subaruwrx88011

ya... for reals.

subaruwrx88011

ya....for reals. They didn't jump all over me about "not doing my homework". They just jumped in and started helping the newb that I am.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Pirate has changed over the years. Was a time that such a question would have resulted in a significant emotional event for you.

With luck you'll have this sorted in no time.

subaruwrx88011

hahaha...I can imagine. I have heard stories from others, but decided that more people seeing my problem might result in a solution.

Got my test lamp last night, I am going to give it a go this afternoon.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Sweet and I agree; good call on more eyes.

I'm having a failed attempt at motivating myself to go work on wifes car in the cold.

RAD4Runner

Repeat:



Find out which pin on your O-Reilly alternator is “F”, and which one is “L”?
Connect "F" to power bus Engine fuse, or a fuse from power bus "E", or a fuse from IG1 of ignition switch.
No one knows your O’Reilly alternator better than the manufacturer, or O'Reilly -… ask manufacturer/visit manufacturer website for documentation.

subaruwrx88011

Ok here is what I did.
1. Connected the test light's clip to negative and touched the tip to the positive. It lit up.
2. Touched the tip to the red wire terminal on the alternator. It lit up.
3. With truck completely off, touched the prong that the wire connects to. Didn't light up.
4. With truck on accessory (fuel pump on), touched the tip to the prong inside the alternator that the wire connects to. Didn't light up. (none of the prongs lit up the test light).
5. Touched the wire inside the harnesses plug, Didn't light up.
6. Turned the truck on. Multi meter reads 12.02 volts.
7. Touched the wire inside the harness plug, Didn't light up.
8. Touched the tip to the prong inside the alternator that the wire connects to. Didn't light up. (none of the prongs lit up the test light).
9. Connected the test light's clip to positive and touched the prong inside the alternator that the wire connects to giving it 12v. Multi meter ends up reading 16+ volts.

Safe to say that the prong the wire connects to needs 12v but the wire isn't providing it?
If so, my original question stands, were does that wire trace through?

Hopefully I did all of this right.

subaruwrx88011

Went to O'Reilly's and got the specifics on the alternator.
The prongs are in order from top to bottom:
P - Phase Connector - used to send a signal to a relay or frequency sensing tachometer.
L (the one the wire from harness is connected to) - Indicator Lamp
I - Ignition Terminal - this terminal is connected to the vehicle's ignition switch. Note: L may be used instead of I
S - Sense Battery Voltage - provides precise battery voltage reading.

Since I only have one wire, and it is connected to L, that needs to end up going to the ignition switch correct?
If I don't end up tracing the wire all the way through the system, can I just connect a new wire straight from the ignition switch to the L prong? (I really want to use the wire in the harness though).

RAD4Runner

God Job! See? Not that hard, is it?
Yes, the only wire on your connector needs to get 12V. Since you only have one wire, options
1) Using "I" most reliable would be to get that 12V from the same source of 12V as the IG in stock wiring. That would be the red wire in stock wiring. IF the red wire in stock wiring is missing, run wire back to the 15-Amp ENGINE FUSE. Connect it to the side that only gets 12V when the fuse is inserted.
Need to note that this makes your charge fault light non-functional. Easy work-around is to get an inexpensive dash-mount digital voltmeter (Amazon) connected to battery positive OR screw terminal of alt output. Proper charging volt ranges between 13.5 and 15.1V depending on temp and condition of battery.

2) Using "L" connect to stock "L" wire (yellow). If that wire is gone, run wire back to Charge fuse. Connect to side that gets 12V only when fuse is inserted.

subaruwrx88011

Finally had time and finally figured out how to take all this information and turn it into a solution for my truck.
My truck didn't have any of the stock wiring hooked up, but I found the after market distribution block that was "turned" on by the ignition.
I ran a wire from "I" to that distribution block and now am getting around 15v when the truck is running.

I plan on redoing all the wiring at some point to utilize the Toyota harness.

Thanks guys.

RAD4Runner

Cool. Thanks for the update and good luck with your build.