92yota92

Long time lurker first time poster, I have a font colour issue and had to edit hopefully this fixed it.

So first thing I don't want to argue the merits of one engine over the other. I've been thinking about this for over a year now and my mind is made up!

I choose this generation because the performance is far better than the series 1 and all the controls are still not fly by wire.

-240hp
-280 # torque (under rated)
-Very easily tunable to 300+ hp
-Still decent fuel mileage (I hope to get consistent numbers over 20 mpg)
-Very common in wrecking yards and on good old craigslist

Truck is a v6 xcab shortbox main mods so far are SAS with rears up front and chevy rear springs, it sits about 3-4" up in the front and 4-5 in the back, I left the rear springs as the heavy duty 3/4 ton leaf pack because I haul a camper but they still flex decent. This should give me plenty of height up front for the l67 oil pan.

As an added bonus I will be doing a supra LSD mod to the rear and probably welding the front diff and going to a one piece rear driveshaft.

I'm collecting parts now and I'll be doing this over the winter right after I use my xcab v6 as a donor truck for a 4 runner with a bagged out engine that will be my DD for the project duration (which I hope to sell for profit after).

Constructive criticisms are helpful but if I’m plain wrong feel free to call me on it.

There's a lot of pioneering tech done by Kiwi and Nashvegas

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...cab-build.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f163...ontiac-213881/

and some others but so far I've yet to find someone whos actually finished a supercharged version in a yota.

This guy on a jeep forum has a good write-up on how to mate the L67 to an AX15

http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showt...00-into-a-jeep

This brings up a few questions.

I'm starting to collect parts and on my hunt for transmission components I started asking myself why do I need to swap out the input shaft and get all creative with throwout bearings actuators slave cylinders etc.
It seems much easier to do it with the AX15.

I know from the marlin boards you cann swap tail housings from the AX15 to the R150 why not just do that and use the AX15 in it's place, this takes away a few headaches and makes it strait jeep up to the flywheel.

-There basically the same transmission and should perform simlar.
-The gearing is exactly the same
-The shifter is in the same spot (I tihnk)
-It's the same length.

Next is the bellhousing, the input shaft from an AX15 is the right length to make this work, yet they say use a bellhousing from a 96-98 Dakota 2.5, which is also an AX15...

Am i missing something here?

did this particular trans come with a shorter input shaft?

I can't find info to back that up so until i see otherwise I'll be using a Dakota AX15 with an r150 tailhousing as my trans & bellhousing using the r150 transfercase (no dual cases at this time) if this ends up not working then I'll use the Dakota bellhousing and put a jeep Ax15 in place ...

So the breakdown so far:

-L67 with a L36 camaro/firebird flywheel balance matched to the L67 flexplate
-Camaro/firebird pressure plate
-Old jeep clutch matched the input shaft and fits the pressure plate.
-Dakota bellhousing and AX15 with 7.5" input shaft
-Machine a pilot bushing to solve the input shaft and piolot bearing size and engagement depth issues.
-Clutch slave from the Dakota or keep trans adapted to the stock toy line, if the master fails at the task that'll be swapped out with jeep one from a 4.0l.

the trans and shaft and clutch and actuator all being jeep/jeep/jeep should make for smooth operation but if a spacer here or a machined bushing there is needed then so be it. and there we have it with no adapters.

If someone can confirm these transmission questions that would be very helpful.

There's obviously a lot more to this build:

Wiring is a big one and ECM tuning, auto codes need to be cleared and custom tuning to make the L67 think it's a standard. Advantage being the L67 is an OBD2 ecm and can be addressed with software.

Exhaust won’t be too bad with some hip hugger camaro/firebird headers.

Mounts should be easy using the camaro/firebird mounts as a base for the fabrication.

Fuel lines and pumps/filters should all work if not a high pressure gm pump will do the job.

There will need to be all sorts of things worked out like VSS and instrument cluster stuff.

92yota92

4runner that's recieving the heart of the project truck, will serve as my DD for the duration of the project. Hopefully have that done by the end of next week.



Sitting in a field for over a year and all the widnows still work and there's only minor surface rust on the frame. thank you craigslist!

$400

Ghettofab88

Cool, keep us updated on the swap. I've been eyeing the camaro 3.8L as a potential candidate for my 88 pickup. Cheap and just enough power to get what I need out of it without breaking parts. Since those came with manual trans I should be able to keep my truck manual and get it passed cali smog. I've considered the 3rz, 4.3, LS1, 1uz, 5vze, 7mgte and even a jeep 4.0.

What are you going to do about the reversed intake?

No idea about your trans question. I've been wondering that myself. Do you know what the dakota or jeep output shaft spline counts are? That could be an issue.

Kevo

92yota92

I'm having a hard time finding a power plant that matches up for the price too, I can't say I'll never change my mind but if a 2jz come up for dirt cheap it would be hard to say no.

Ax-15's are 10 spline just like the R15x series transmissions but the input shaft lengths vary, (r150 being the shortest at 6.5") the ax-15 ones are right at about 7.5" the supra r154 shafts are longer too but those transmission are typically much more expensive. Parts are interchangable to a point (AX-15 = pre 96 r150) other stuff matches up to, there's a good cross reference write up on a jeep forum I can't remeber where atm.

On a positive note I've found a local machine shop that will do flywheel/flexplate ballance matching for around 50$

My issue is that the dakota ones (96-99 I belive for the correct bellhousing patern) came in a ax-15 and NV flavour but I can't find details on the differences between the jeep and dodge AX-15's other than the belhousing.

You can use a NV trans with this swap but you couldnt interchange the toy tailhousing and transfercase and would have to go dodge/jeep right back to the drive shafts or buy pricy adapters.

Maybe the dodge 2.5 4cyl only came in a 2x4? but the input shaft should still be the same and a tailhousing swap would cure that.

Maybe they have different housing bolt paterns and bearing sizes more like the post 96 r150?

I can't say for sure, worst case I'll have to buy a second 50$ transmission. I've thought of just using the toyota trans strait to the dakota bellhousing, leave the input shaft shave some material of the bellhousing surfaces to gain a 1/2"+ or so and make up the rest with a flywheel spacer and custom pilot bushing. I'm asuiming that won't work for some reason so I'm trying to be ready for alternatives.

My plan for the intake is to set the engine as far forward as I can and fabricate a 90 deg adapter and mount the airbox up in the rear driverside corner on the firewall, atleast that's the plan so far but that may change, I don't see a Holden showning up any time soon at a local yard.

The non supercharged L37 is a much simpler swap and several people have build threads detailing how they've done it to completion, even reported some fuel numbers. They came in standard and were already set up for rwd in the camaro/firebird, the only real challenge is attaching the trans and that's been done enough to take out the mystery. Unfortunatly the interalls are completelly different and you can't just swap say the heads and supercharger from an l67 onto an l37.

Durability wise the r150/151 and v6 runing gear should be able to handle 300hp no problem and then some unless your geared right down and rock crawling but in that case you could break stock parts with a 22r. I'll be running 4.10's and an LSD rear I like to get places but I'm not in it for hill climbing or rock crawling.

I'm at a bit of a stall the woman won't let me do anything else until I finish fixing my sisters car, hopefully before it starts to snow lol. I'm also installing flooring on the upper floor of my house and the garage is packed full of furniture.

After all that then I'll pull my truck engine do maintanece items and stick it in the runner which I've got running but it's pretty bagged, maybe 70% what it should be but good enough for now.

92yota92

For those who may be interested in this I've done more research and becuase I'm cheap and don't want to salvage 2 ax15's I have got a little more info (theory) on the engine and transmission mating.

Most atempts at this have been done with your typical ax15 input shaft which is a 10 spline 1 inch diamter shaft, you then need to find an early 80's 4 speed jeep clutch disk to get in between a camaro flyweel and pressure plate.

What I've found out about the dakota 2.5l trans with the correct bellhousing is that it only comes in 2wd flavour and while the input shaft is the same leangth and diameter it uses a 14 spline count for some reason (likely to mate to a cheaper low quality comon clutch).

The camaro pressure plate requires a 9.25" clutch disk a quick google search brought me to centerforce (organic high HP rated) where I can get a (wait for it) ....... 9.25" diameter disk with a 14 spline 1" diameter input shaft ment for a chevy 3.1L engine.

The only real problem is the pilot it's the wrong diamiter and doesn't engage the gm crank enough to be comfortable. The pilot tip will need to be machined down a bit and then given a custom pilot bushing to lengthen and fit the GM crank better but thats no big deal.

What I think this means is that I can use the 2wd ax15 dakota input shaft and bellhousing mated to the r150 giving me only 1 transmission to salvage, and I can now use a cheap (90$ @ centerforce) good quality clutch plate.

Anyone see any holes in this? My info to make this hapen is piecemeal and mostley hear say.

92yota92

Quick update, no great deals have poped up locally and I'm having trouble finding a dakota 2wd transmission to canabalize.

I haven't given up but i've been busy with house reno's an in my never endign reaserch I ran into some info I thought people might find intersting.

I saw a good deal on CL for a 2004 3.5L GM atlas I5 engine. There good engines and produce decent power at good fuel efficiency so I started looking into swaping this thing and while I'm sure someone has already put this together I haven't seen it around.

A 2004-2005 canyon or colardao 5 speed manual uses a MA5 trans which is aisin which has the same case to bell bolt pattern and supposably has an interchangable front bearing retainer (I find the last part hard to belive as they have different first gears) but here's the cool part.

All atlas family engines use the chevy V8 bell to block bolt pattern, this should mean that any engine with a chevy V8 pattern (there are alot) with the right mixture and machining of input shafts can directly bolt with no expensive adapters to an R series toyota trans using the canyon/colorado MA5 bellhousing.

There may be other issues like starter location etc. but it apears I can directly bolt an atlas engine to my R150 trans using the MA5 bell and a 7.5" input shaft (AX15 or MA5 or an machined AR5) provided they are adaptable to the r150 (and we know the ax15 is) or any other chevy V8 that I want with no 5-600$ custom bell or adaper.

or perhaps the ass of the r150 can be adapted to the ma5? even better as the atlas ecu needs an electronic VSS from the trans.

Also fly by wire throttle is not as scary as I thought, don't let that keep you from using whatever engine you want, all you need to do is bolt the right petal assembly in place and plug it into the ecu.

Ghettofab88

I looked into those I5s also. I got excited when I found out that the Colorados were pass drop front d-shaft. I was hoping that the exhaust would drop on the drivers side like a 22re, but no luck, they just cram it all on the pass side. What's more interesting is that the cat is in the exhaust manifold. For us here in California, we have to keep the factory cat setup from the new engine when swapping. I'm unsure if the cat in the exhaust manifold would clear the front driveshaft or frame. What is the length difference between the I5 and 22r?

I too have been looking at 3800s and have found a few cheap complete buicks in the $500 range, but no superchargers or Camaros. Also found out that lexus v8s are almost just as cheap.

Now I just need to find that magical money tree!

Kevo

92yota92

At this point in time all I need to do to avoid emissions testing is register my truck at 5001+ Kg GVW which I've done so I could mess with the exuaghst and be OK. A crossover pipe under the bell should line it up pretty much where the stock V6 exuaghst is, I was wondering why the manifold looked so bulky but deleting that CAT looks doable, the manifold I'm looking at looks like steel.

Length I'm not sure but I know there quite short, some guys have put the I6 4200's into FJ's with room to spare so I asume the I5's should fit fine it's kind of tall and the 4x4 3700's and/or the 4200's had this crazy deep oil pan with the front diff built into it but I have an SAS + about 5" of lift I think I would be alright maybe even with a 3700.

There are a ton of N/A 3800's around here even some rwd versions but without the S/C I'm not seeing the power gains to make it worth while, I'll hold out for a s/c version and open my serches up to later series 3800's given the fly by wire electronics aren't such a big deal after all.

This I5 I'm looking at has got less than 70k km on it and if I can sell the auto trans it comes with for around 300$ I would be into this engine for around 3-400$, it's really got me thinking.

92yota92

I'm working a deal that may change my direction toward the I5 engine, I still want that 300 punds of tourque from the 3800 but to make this all happen in the next year I may have to settle.

I've read some troubling things about heads going with the 3.5l so if I can get this one cheap enough it may be worth if just for fabrication purposes, I can always drop in a 3.7l I5 at a later date, the 242 hp and # of torque should get me where I want to be hp wise.

92yota92

I've got a decent deal on an atlas I5 engine, 220ish hp and 220 torque and an incredibly flat torque curve.

the guy selling me the engine is also hooking me up with an MA5 bell that'll allow me to hook it drectly up to my R150F trans. Becuase I'm hopeless with wiring he is also doing a stand alone wiring setup for me that'll basically allow this thing to run sitting on a crate.

An AX15 jeep input shaft will give me the perfect length to engage the pilot bearing, some maching may be required to make it fit right. the slave will need to be internall, I'm asuming it'll work if I get an ax15 shaft with a jeep internal slave, hopefully nothing different, GM doesn't usually change that sort of thing unless it's neccessary.

A clutch and flywheel kit for the canyon/colarado with a 10.4" 10 spline clutch disk subed out for the 26 spline one will hook up no problem.

After getting a good look at the engine the mounts should be pretty easy, transmission might have to moved back a bit to utilize the mechanical fan or I'll be going to a dual electric setup, aparently these engines are easy to keep cool.

Wiring should be easy after the standalone, I'll be using the GM gauge cluster and adapting it into the Toyota space, this will give me a good chunk of space I can relocate oil and battery gauges into. everything will just plug into the GM ECM and body module including the fly by wire gas petal.

ECM will be re programed for standard use and have VATS emisions etc. removed. The toyota electronic VSS is a 4 pulse signal, I'm not sure if this can be tuned around yet (give the ECM some rediculus axle ratio if it's a 40 pulse or something). Once it's all runing and solid a simple HP tune can see 20+ HP if it's not enough already.

More to come....

Can I edit thread titles?