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My fuel filter (which has since been replaced by a much bigger and better one right after the lift pump) I originally intended to use the stock crossover pipe, but it's turn down on the passenger side inhibited smooth intake ducting. I had some 2" exhaust pipe laying around the shop, so I fabricated another one. The completed crossover pipe installed, and painted
Snorkel time! As with all swaps, performance mods are to be expected. And a Cold air intake is always the first thing on my list. A snorkel seemed to be the way to go, so I built a mock-up pattern what I wanted out of PVC. I had a muffler shop bend it out of 3" exhaust pipe for Max free flow. A CAT pre-cleaner tops it off
Everything’s looking good so far, how’s it coming along since your last post?
Sorry for the delinquency in posting, I'm like 5 months behind. It's currently running and driving. I'll be bringing everything up to speed on the build shortly.
Since the original bumper was destroyed, I pulled one off a '96 4Runner. I never liked having the blinkers only in the bumper, I replaced them with LED light bar chunks, and wired the marker lights for blinkers. Front lights got a makeover with LED strips.
Last edited by Rustbucket1990; 05-18-2018 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: More information
The engine compartment as it looks now. You can see that the battery and air cleaner box are on opposite sides from their stock locations. This is because, the starter is on the opposite side of the V6, and I didn't want a lot of extra piping for the intake. The exhaust is also on the opposite side of stock, which puts my turbo on the passenger side.
All of the intake piping is in place with a VW Jetta intercooler right next to my remote oil filter.
January 6 2018, I still hadn't gotten my 4wd working, clutch bled, or shifter levers properly fastened. But, being 6 months behind schedule this thing had to roll. So, I drove around the drive, and got stuck in the snow. Still lots of loose ends to tie up, but, The first drive under it's own power had been accomplished!
Temporary bed. Just something to get me by until I go back to Tennessee for the real thing. My tail lights are LED trailer lights: they're SUPER bright!
I guess I forgot to put pictures of my air filter box, so, here you go.
I removed the battery, took a piece of cardboard and cut it to a profile and made a pattern for the top, and bottom plates. I had a bunch of plexiglass laying around, so, that is what I used. The filter in the picture was just an approximate guess a friend found at the scrapyard, and not what filters my air now.
After taking measurements, side pieces were cut, and the whole thing rough assembled. I created L brackets to brace all of the corners. Holes were then drilled in both box and brackets for the steel roofing screws I used to fastener the box together.
Air from the snorkel comes through a hole in the fender via a 90° silicone elbow. All of the seams are sealed with RTV silicone.
Screws through the bottom of the box hold it in place.
Ok, I've driven it many miles, and it was my daily driver until an O-ring in my oil filter relocation device blew out. Since I didn't have an oil pressure guage I didn't catch it in time and the engine seized up. Simple problem, expensive fix.
So I've since rebuilt the engine, and put 20 mi on it in the brakes in process. I learned from my mistake a added an oil pressure guage. This leads me to my current problem. While driving yesterday I noticed my EGT climbing along with my water temp. My oil pressure which normally runs between 60&85 PSI started to drop. I shut down when it got below 20. After it cooled down, I started it back up, but no PSI. This morning it jumped up to 35, but began falling again. I'm going to check my sump screen and go for thicker oil. If that's not the fix, I'm not sure what to do next. My EGT is still 400°F at idle, and the water climbs out of 180° right after start-up.
Last edited by Rustbucket1990; 10-25-2018 at 03:40 PM.
Reason: Forgot stuff
Actually, the factory oil pressure is supposed to be between 34 and 86psi. But, I have no way to use the factory gage because my cluster wasn't made with one, and I didn't wire it in.
To answer your question, yes, I did get it sorted out. Earlier in the build I added a remote oil filter system. When I rebuilt the engine the remote got hooked up in reverse, causing all of the oil to be run through the PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) because of the check valve in my filter. As the oil starvation continued to progress, the crank to bearing tolerances widened causing the oil pressure to drop dramatically. The high EGT can also be explained by the squirters not cooling the bottoms of the Pistons, allowing them to retain more heat than normal.
Fortunately however, the crank was still grindable, and eBay had main bearings. The rod end bearings were a little bit of a problem. I accidentally ordered 2L bearings instead of 3L and ended up with ones that are too small. King bearings in New Jersey made the ones I waited 3weeks to get from the UK, so I just contacted the roof dealer, and had them drop shipped directly to me. Now I'm waiting for rod end bolts.
As long as I've been running this truck, I've had a leak (small annoying drip) from my turbo's oil drain. RTV helped for a while, but the leak came back. So, I decided to eliminate the problem with some might wire. The threaded elbow welded and ground into the flange plate The flange was originally held down by 2 bolts, but with the elbow welded directly in the way of one hole, I needed a stud. Home Depot had an M6 machine screw plenty long enough. I cut the head off, and threaded it in to get an accurate measurement, then cut it to the correct length leaving a few threads to spare.
The cut off end went into the turbo, then double nutted a tightened down. RTV was used in the flange, and the whole thing got bolted into place. Now I hope that it. Won't leak again!
I had a 3L that I turbo’d and beat on for about a year before I swapped and I never installed any kind of check valve and 3Ls don’t have oil squirters that I know of, I’m pretty sure they started with the 1kz. I had mine tee’d to the alternator though.
I had a 3L that I turbo’d and beat on for about a year before I swapped and I never installed any kind of check valve and 3Ls don’t have oil squirters that I know of, I’m pretty sure they started with the 1kz. I had mine tee’d to the alternator though.
Most modern oil filters have check valves in them, and that's what caused my problem. I was trying to push oil through it backwards by hooking it up in reverse. Im not sure but, all of the mechanics I've talked to about this, have called these things oil squirters.
maybe I've got some kind of Frankenmotor after all🙂
Unfortunately I think I destroyed the tach, so, I'll have to replace it. But that means tearing apart my dash to get it out, and right now finding time to work on it is a real bear!
03-06-2018, 02:39 PM
