floor and mounts .. you can see it in my trekker build link (current build - in my sig) , lots of work though , but it now should last at least another 30 years

.
Old 12-31-2010, 07:19 AM
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My 82 was in similar shape. Yours has the tac and the interior is far better than most.
There were a few times where I didn't want to get up that morning and deal with working on mine.
Yours doesn't look that bad. The pan rot doesn't look bad at all. No need to cab swap that.
The progress so far looks great.
here is some inspiration..


Last edited by toyospearo; 12-31-2010 at 07:22 AM.
Old 12-31-2010, 10:39 AM
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i bought another cab because my roof and A pillars were toast. simple fix for some, but my welding skills need much improvement. your floors look like a pretty easy fix tho. have fun!
Old 12-31-2010, 10:44 AM
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Nice,can't wait to see how it turns out.
Old 01-14-2011, 01:23 PM
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Am I the king of free junky toyota's or what???!! LOL Looky what just got dumped on to me! I needed a block.... but got something alot better... you know what im gonna do now!





Ewww



Awwwww yeeeaaa!
Old 01-14-2011, 01:33 PM
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Please tell me you aren't going to put that heap on your 4WD frame just to be different and cool. Just kidding
Old 01-14-2011, 01:39 PM
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Sweet. Good luck with the swap.
Old 01-15-2011, 04:57 AM
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Nice Plow Finder, love the solid axle, by the way that truck would sell for 3-4 K here in canada due to lack of rust. Sweet Rig, hit me up once its running n you wanna sell it, Id come pick it up n drive her to Canada. Good Luck with the build
Old 01-24-2011, 10:23 PM
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Can't beat free
Old 01-29-2011, 06:01 PM
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Well, the engine was a pile of crap. After pulling it, the cylinder head was rusted solid, i had to hammer out the pistons, and the crank was shot. I had to bore the engine .040 over and took .015 off the deck of the block to clean up all the pitting. Heres the engine after the machine work.




After i threw on a few coats of enamel and pounded in the freeze plugs.




Cranks in!
Old 01-30-2011, 06:08 AM
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Everything looks very nice. How does that effect the compression when you have to take metal off the block deck like you did?
Old 01-30-2011, 06:40 AM
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It should almost even itself out since he had it bored which actually lowers the compression. 15 thous is a lot. I notice a difference in cam timing with my block decked at .010. Only had mine bored 20 over and still get 170psi on cyl pressure. New head not milled.

1 piece of advice, get the LCE cam gear and have the cam dialed in. Make sure you also get destroked pistons as well to keep your quench as close to 0 as possible as well as keep your piston to valve clearance.

I remember EB telling me 10 was the max I could go on the block assuming I was using his new head. Not sure whether it was cam timing or valve clearance issue.
Old 01-30-2011, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
It should almost even itself out since he had it bored which actually lowers the compression. 15 thous is a lot. I notice a difference in cam timing with my block decked at .010. Only had mine bored 20 over and still get 170psi on cyl pressure. New head not milled.

1 piece of advice, get the LCE cam gear and have the cam dialed in. Make sure you also get destroked pistons as well to keep your quench as close to 0 as possible as well as keep your piston to valve clearance.

I remember EB telling me 10 was the max I could go on the block assuming I was using his new head. Not sure whether it was cam timing or valve clearance issue.
That all makes perfect sense. I wasn't sure exactly what the issues could be, but .015 sounded like a lot to me as well. I was also wondering about the piston clearance and compression. Thanks for the clarification


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