1UZ to 86 T4R 22re Dual Case 4x4
05-22-2013, 06:54 AM
#42
Registered User
I didn't want the body lift because my truck already sat up higher than I want it to, and it still wouldn't change the horsecollar location on the frame. I mounted the engine pretty low but it does tilt back a bit....maybe 2 degrees.
The parking brake was actually pretty simple for me due to the rear axle I am using. It's from a 2000 4Runner which has the pull handle in between the seats under the center console so the e-brake cables on it were already where I needed them. There aren't any brackets or anything under the truck other than what's mounted on the axle. I used the pull handle from the Lexus since it was more of a side mounted design than the 4Runner'ss handle and I just fabbed up a way to mount it in the floor section I made. works great. It would be a bit better if I had mounted it forward about an inch from where I did but it holds the truck.
Apparently I didn't include a pic of it in my build thread on yotatech. Here it is.
The parking brake was actually pretty simple for me due to the rear axle I am using. It's from a 2000 4Runner which has the pull handle in between the seats under the center console so the e-brake cables on it were already where I needed them. There aren't any brackets or anything under the truck other than what's mounted on the axle. I used the pull handle from the Lexus since it was more of a side mounted design than the 4Runner'ss handle and I just fabbed up a way to mount it in the floor section I made. works great. It would be a bit better if I had mounted it forward about an inch from where I did but it holds the truck.
Apparently I didn't include a pic of it in my build thread on yotatech. Here it is.
Last edited by toyminator2000; 05-22-2013 at 07:16 AM.
05-22-2013, 10:57 AM
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
Man, I got till 5pm today to decide. (my schedule) and I’m debating on which to go with, a body lift or a cut the floor.. I don’t think cutting the floor would be any difficult than adding a BL. That BL will tweek everything I have now with welded sliders, welded front bumper armor, rear bumper, steering shaft, etc.. Seems to be more work than just cutting a whole and adding a few sheet metals… I leaning towards your route since its less work. Unless I’m mistaken.
05-22-2013, 02:24 PM
#45
Registered User
Man, I got till 5pm today to decide. (my schedule) and I’m debating on which to go with, a body lift or a cut the floor.. I don’t think cutting the floor would be any difficult than adding a BL. That BL will tweek everything I have now with welded sliders, welded front bumper armor, rear bumper, steering shaft, etc.. Seems to be more work than just cutting a whole and adding a few sheet metals… I leaning towards your route since its less work. Unless I’m mistaken.
You're gonna need to cut the horsecollar either way to get it to fit right and it's a lot easier to re-weld some plate to re-connect it up higher if the floor is cut. just my 2 cents.
05-23-2013, 05:02 AM
#48
Registered User
You should probably do something to shore up the strength in that horsecollar too. The pic I showed you I only had the capped off ends welded to it where I cut it. I also welded a piece of 1x3 rectangle tube to re-connected it together.
05-23-2013, 07:20 PM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Hampton VA
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The part on the compressor that you have interference with the steering is a high pressure blow valve. It is designed to blow off pressure from the high side of the AC system in case of an over pressure issue. It is really 2 fold, if pressure reaches around 600 PSI it will open, venting the freon to atmosphere. If the pressure reaches much higher than that there is a risk that something will give way. If it blows a compressor or line, then it may ingest the freon in the engine. Back in the days of R-12 the Phosgene gas would be produced and it is extemly deadly. With 134a the risk is reduced, but either way it is still not good.
If the evaporator core or expansion valve were to rupture you take a risk of having freon flood the passenger compartment, this could also happen if the high side hose ruptures and it is sucked in via the blower motor and fresh air duct. While the valve does not look important, it plays a very passive and important role that is unknown to most people.
It may be possible to remove it and cap it if it is threaded. But I would make sure to have a high pressure cutoff switch in the system. Or you may have to change the mounting bracket to make room. It is extremly rare to have one actually blow off high pressure, but it does happen from time to time.
Hope that helps, good luck with the swap!
If the evaporator core or expansion valve were to rupture you take a risk of having freon flood the passenger compartment, this could also happen if the high side hose ruptures and it is sucked in via the blower motor and fresh air duct. While the valve does not look important, it plays a very passive and important role that is unknown to most people.
It may be possible to remove it and cap it if it is threaded. But I would make sure to have a high pressure cutoff switch in the system. Or you may have to change the mounting bracket to make room. It is extremly rare to have one actually blow off high pressure, but it does happen from time to time.
Hope that helps, good luck with the swap!
05-28-2013, 05:50 PM
#53
Registered User
I'm using a Flex a lite model 118 slim line 16" cooling fan set up as a puller and It works fine...never had a problem with it getting hotter than halfway on the temp gauge. I didn't hook up my A/C but I have a big Warn Winch in front of the radiator blocking the air, and an 11"x11" tranny cooler.
Last edited by toyminator2000; 05-28-2013 at 05:54 PM.
06-07-2013, 06:28 PM
#58
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
on the delete trac check on lextreme for the thread.
it will throw a code. i think its p0047. if you plan to ref it. take a look before you start cutting the wires.
my wires were extended to under the passanger seat and built a bracket for it since i am running obd2 as well.
it will throw a code. i think its p0047. if you plan to ref it. take a look before you start cutting the wires.
my wires were extended to under the passanger seat and built a bracket for it since i am running obd2 as well.
06-12-2013, 09:43 PM
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
toyminator2000, do you by chance have the wiring pin-outs for the auto shifter you installed? I have the same shifter and having a hard time locating a color code wiring. I've found some wiring diagram but didnt match up with mines.
