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-   -   manual trans issue after swap (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/manual-trans-issue-after-swap-292425/)

mizombie 12-08-2015 10:39 AM

manual trans issue after swap
 
Ok guys, I need a bit of insight. I swapped in a 1996 3.4 to a 1991 3.0 truck.
I used the 3.4 clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Used the 3.0 throw out bearing and transmission.

My issue, I cant shift or go into gear while the engine is running. To me it sounds like the clutch isnt disengaging all the way. But, I dont know the history of the truck and its issues. When I bought it it didnt run. Had 2 rods thrown. I swapped motors and this is where i'm at. Been trying to sort out the ADD and the missing vacuum and wiring issues. I've adjusted the clutch pedal, bled the system. When I attempt to put it in reverse while the motor is running it grinds almost like its still in neutral in 4wd even though its not. The 4wd indicator light stays on, never changes.

Is there a chance the 3.0 throwout bearing is too short? Could the 4wd position switch be keeping it from be able to go into gear?

Just trying to cover things before I have to drop the the trans and transfer, not a lot of time before the bad weather gets here.

wyoming9 12-08-2015 01:14 PM

It could be quite possible.is there a size difference between the 2 different bearings ??

Then did you have the transmission out when doing the swap ??

You did check that it turned nice and smooth ??

Could very well be shot if you never drove the truck .

Did you knock the fork loose when installing things??

Have the correct slave cylinder I have seen different length ones over the years

mizombie 12-08-2015 08:44 PM

Transmission stayed in the truck, everything seemed ok with it. I can back up and pull in and out of the garage with it, just have to start it with the tranny in gear.

The fork all seems to be moving like it should be. when I bled the clutch system we used a 2 man job and I was at the bleeder the whole time. I've pulled back the boot cover and everything looks like it should. Only issue I had with installing the motor was getting the motor and the transmission to line up and far as angle and height.

The master and slave seem to be the originals, Both are Aisin and look pretty old. If they are the originals they have 225k on them. What little has been replaced on the truck at all seems to be of Autozone quality stuff. Could be that the master or slave is bad, everything seems to be working like they should. The fluid was very contaminated. I had to force air back through the system to dislodge all the sediment in the system so I could get fluid at the bleeder.

One things that sits in my mind is the pilot bearing. I am using the 3.4 pilot bearing. Hadn't seen much info on whether or not the 3.0 bearing should be used. I would assume the input shaft should be the diameter as the 3.4 transmissions. just though I would throw that out there.

I dont know the history of the truck or how long its been sitting. I've owned it now for almost 2yrs. I just finally got the time and the extra money to get this one done.

SacRunner 12-08-2015 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by mizombie (Post 52300413)
One things that sits in my mind is the pilot bearing. I am using the 3.4 pilot bearing. Hadn't seen much info on whether or not the 3.0 bearing should be used. I would assume the input shaft should be the diameter as the 3.4 transmissions. just though I would throw that out there.

I don't really have any suggestions for you, but I would strongly doubt the pilot bearing: the same part was used on all pickups/Tacomas and 4Runners with the 22R, 22RE, 3VZ and 5VZ, plus a lot of others.

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...363-12002.html

mizombie 12-09-2015 08:28 AM

I assumed they were the same through all those series. As I said before just covering things.

I think I'm going to rent a friend and his transmission jack and tear it apart on my day off this weekend. Only way i'm going to find out.

mizombie 12-14-2015 10:11 AM

Update, clutch is working and running fine.

I started double checking things before I bothered with dropping the trans and transfer. I noticed the soft section (between the hard lines on firewall) and I noticed that it looked a bit odd. So I replaced it and bled the system again and voila. Guessing its age and being stretched from the body lift did a number on the inside lining.

NoHair 12-14-2015 01:10 PM

Thanks for the update!!
Glad you got it figured out!!

wyoming9 12-15-2015 12:06 AM

Good it works now change the Master and Slave!!

skypilot 12-15-2015 03:13 AM

If that soft line is tight it will fail again. I used a -3an premade hose to solve the problem. My truck had a 4" lift, so race technology to the rescue.

mizombie 12-15-2015 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by skypilot (Post 52301107)
If that soft line is tight it will fail again. I used a -3an premade hose to solve the problem. My truck had a 4" lift, so race technology to the rescue.

I made a stainless braided line at work. Its longer to match the body lift, so I have that covered.

I've got a new master and slave on order. Which I caused a ruckus with the dealership when trying trying to find the slave. FYI its listed as a "hydraulic clutch assist cylinder".


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