trd4runner

Ok so im going to call it! I (as far as I know) am the first to complete the 3.8 S/C motor swap in this gen yota. I will do the best I can to explain what and how I did it.

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trd4runner

Im in the process of getting all the loose ends taken care of but hey you have to start some where.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

bring on the details bro!

trd4runner

Ok I have a bunch of pics on photobucket but im only able to post the small pics. Please tell me what im doing wrong.

trd4runner

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...IMG_7169-1.jpg


Here is the link to my photobucket page. Im doing something wrong when trying to post pics. take a look and have fun with the pics

trd4runner

Ok so one of the first parts you will need to find is a bell housing from a 97 dodge Dakota 4banger 2.5 with a AX15 5 speed. Don't forget the clutch fork. bolts from the housing to the gear box and the through out bearing and the front cover from the AX15. There will have to be milling to the bell housing. This comes from kiwipushrod on pirate4x4.com. take .250'' off the motor side and .120 off the gearbox side. While your at the machine shop get your input shaft milled down to the I.D. of a GM pilot from a 01 3.8 fire chicken and have them make the pilot bearing longer @ 3/16 . Input shaft is from allstargear.com part # AX15-16A 10 tooth. Now to the flywheel, get one from a 01 3.8 fire chicken. THERE is a difference in balance from N/A to S/C rotating assembly, what you should do is take both flywheel and flex plate to get balanced and have them take the N/A flywheel balanced to the S/C flex plate spec.

trd4runner

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trd4runner

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You will have to cut out for the starter

trd4runner

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trd4runner

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This is why you will need tot get the pilot bearing made longer. Also I forgot to say you MUST get the cover plate from at AX15 trans. ( the part where the throw-out bearing rides on)

trd4runner

Now to install the input shaft from the AX15 into the R150 trans


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Remove the bolt that holds shift selector

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Next remove the alen or torks head on the side that hold a spring and ball in it. Tap the rear section off

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Rowdydudeman

the 3800 is a fantastic motor with tons of potential. once those things are woken up from their stock form... MAN do they move. Have you though about upgrading that m90 to a tvs 2300?

trd4runner

Remove the cover from the R150 where the thought out bearing rides on, 2 big snap rings hold the big bearings in place, remove snap rings tap the front section off.

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trd4runner

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Place trams in vice
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trd4runner

Cut the spline section off if you don't have a puller big enough. COVER all the rest of the trans when cutting!!!!!

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trd4runner

Once removed do the reverse process to put the old bearing on the new input shaft. BE CARFUL not to damage the dust covers

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trd4runner

For what im looking for I wont need to upgrade the charger unless I gain some awesome results in the efficiency. Im guessing the way im set up now I should be @ 285HP close to 300 FT. Im trying to set this truck up for expedition style camping.

trd4runner

Now to get this all together

Remove the big nut with an impact.

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PLACE in order and be carful!!!

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Now the input shaft can be removed!! I bet you where thinking how the hell does this come out.

reverse the steps to re assemble

Rowdydudeman

That is exactly what it will do for you. The thing that kills the m90 and blowers like it is their lack of efficiency. They have 3 lobes where as the TVS style blowers have 4, they move the same amount of air (if not more) but can do so at a lower RPM thereby reducing parasitic loss and heat that will be generated. I did a very similar swap on my saturn (went from the m62 to a tvs 1320) and noticed huge gains in efficiency and lower iat2's.

trd4runner

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