A 4l80e?? Why so big? What do you plan to use a power plant/power adders?

Well either a 4.8 or a 5.3 doesn't matter there. It will be getting the ls6 intake from my GTO, (she's getting a FAST 90,) ls6 cam, lunati gold double springs, ARP rod bolts, hardened pushrods, regapping the upper rings, probably an underdrive crank pulley, and most importantly, a 67mm hair drier!!

If I get a 4.8, with the above valve train, 7500 rpm should be just fine and dandy. 5.3 would have to be limited to 7000.

My goal is an honest 600 at the wheels. Only the 400 and the 80 can handle that reliably when stock.

Fuel system is still up in the air right now as I'm torn between slumping the tank Nd running my own -6an lines with a beefy inline or doing an intank walbro.

Ahhh fair enough. I had a 5.3 on 6 pounds using a radix twin screw in front of a built 4l60e that I beat the livin tar out of and never had a problem.

Sorry for the delay in replies.

There is a guy who CNC's a bunch of swap and buggy parts out in vegas, a bracket for corvette line alternator and power steering pump ran about 145 bucks and are incredibly light.

I was originally going to use the older 4l60e, and have the adapter to the d300 (need to list it for sale) but the later 4l60e that came with my all aluminum motor has the 6 bolt pattern with one hole off, so with a clocking ring it bolted up with a spacer plate which makes it incredibly easy, and it moved the drive train back an inch so that with the manual tranny 4runner longer drive shaft the rear shaft fits. Still have to have the front one shortened, clearance is gonna be tiiiight. I also used the original tranny mount from the truck it was pulled out of. I had already fabbed it up to work with the advance adapters kit so I modified it for the new mount. not pretty but it gets the job done.

I kind of wish I had weighed the truck before hand along with the motor after original brackets ditched and changed a bunch around.

I had to go to a camaro alternator for the steering box lines to be accessible. All of the IFS is stock, 3 inch body lift, camaro oil pan.

The engine would sit a bit more level if I found a batwing oil pan. The Headers I used off Amazon clear the upper part of the frame.

I have about 5 inches from the core support to the furthest part forward of the motor. I just ordered a massive 26x19 inch double pass radiator for it along with the coolant lines and shifter. More pictures should be coming by next weekend.

Thanks for the AC info too. If you all are interested the guy in Vegas said he does one off and would be interested in turning out parts for us (such as a mount to move stock ac back to vette line and some disc brake conversion parts) Cant afford his one off prices but if a few are interested.. I probably will just make do until winter and work on the AC then.

The 4l60e has slightly different clutch something or others. It's an updated transmission and is supposedly around 3% more efficient from what I read in some GM engineering something or other.

I like that SS AC, seems like a good idea. However it uses the newer style of clamping the lines vs the old style the toyota uses. The kit linked to for around 400 would bolt on and easily adapt to the rest of the yota system. However at the same time I was wanting to reserve that area for a supercharger in the future. If I can get a TB SS pump cheap with the the part of the hoses that bolts to the unit, I might buy it and see what's required to adapt it.

I really don't know why I feel I need to supercharge it, This thing will be incredibly light and has almost 3x the power of a stock one. After it gets driving a track bar of some sort will probably be the first 'fix'. I guess I kind of want it to outrun my Cayman S in a straight line.

Anyone have any ideas for good spring helpers or airbags that dont effect flex? I would like to tow a smaller-medium sized boat. I know the axles are beefy enough, have trailer brakes, and with this motor/transmission I'm fine. Just dont like it getting squirmy.

Hey there, Mr. Ant....

I'm sure many will dog it..... and heck, you might not even be interested, but what the heck! lol.... This is with stock FLAT AT HELL leaf pack, 12"x125# Black Magic Coil Spring tucked into the bump tower/over the u-bolts... It brought me up 2.75" and with a full load of stuff, it doesn't drop much at all. Some choose 14"x100# coils... and they are a lil softer, I imagine.. But were too tall for my needs(3.5"-4" of lift in the rear)...... This is today, with 32's on for a day run up in the Local Mountains..........

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Some recent pics with the 31"(DD) tires...

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As I said, you might not be interested... But I thought I'd throw it up there, ... and at 70$ or so, total... It'll do for now for me, until I can stomach forking over 500$ or so for some NICE Leaf Packs/new Hangers/etc... right? haha.

I like it. Are the coils always hitting the axle or are they cut a little short? Might cut some springs a little short to retain the initial softness.

So I have three question. Do you foresee a problem with the camero oil pan if you do a SAS in the future? Do you mind sharing what headers you ordered off amazon? And what did you use for the floor shifter? Thanks

Sorry I didn't read you used a manual tranny do you dont have a automatic floor shifter.

Hey Mr. Ant....

I think I would probably just order different springs if I wanted to deal with the softer factor... Only because, you want them to stay in place, ya know? I cut the tower(you can see it all in my zuk mod thread in my sig).... and then had a spring that at full droop wouldn't fall out. I heated up the tower/inside pillar and bent it out JUST til the spring would slide in. LOTS of guys are just buying FJ or CJ coils, even LCruiser coils, then slipping them OVER that tower on top, so they don't have to cut em. You can, for very cheap, get a kit that you can weld in, then the spring would be fixed on the bottom instead of sitting on the Ubolts... I've been wheeling pretty crazy with these... getting up speed and then airborne'ing the rear in spots, never came close to having one pop out... So I didnt' bother. Because, eventually, I'll just spend the 500$ or more on 'the perfect leaf pack for me'! hahaha.

Yeah, lots of threads on here, like mine in my sig, including "Philbert" and "Toyo" and a couple others... You can also find a few on Zuk's site.... http://www.gearinstalls.com/ (bottom left of that page)....

Any way you go, I'm sure this thing's "SICK FACTOR" is going to be through the roof! hahaha. LOVE this idea! Wish I had the resources/time to do it myself, or something like it, 1UZ or otherwise:great:

It is an auto, I used a manual's drive shaft. 4L60e. I have dana 300 twin stick through the floor board and a shifter out of a 700r4 camaro (well it is on the way)

I don't plan on doing a SAS, the only other person who has done this has a SAS'd 4Runner, with I think 6 inches of spring lift. There is a video on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVBa6IACvsc. I personally think that much lift is cheating... My truck looks very stock.

I like the zuk mod. I'm thinking getting some semi-soft TJ springs and using one of those secure kits to affix it to the top, and cut them shorter. That way They can be removed and installed with the trailer, and will droop 1 or 2 inches until it hits the load springs. I want it to be able to tow some weight, but as with anything you have trade offs, and removable springs seem to be the answer. Either way I need to get her running first.

Well dam. My radiator measurements didn't take into account the steering box, and I ordered the absolute largest one I could find. So the windshield washer reservoir will just get moved, I have tons of space over the fenders anyway, and will have a 2 and a 1/2 inch 26x19 double pass radiator. Should be able to take the heat anywhere, especially with that aluminum block.

Any updates?

I'm also slapping a post here because I want to research a bunch of swaps.... This one is very interesting to me(my brother said, "HEY MAN, get out here to Havasu, AZ and let's slap an LS1 99 or so Camaro or Vette Motor in there!" ) hahaha.....

But really, I just want to see you doing a nasty burn out video! :D

Hope all is well, T!

Its at my buddies shop getting finished being sprayed with bedliner (I don't want my other car anywhere near that overspray) and when it comes back I will be able to do the updates. I would definitely recommend finding a vette motor.

Does anyone know what the pressure on the factory 22re steering pump is? I was just going to try and use the S10 pump but realized it might still have a higher pressure than the factory yota box.

Well I'm finishing up the final details of the project and it doesn't look like it is going to work. The 5 inches I have for a radiator and electric fan just doesn't seem to be enough to fit anything capable of cooling the lsx motor. If anyone has ideas let me know, otherwise I might have to sell the shell :/

Check out some of the "thin design" AFCO fans. I have one in a 36 Dodge with 4.8 truck LS. Rad, fan and shroud are no more than 5". Plus, you can gain an inch or so by offsetting the fan motor from the snout of the water pump.

Don't give up on it yet, there has got to be some set up out there that will work or you. Can you post up some picture of your engine bay and what you have to work with??

I have 5 inches to the water pump nub. My two radiators are 3 inches deep, one is 19 inches wide and fits better, the other is about 22 or 23. 19 is max height. The 19 one has brackets that go a bit too deep but I can hack them off and try to fashion a new bracket for it. I found a massive ford fan that is about 3.5" deep.

If I could find a 11 inch tall and 20 wide radiator that was 3 or 4 inch depth it could fit with more room as it could sit against the AC condenser.


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http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/60187.html is so close :( Also holy S%&* its over 700 dollars which is more than what I paid for my complete motor and tranny...