Oregon'sLoneWolf

Well, here we go, yet another 3.4 swap......or so I hope. For the record, I don't know what the heck I am doing with any of this. This entire project is a learning process for me as the most I have ever done was change a timing belt. I call this project something to check off of my bucket list as I have always wanted to learn how to really work on cars. Everyone's help is greatly appreciated. My purpose for this threat is to share my experience, and most important, a place for me to think out loud and take notes.

With 203,000 miles on my ever faithful 94 MT 3.0, I figured since I had the cash I would source a 3.4 and take the plunge into more power and of course better gas mileage then the 12 mpg I was enduring with my 32" tires and the gutless 3.0. Now, if I can just keep the head gasket from blowing before I have it in I will be a happy camper.

So off I went and found a 97 donor with 97,000 miles, a 97 MT ECU and the plugs. The yard said it would not have the harness, but I suppose they decided to include it plugs intact. However, they said it would be the complete engine, but looks like I will have to swap over the needed parts and get the brackets for the alternator and the MAF. I figured I would leave it wrapped for now.



Man those plugs look huge!! Now it is off to get all of the diagrams I don't know how to read, and the service manuals. I might just get lucky with the excel doc from the 3.4 swap 101 post but will have to double check things. :-)

They said it had a tick, so I am assuming it will need a valve adjustment or perhaps the flex plate was cracked in the other tranny. Who knows. I sure hope it doesn't have a spun bearing or something else. I will check the valve clearance just in case and hope it was just the flex plate it they are in spec. With the mileage, I might just get lucky with the timing belt and find a new one in there if it was changed at 65,000. At $1250 shipped, I figured I got a decent deal if it is only a valve adjustment...........crossing my fingers!!!!

I will admit, this is WAY out of my league of experience, already I have a headache thinking of the problems I might have. Thanks to the fine write ups by several people, I am optimistic it will be a success. If not, I have toyonlyswaps south of me to bail me out as a last resort.

Wish me luck guys! I will need it.

84dreamyoda

Nice good luck.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Good to see another swap going. I would say if your truck is still drivable then take your time with the swap, like do the wiring or at least have a good grasp on it first. It will look overwhelming but it's not that bad. I myself even thought about paying to have my wiring done, but after I saw you still had to do some wiring after spending that much money no thanks. I'm glad I done the wiring myself. I had zero experience with wring before my swap.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you get all the accessories for the 3.4 motor. Evap and 02 sensors included as well. How much did you pay for what you got?

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Thanks, man, I'll need it.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Yeah, that was the plan was to get it before I had problems with the head gasket etc. I'm going to take my time as I am pretty new to all of this but have been reading for a couple months. It is my DD so, I best get it done right the first time.

Good to hear you had zero experience with the wiring and was able to pull it off. It is a bit scary, but, nothing ventured, nothing gained. In the end, I will have learned so much I am sure. I can feel the gray hair coming out already.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Well, for starters, the motor put me down $1200 shipping included from Chicago. $75 for the ECU and $30 for the plugs. I knew about the tick as the reason for the price. Comp test was at 185 across....factory I think is 218 psi.? I'll start running high mileage oil to fill the gap. Any other motor might have needed a valve adjustment anyway.

I had seen others, but they had between 150-175g on the odometer complete for about $1400-$1500 without shipping and they were all in front end accidents. This was from side rear impact only. With a verified 97,000 miles I figured it was worth it to get another 11 years out of her....It's a Toyota after all. I will need the MAF, O2 sensors, and evap like you mentioned and other stuff I can't think of for now like the amsoil filter and the aftermarket intake. What do you recommend? I will send off for the crossover pipe to Toyonlyswaps.

And it will get a new clutch, timing belt and H20 pump if it wasn't changed at 65,000 miles. Anything else you can think of would be a big help!!

I think for $2500 or so I can get er done with $300 to spare for the first road trip into the woods.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I paid $1500 for a motor and all the accessories. With all the new parts I was into it $2100

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Very cool! Yeah, these sure do hold their value. I may have put my end cost a little on the high side, but I'll be putting in a new alternator and starter, something I have not changed since I have had my rig with 114g miles. Damn this rig was reliable..........never once let me down in the 6 years I have owned it....not even a jump start!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I wish you the best of Luck!!

Do you have another vehicle to drive.

Doing the swap is not really that hard for some of us just takes time.

I sure would not want the added pressure of having to rush to get back on the road.

Your re pinning the automatic harness to the manual ECM??

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Thanks for the luck, I need all I can get as honestly, I have no idea WTF I'm doing. Nothing ventured, nothing gained right? Well for now, she is running strong with the 3.0 so thank goodness I have some wheels while I work on the engine and getting the necessary parts and researching the journey. Who knows, maybe I can off it for a couple hundred on CL.

Lucky for me, everything in my small town is within a mile R/T, so it will be a good excuse to get out and hoof it for a while. I'm in no rush, but I financially planned/timed this to have it done before winter. Due to the heat, I aimed for a fall project. It hardly rains here so I am golden in 75-80 degree weather.

Yup, taking the plunge by re pinning it myself....I have time to learn and with the harness now off the engine, I can do it inside on the kitchen table. Being single allows me luxuries like that. I still don't quite understand the dash harness wiring as I haven't read that part covered. hmmm

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Well, I took the time today to tear into my 500 lb. paper weight as I was told it had a tick. Figured it was in need of a valve adjustment, I wanted to change the valve gaskets while it was out anyway, change the timing belt, H20 pump, bla. bla, bla...so..., off came some parts.


Was really happy to see how clean it was under the valve covers for 97,000 miles.


seeing this was gnar as I saved some time and $ not having to drill through 2 inches of cast iron.


I was kinda hoping the timing belt would have been changed at 65,000 but no such luck. NO big deal, I have a complete kit being shipped with a Aisin H20 pump and all the goodies for $165.00. I'll get the other belts later. Picked up some NGK plugs and wires with the new Valve cover gaskets too. In addition, I have a TB, Evap charcoal box, 97 3.4 PS pump , and other things on the way.

As it didn't come with the 3.4 flywheel, and it will be getting a new clutch, I'm debating just sticking to the 3.0 flywheel and the clutch for the 94. Would it be to my advantage to just get the 3.4 flywheel and the clutch? I don't plan on wheeling it too much so I think I will be OK if I go with the Aisin clutch for the 94 R150...........hmmmm. Would the difference in HP make that much difference on the 3.0 clutch set up? Any thoughts? Has anyone had any experience with KOPP brand stage 1 clutch Kits? I think it is rated at 1200 Lb....and Marlin is out of their clutch kits that I wanted with that rating.

Tomorrow I'll check the clearances and find out which exhaust shims are too tight. Maybe I will get lucky and find the stealership open to get the shims.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I will comment about your clutch question. I used all 3.0 clutch stuff as my 3.4 came from an auto. I'm using the basic replacement clutch from a local drivetrain shop.
I think the differences in the 3.4 vs 3.0 clutches is the holding pressure, they are not bigger.
I would have bought Marlins 1200lb clutch for the 3.0 but they were out of stock. I think you will be fine with a 3.0 clutch

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

the surface area is slightly greater on 3.4, not much but it is

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I found a thread on upgrading the clutch on a 3.0 t100 to a clutch for a 3.4. But that's where I got that info from, good to know the truth lol

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Enjoy your project and take your time. Took me a year to collect everything I needed.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Yeah, I had to same thought due to the increased HP and torque produced by the 3.4. Perhaps I can source just a SECO disk like Marlin uses for a 3.4 and get a pilot bearing for the 3.4 (wait part numbers are the same as the 3.0) and keep the other 3.0 parts. Hmm I would save money, but not sure if they are compatible, I am guessing they would be.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

I would be interested in seeing that threat Jason.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Thanks Blue!

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Well to kick off this post, I would like to wish you all a happy Labor Day in style! Yes, I was one apple cider short of a six pack as usual.


For this post, I would like to give credit to PismoJoe for his write up on doing a valve shim adjustment. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...t-tech-226997/ It gave me a good understanding on what to do but I tweeked it as my engine is assembled. I will be sharing with everyone the worksheet I designed that kept things more organized in my head, or should I say, OUT of my head. See next post.

Yesterday I worked on getting the gaps checked and I am stoked to say, I think I found the ticking problem they mentioned at the wrecking yard. First off, I think there is a good lesson here on NOT torquing the spark plugs to 45 lbs like I found in the number one cylinder. This must have been a Monday repair as someone was pissed when they put that one in.

Anyway, it must have created more heat as the spark plug electrode was black in comparison to the other grey ones due to it being closer to the piston. My reading at these exhaust shims were .004in and .008in when the correct clearance should be .014 (.015). Safe to say I found the tick. I just hope I don't have a burnt valve as a result. I'll Sea Foam a couple times through the brake booster hose to clean off the valve stems as there might be a good amount of soot accumulation at this stem. I look forward to the white plum of smoke to fill my neighborhood.

All of the intakes were in middle of the tolerance range, but ALL of my exhaust valves were at or OUT of tolerance range from .004 to .017. (exhaust tolerance is .011-.014 (.015). I will be replacing the 3 shims with a gap of .011 to keep these from going out of spec in the near future since I am in there.