Sas954unner

Before I move on from here I'm planning on trimming a few wires and rerouting others between themselves and re-soldering and shrink wrapping it as well as documenting every connection I made as i go along trimming and perfecting it.i hope its a helping hand to others doing the same swap and also as a backup reference for somebody else doing a 95-99swap

SacRunner

Nice work on the harness.

I would suggest you leave it as is for now, until at least you can verify that it (1) starts the 3.4, (2) keeps it running, (3) no codes are thrown after a handful of starts and a couple small trips, and finally (4) that everything is exactly as you want it.

You can spend lots of time now cleaning it up, shortening wires, and making everything perfect but if you find out later (knock on wood) that you crossed a couple wires or missed something, it's going to be all that much more work to correct it. Not to mention the possibility of 1-2 wires being shorter than all the others and then the desire to clean it up again.

Proof out all the circuits in that harness, verify that each and every wire is correct then clean it up and make it look pretty, but for now, you just need to make sure it works.

....but that could just be the engineer in me (and past experiences) talking.

Sas954unner

I'm pretty good with soldering plus I'm already past the point (I hope) of fixing my connections. So now my rough finish has some haggard looking joints where I wrapped a wire over an already exhisting connection. Now I'm going to proof every connection and one by one desolder/trim/reroute them within themselves to give it an overall nice appearance(I'm a perfectionist when it comes to wiring) plus once I've proofed all of my connections then I can (in theory)move on with confidence to the simple COR rewiring/swap.

That's my thought process on it anyway.
From here it (should) be smooth sailing

Also I'm definitely going to throw codes I left the a/c,add,abs,cruise and srs disconnected.

Mostly because I couldn't find srs in my 3vze chassis, cruise I don't need because anything over 50 in this truck feels sketchy, I think because my power steering pump runs from the pump to a junction box on my pass side an then to my steering box on the driver side plus no steering damper and 35's. the add and abs isint used because I have an 84 front axle. And no a/c because I need to get a few parts together before I can hook it back up

Sas954unner

Okay so here is the breakdown of the basic wiring conversion from a 1995 3vze to a 1999 5vzfe
I’ve excluded the wiring for the A/C, the ADD(automatic disconnecting differential),cruise control,abs and srs. Mainly because im only going to get the A/c and cruise working at a later date. The rest I will not be using. For now I just want to get this thing up and going so I have a daily driver.

(IH1-1) This sends a -12v supply to your transfer case sensors. Once the sensor makes contact it sends the negative signal back through the wire harness by means of your ih2 plug and makes your 4wd light turn on.
This wire will be hooked up to (113-17) this wire carries the -12v supply to your 4wd sensors
as well as (D7-4) which is the -12v supply to your diagnostic port

(IH1-3) This wire runs to the -12v side of your check engine light. Since the CEL in your combination meter is already powered on the +12v side this wire is what actually turns the CEL on via your ecu.
This wire will be hooked up to(E114-6) directly from the ecu this wire will send -12v out when it indicates there is a problem that requires the CEL to come on.

(IH1-5) This wire gets +12v power when you depress your brakes, it gets connected to (E114-15) which receives this +12v to your 5vzfe ecu

(IH1-6) This wire is tied into the same +12v that powers your fuel pump. Only when the fuel pump has power does this wire have power and it runs to a diagnostic port on the 3vze chassis. I have yet to find a use for this wire

*(IH1-7) A/C amplifier wire <act> to (E112-13) <act>

*(IH1-8) ABS wire <ts> to (113-4) ABS ecu <ts>

*(IH1-9) ABS wire <tc> to (113-23) ABS <tc>

(IH1-10)This wire is tied directly to +12v power via your 15a efi fuse. This wire is tied to 2 wires (E14-1) This is your <batt> terminal of your ecu. and (E14-2) which is labeled <IGSW> on your ecu.

(IH1-14) This comes from your ignition switch. Once the ignition is turned on it receives +12v power
This wire it is tied (113-8) This powers your injectors

(IH1-16) This wire gets +12v when the EFI relay makes contact. This wire will be hooked up to (113-16) this wire carries +12v supply voltage to your mass air meter,o2 sensor and a few others it is also connected to (B14-16) <b+> on your ecu

(IH1-20)This wire is connected to your speedometer on your dash it gets connected to (E12-22) which is your speedometer signal wiring coming out of the ECU

(IH1-22)This wire is connected to you start switch when you turn the key to engage the starter this wire gets +12v. This wire is also a bit tricky. Since the old wireharness had a started signal wire inside it and your new engine harness does not, your only option is to run your own starter wire. Now we cant forget about this wire entirely because it also needs to be hooked up to your ECU specifically (E14-7) your ecu also wants to know when your turning the key. So you make this a double connection one to a starter signal wire into the engine compartment and the other to e14-7

(IH1-23)This wire runs to your Circuit Opening Relay however since I’m swapping in the 99 COR Im attaching this wire to (E14-3) This will send the -12v signal wire to my newly wired in COR

*(IH2-2)ADD-not used

(IH2-5) This wire gets power when the EFI relay make contact I have this wired to (D7-16) this is my diagnostic port and this particular port supplies the +12v to the code scanner while its running a diagnostic

*(IH2-6)A/C amplifier <acv> to (E12-25) <ac-1>

(IH2-7) This sends +12v power to an internal switch in your transmission it gets connected to (113-20)

(IH2-8)This receives the +12v power when you put the vehicle in reverse and sends it to the reverse lights. So it will go to (113-19) when the vehicle is put in reverse this wire will send the +12v needed.

(IH2-10) This wire is connected to the 4wd light on your dashboard when it receives -12v it lights up
this will be connected to (113-9) when the vehicle is put into 4wd this wire will send the -12v from the transfer case switch

(IH2-11) This wire is connected to your oil pressure gauge on your dashboard it gets attached to(113-22)
which comes from the oil pressure sensor on your engine. Don’t forget to swap you old 3vze sensor into your 5vze because you have a oil pressure gauge and the 5ve only came with a dummy light.

(IH2-14) This wire is connected to your water temperature gauge on your dashboard it goes to (113-21) which is the wire that comes from your water temperature sensor on your block

*(IH2-15) A/C clutch wire to (113-25) a/c comp clutch

*(IH2-17) Cruise Control ecu <idl> to (E12-4) <idlo>

(IH2-20) this wire runs to your tachometer it goes to (113-15) which comes from your 5vzfe ignitor.
I still have to find a solid link to the 10k resistor mod

(D7-5) this wire goes to (113-18) it’s grounded to your intake manifold


(D7-7) this wire goes to (E-14) this is your actual line that communicates with your ecu its got shielding wire around it so I suggest your ground the shielding wire.

(113-6) <hts> connected to (E12-9) <hts>

(113-13) <oxs> connected to (E12-9) <oxs>

(113-14)<ptnk> connected to (E14-17) <ptnk>

(113-26) <tpc> connected to (E14-9) <tpc>

and that about wraps it up!

Sas954unner

Harness has been triple checked and wiring cleaned up

Sas954unner

All cleaned up

Sas954unner

Second run at making this damn crossover pipe

Sas954unner

Crossover is done!

Sas954unner

10k resistor installed in tach
I used a 1/2 watt 10k from RadioShack

I also deaoldered the resistor that was on the inside and soldered the 10k on the inside and then flipped the smaller resistor to the back side of the pcb.
After soldering I continuity tested all my connections and re-assembled

Sas954unner

Yesterday I cleaned the engine bay and started prepping the 5vzfe to go in
(Swapped oil pressure sensors,pulled both oil pans,got the new exhaust studs in and secured the crossover pipe) today I've got to switch the dipstick around and put my pan and new gasket on as well as run a new fuel line( I don't want to but the ors fuel line so in running a longer hard line from my fuel filter to the top of my firewall so it will reach my new 3.4 fuel line. She's coming along day by day!

Sas954unner

Motor is in!

Sas954unner

She's alive!!!

mussy01

iTrader: (2)

There you go!!

Making it look like a breeze. Hows it running? How was the clearance on your exhaust crossover?

Thanks again for all the info you put in your thread on the wiring.

Sas954unner

No problem! And it runs perfect! The clearance was another story, I ended up not clearing so I pulled the motor out and coerced the firewall with a large rubber mallet

Sas954unner

View My Video

Sas954unner

Sas954unner

well the swap is done but for some reason the clutch is slipping HORRIBLY.
Ordering a new clutch tonight. All this work just to do more

Red Wagon

Subbed.

Wiring looks fun.... Thanks for the thread. Nice work.

Forgive the ignorance but what did you change on your second crossover?

Sas954unner

Ended up running a 3vz flywheel,clutch and slave and the clutch works perfect now
Also on the crossover my initial pipe was back flowing into itself so I had to cut it apart and put a better angle on where the 2 pipes meet, to eliminate any chances of a hot cylinder.

Red Wagon

Ahh I get it, the angle is steeper.

I read the advice you got and when I looked at your second attempt I didn't catch on.

Thanks!

Are you quite good at wrenching and welding or still learning? I want to do a 2UZ swap but I am thinking of getting my hands on a 3.4 to rebuild and swap as practice. I want my end goal truck to be perfect.


Oh and did you need a body lift?