Vasinvictor's budget 98/3.4/Auto into 95/3.0/Auto
03-10-2012, 07:19 PM
#61
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Vasinvictor- Could you tell me how you wired your park/ neutral position switch? I have a 98 3.4 going into a 91 runner. If I am reading the wire schematics right it looks like the E12 connector 1,10 and 15 are spliced into the wire coming from the combometer connector C19 and then connecting to the II3 connector 3,4 and 19 thats wired to the P/N switch. To me it looks weird cause I can't see any combo connectors (C19) that are tied into the engine harness. Could this just be a mistake made by the people who drew the schematics? You would think that the wires coming from the park/ neutral switch be already tied into the engine harness and its all plug and play from there. Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by Ahbustae86; 03-10-2012 at 07:22 PM.
03-10-2012, 07:25 PM
#62
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Vasinvictor- Could you tell me how you wired your park/ neutral position switch? I have a 98 3.4 going into a 91 runner. If I am reading the wire schematics right it looks like the E12 connector 1,10 and 15 are spliced into the wire coming from the combometer connector C19 and then connecting to the II3 connector 3,4 and 19. To me it looks weird cause I can't see any combo connectors (C19) that are tied into the engine harness. Could this just be a mistake made by the people who drew the schematics? You would think that the wires coming from the park/ neutral switch be already tied into the engine harness and its all plug and play from there. Any help would be appreciated.
03-13-2012, 10:04 PM
#64
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I figured it out. The person who took out the engine and harness didn't tell me that the E12 was from the dash harness. I thought it was cut from the engine harness. I'm doing the Auto to Auto and there isn't much info about the wiring of this swap.
03-13-2012, 10:09 PM
#65
That's good to hear. There's not a lot of info on the auto but it's not too much different than the manual swap. Just a few different components and less documented. Thankfully most of the complex auto components are touch free and contained in the doner engine harness.
03-21-2012, 05:32 PM
#67
Refer to "dntsdad" "swap 101" https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-101-a-239002/ sticky thread at the top. It doesn't get any simpler than his explanation.
Last edited by vasinvictor; 03-21-2012 at 05:34 PM.
04-11-2012, 11:04 AM
#69
Just a small update, but I just completed the "tach mod". 
Pro tip here: don't try to trim both end of the resistor, make the bends, and hold it down and solder at the same time. Trim one leg off short, solder that end to the board. Then bend the resistor to the correct position, trim and solder. Don't ax me how I know
Other than that, I'm doing some parts trading, house buying, and trying to get a top shift transfer case and trans adapter in the process. Other than that, the only notable thing is that since I am using the wrong transfer case and a "custom" adapter, my pinion angle must be off a bit. I get some vibes above 55 mph.
Pro tip here: don't try to trim both end of the resistor, make the bends, and hold it down and solder at the same time. Trim one leg off short, solder that end to the board. Then bend the resistor to the correct position, trim and solder. Don't ax me how I know
Other than that, I'm doing some parts trading, house buying, and trying to get a top shift transfer case and trans adapter in the process. Other than that, the only notable thing is that since I am using the wrong transfer case and a "custom" adapter, my pinion angle must be off a bit. I get some vibes above 55 mph.
04-15-2012, 03:53 PM
#70
I've been trying to wire up my shift lock solenoid to work factory-like. Until this point I've been pushing the shift lock release button. The 1998 diagrams didn't have any of the correct colors for the input to the shift lock computer. Cadman posted a diagram he made here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51903195 which should have worked. I could hear the clicking in the dash, but the shift lock would still not release. I got tired of messing with it, and I guess a little lazy too, so to avoid having to keep on pushing the shift lock release button, I just removed the locking actuator. Click on the like above to see how. You still have to push the shifter button down to get it into gear with it removed, which is the only safety feature I wanted to keep. I also wired up the shifter illumination, O/D lockout, rear window switch, and ECT switch. Works for me 
05-14-2012, 05:19 PM
#73
so you swapped the compete 3.4 with its automatic trans and tcase. you dont need any wheel speed sensors or anything that wasnt on your runner to make it work? i need it to pass smog since im in CA
05-15-2012, 08:16 PM
#75
Quite a few reasons actually. Most people that have used the stocker have had tranny issues shortly thereafter. I never did care for the way the stocker shifted. The newer one is much more crisp and deliberate in its shifts. Lastly, I want the beefy rf1a gear drive case and it's options for gears and twin sticks. I agree I could have saved some time and coin using the original.
However the original trans looked like it had had gear oil in it, or possibly extremely burnt trans fluid and judging from the 3.0 motor's condition it wouldn't have even been good in the first place.
I just got my top shift and will be ordering the Marlin "Tacoma adapter" very soon. Stay tuned.
However the original trans looked like it had had gear oil in it, or possibly extremely burnt trans fluid and judging from the 3.0 motor's condition it wouldn't have even been good in the first place.
I just got my top shift and will be ordering the Marlin "Tacoma adapter" very soon. Stay tuned.
05-15-2012, 08:19 PM
#76
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Quite a few reasons actually. Most people that have used the stocker have had tranny issues shortly thereafter. I never did care for the way the stocker shifted. The newer one is much more crisp and deliberate in its shifts. Lastly, I want the beefy rf1a gear drive case and it's options for gears and twin sticks. I agree I could have saved some time and coin using the original.
However the original trans looked like it had had gear oil in it, or possibly extremely burnt trans fluid and judging from the 3.0 motor's condition it wouldn't have even been good in the first place.
I just got my top shift and will be ordering the Marlin "Tacoma adapter" very soon. Stay tuned.
However the original trans looked like it had had gear oil in it, or possibly extremely burnt trans fluid and judging from the 3.0 motor's condition it wouldn't have even been good in the first place.
I just got my top shift and will be ordering the Marlin "Tacoma adapter" very soon. Stay tuned.
I will be using the R150F but more for mileage than reliability / performance.
Get us some pics ASAP! =P
Last edited by Vudujoose; 05-15-2012 at 08:21 PM.
05-15-2012, 08:21 PM
#77
All that info is this thread I hope you've had the chance to read thru it. There are also many many threads here regarding keeping you smog legal. Basically involves having the right crossover configuration and all emissions system workin which is not too hard.
05-15-2012, 08:46 PM
#78
either way ill keep checking your thread for more info. thanks again and good job
Last edited by ToyoTech559; 05-15-2012 at 08:49 PM.
05-15-2012, 08:54 PM
#79
Smog systems are the same for 5 speed and auto. I did not put the EVAP box back in but it's be as easy as plugging it in the routing the hoses. Auto swap is more involved but not where smog is concerned.
I hope to have some more updates soon, and thanks.
I hope to have some more updates soon, and thanks.
Last edited by vasinvictor; 05-15-2012 at 08:57 PM.
06-15-2012, 10:53 PM
#80
I finally purchased an Inchworm auto adapter. I'm using the top shift in the stock 21 spline configuration.
Does anyone know if I'm going to have to get lengthened and shortened driveshafts for this?
Also I would like to clock the transfer case. What modification is required to do this other than the adapter?
Does anyone know if I'm going to have to get lengthened and shortened driveshafts for this?
Also I would like to clock the transfer case. What modification is required to do this other than the adapter?
