Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am going to try and get something done on a daily basis. It may be a small step but still is a step closer to get it finished. I have done a lot of sanding and cleaning on this part of the frame. I am hoping to start installing the floor pan later this week on my day off.


Here I cut the rear part of the floor pan off. I am under cutting so as not to cut too much off. I am slowly trying to get it to fit.


I am starting to wonder if this truck was not red at one time and some one has did a complete repaint on it or just replaced a few sections. I know this floor pan has been replaced. I smacked my thumb with the big hammer trying to chisel some screws off as they are rusted and decided to call it quits for the day. Ouch!!!

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

Afternoon Terry. On big replacement panels that could possibly be cut too small because of curves and such, you could leave it an inch bigger all the way around if it will sit flush and drill a pattern with a half inch drill bit on the extra inch that's laid over the original floor and plug weld the holes that you drilled. Then seam seal the edges. It's just an thought. And it's easier to do on heavy parts that aren't on a table.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Tony... What has taken me several hours probably take you a couple. I have been having to grind and cut off several of the previous owners welds. I know of the guy that did some of the work on it before and I am sure he used a stick welder. I will give your way a try. I am sure I am going to use plenty of seam sealer when I am done. I am a little anxious about how my results are going to be but it will be rust free when I get done. Anything I really screw up, I can have a local shop get started for me and I can finish it if I get in way over my head. So far I am actually learning a few things,

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

This is where the floor pan meets the cab mount. A ton of rust dust under it from a bad cab mount that I will need to replace at a later time. I am going to get the floor done first and then get the cab mounts when I come up with a way to get the cab off.


Some of the rust cut out. There is more that I dont have showing. I am having to grind a lot of welds off of the door seal from the previous owner.


Some of the rust and acorns from a squirrel coming inside the cab from here. Here is one of the cab mounts that will need replaced.


This corner is deeper on the replacement panel compared to the rest of the cab. Replacement parts dont always fit 100% correctly. I am still working on this issue.


Took a break and Justin and me did some sanding, grinding, and cleaning on the frame and then used some rust converter on the rear of the frame. I am eventually going to get a sand blaster to clean some of the crevices that I cant reach.


Did the same on the front end.

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

Terry that floor board looks 100℅ better with that rusted panel cut out. You guys are doing a really good job on that frame. Are you using naval jelly for the rust conversion? Just curious as I always like to try different things. Looking forward to your progress. Keep up the good work!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Tony...I am using a Rustoleum rattle can that converts rust to primer. I can get a picture of the can later as I used two cans to get to where I am at. We have a ton of hours into cleaning the frame. We are using razor blades, putty knife, a hand drill with a small bristle brush on it, and I have a big grinder with the twisted wire brush on it. After we get it cleaned, I go over it with paint thinner to clean it for the converter/primer.

I have not heard of using Naval Jelly. I am going to look into it. The backing plates on my rear brakes have so many contours that I have not been able to get into them and other parts of the frame. Currently just doing the parts that I can access and get it to where I want it to be. There is some pitting in the frame but it does not affect structural integrity. I had thought of doing filling them in but most wont be seen so wont be doing that.

I would like to use POR-15 but we have had some things to come up with house projects and kids dental bills are hitting both of the wife and I budget to keep them caught up. POR-15 is going to have to wait. I am hoping Naval Jelly will fit the budget for getting to the areas I am having difficulty of getting to. Just the grinding and cleaning we have done to the frame and floor pan is creating a lot of debris on us and the floor. It would be nice to have something to put on and then to spray off. We have a hours into getting it to this point and still a lot to go.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Tony... The rest of the floor pan is fitting nicely. The problem I am having is in this one corner. I am not sure how to go about making this fit. Any suggestions? I still have to get all of the edges and more rust cleaned out and that is going to take some time, but I was wondering later on when I get the floor pan ready to be welded in, if may be I will need to fab up some small patch panels to fill in where the pan is not fitting?

This is the problem area. Later to day I will get out there and draw a line on where the fit is not fitting.

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

Here is the Loctite brand. I'm sure there are many others out there. A 12 ounce jug goes a long way on small detailed stuff especially if you get some of the scale off beforehand. I think these jugs run between 4 & 6 dollars. On the patch panel, maybe a inch or two relief cut in that bottom corner and a little heat will get it in there nicely. Then you may be able to weld your relief cut rather than an additional piece. Just a thought. Have a good one.

K91776

I've never heard of Naval Jelly, I'm definitely going to try it out on my project when it gets delivered!

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

I learned about it a long while ago. When I was a kid, my grandpa was restoring some old coal mining cars and equipment from a mine he worked in. It worked really well then so I've been using it ever since. There's probably a lot safer and better stuff out there these days. Also for really tight spots, Ospho works good to. It's a liquid and can be applied with a spray bottle. Napa carries gallons of it for $30

K91776

Ok, awesome. Thanks for the info bud.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello K91776... I was checking out your build. Those Tacomas are some nice little trucks. Welcome to Yotatech. There is tons of information on here. Will be looking forward to how your truck turns out. Each step is a step closer to getting it to where you want it.

Thanks Tony... That I can fit into my budget as I do have some tough areas that I want to get into and will show it in a picture below and that will work great for where I want to get into.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

This is what we knocked loose just yesterday. We were in the 80's yesterday and now I have the stove heating the shop for today. Tomorrow we are to get snow. Welcome to Missouri. Oh and a tornado hit about 40 miles from here last night.


Here is where I am going to use the Naval Jelly to get all the rust off that Tony mentioned above. Thanks Tony.


Just some of the equipment you used to clean up the frame. This is after I spent $15 at the car wash knocking off the grease and rust that I could with a water wand.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Tony... Looking from the bottom of the truck, I am not seeing rust in this area that I have circled in white. A window was left down and got a lot of rain inside the cab. I can bang on the circle with a hammer and it will not punch thru. Would it be ok to cover this in POR and not cut it out? It feels really solid. The floor will be covered with sound deadner and carpet. It does not have to look perfect but dont want the rust to come back.


Here is the other issue I am having. I have solid metal a few inches just forward of my hand. Just not quite sure if I need to cut the patch panel to where it is more flush to the floor board or make patch panels at a later time to connect the replacement floor pan to the existing floor?

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

If it's solid I'd roll with it. Maybe take those two bolts out to make sure it's not too bad under the heads of them. It's kind of hard for me to think a couple steps ahead sometimes haha, but I try to leave the backside of welds open to treat that metal before closing it in. That will always be the first thing to rust. Even if it's just an access hole to shoot some por or epoxy in. Glad to hear that weather missed y'all. We are getting near 90 today and seems like what winter we had is long gone.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Crazy weather you are gett8ng Terry!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Tony... I feel if I can kill the rust it will last as it is solid. I will make sure all edges are cleaned up well. I am going to seam seal this real well and try to remove any chance of rust coming back. We have a mild winter compared to most we get. Here in tornado alley and warmer weather it does get a little interesting at times.

Hello Robb... It has already been an active spring already around here. Normally April and May are the biggest concerns. Tonight I go to work and it is to be in the mid 20's. That is going to feel cold. Not looking forward to it.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am waiting to get the 2 wheel drive back from the frame shop so have to keep the funds back for it instead of getting very much supplies or parts at this time and am running out of small things to do on the 76 so am just removing rust that I know I am not getting to far over my head and not having the other replacement panel just yet. Cutting out the rust and getting the dust and sparks on me is a little rough. Yesterday it was hot and having to wear a jacket to keep the sparks off of me was a little much. Today I used the cooler weather to my advantage where a jacket to keep the sparks off was not so bad.

The rust in this cab is typical of what is going to be found in the Ford trucks around here and is actually better then most. It looks bad but is better then most I would be able to find and finding a Super Cab is really hard. I will need to replace a cab corner, the Super Cab floor board, and front body mounts.

In some ways parts of this side is worse then the drivers side but I dont think I will have near the problems I am having on the drivers side. Or so I hope

K91776

Thank you! I may be getting a '95 4Runner instead though. Just a more feasible purchase.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello K91776...The right truck will come along. I always liked the SUVs as you get the benefit of car and truck in the same ride. I have had more SUVs then trucks.