Ranscat3

While trying to "tighten" the A6 pin, I broke it. So I went to my piles of extra harnesses and got a new one. Even the right color and soldered it in. I wiggled that wire all over the place and didn't get any idle fluctuation at all. I felt like a kid jumping in that new tree fort testing for sturdiness. I bought an STP air filter, but haven't put it in yet because I'm thinking hard about returning it and putting it towards an Airaid Jr. kit. eBay has em for $161.90.

Ranscat3

Autozone shows pt# 800-1179N as the 230cc fuel injector part number for a 97 3.4 4Runner (ECM)... I'm running 800-1597N, which matches a 03 3.4 Tacoma (donor) and runs 240cc.

My computer should be able to compensate for the small difference right? Or is that why I'm now getting p0172 and the same fuel/comp/misfire/02htr/02snsr/evap inconclusive codes I always get?


...

rworegon

It may be just the angle of the pic, but that exhaust looks really close to the spare tire.

P0172 diagnostic:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...e/cip0171p.pdf

Ranscat3

It is really close to the tire. I told them before to keep it as far away as possible. I think he understood the opposite. Also, I told them to use my flanges and they only used it on the fornt sensor for some reason, the rear they put a bung... so they had to make anoter hole last minute, rather than replacing that section like I asked them to do. Mostly satisifed with their work.

Thanks for the link! We're moving this weekend so my attention will be elsewhere for the most part but I will do my best to get through the steps. There's a newly added T-100 at the Binford junkyard in Kent that nobody's touched. I'll be getting the 4x4 MT ECM, connectors, MAF, TB, Coils, Injectors, and igniter off of it for extras. Unless someone beats me to it before 4PM.

ultimase

How much do they want for the complete intake box and piping with all the silencers?

Ranscat3

So far all I've had time to do is replace the gas cap with a Toyota one. Shot in the dark, and didn't fix anything. I didn't expect it to, but it was worth a try and something that needed done anyway. I bought myself a fuel pressure gauge to go with my wideband and vac. I also got the 3 pod A-Pillar from truckpillars.com; and ordered a fuel new fuel line from Henry's Engineering to add the pressure sender with the same part numbers from Gadget's write up. They knew exactly what to do when I gave them the part numbers from his page. There's been a delay with some of the parts they had to special order to complete my order. I ordered on the 5th, and called on the 12th to check up on the order, they said they'd have it in the mail by Wednesday the 18th.

Still have the P0172, haven't had time to really start troubleshooting that yet. Been riding the motorcycle since we moved and still not unpacked.

Transmission is clicking/grinding softly and rhythmically at low RPM's/acceleration after changing out the old mystery fluid for Royal Purple.

Ranscat3

I swapped the whole evap canister and all sensors. Cleared codes and the P0172 came back after a little driving. I think my box might be hooked up incorrectly. I've looked at many picures, my uncle's 3rd gen, and many junkyard motors, but could someone break it down Barney style for me on what hoses go where on the 3.4 box? I think I might have the tank breather messed up. I'll try to get some more work done along side the 3.4 swap and axle repairs.

Most of the pictures in the threads I'm finding are dead. I think I'll pick up a manual for the diagram, since I'll need it for torque and clearence specs anyway when assembling Jeremy's motor.

Ranscat3

I found a good diagram and figured I had my tank vent and to air vent swapped. Changed it around, still have code. I hooked up the wideband air fuel meter and FPR I've had laying around for a while. A/F is about 14.9-13.7 on the highway. Fuel pressure gauge claims my fuel pressure is 52 PSI. Hmm.




Vac and Fuel senders

I'm doing a 3.4 swap right now for my buddy so since I had the extra parts sitting around; I swapped the MAF and fuel pressure regulator while I had the intake off replacing a heater hose. Fuel pressure and A/F is the same.

P0171 came back on just the same after switching the two hoses. When I replaced the MAF and FPR I added P0130 and P0133 to the mix. I'm thinking swap the MAF back and see if they clear. The bank 1 02 is barely 6mos old form Toyota to match the ECM, I highly doubt it's shot already. I think it's maybe time to try seafoam. Bad injector? I swear I can feel it missing when I'm accelerating up a long steep grade on the highway as part of my commute.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I know this is dumb, and I probably read over it, but are you are running good factory Denso or NGK plugs and wires?

Ranscat3

Dealer (Denso) plugs and NGK wires. I replaced them together about 8,000 miles and 18 mos old.


Here's how they looked last night.


I must have bumped it doing the FPR and MAF the other day, it was very freshly unclipped. I threw the p0171 going into work today. The other two seem to have gone away, I'm guessing from the loose wire.

Ranscat3

Well, it was starting up practically immediately. The last couple days its been taking a few cranks to get it going after it's been sitting a few hours. More like, I crank it until I don't want to crank it anymore comfortably, then it starts right up on the second bump of the key. Fuel pressure seems to have inched up a little more. Almost pushing 58 psi. If my gauge is reading correctly, I assume it is. Talking shop at work, I'm gonna try a new fuel filter. Mine's about 2 years old, has probably 15,000 miles on it. The truck had been sitting for about a year before I got it running and put the new one on in 09/2010

Ranscat3

Something, now that I have the fuel pressure gauge, that caught my eye this time reading over the P0172 diagnostics, from page SF-1:

"Pinch the fuel return hose. The pressure in high
pressure line will rise to approx. 400 kPa (4 kgf/cm2,
57 psi)."

Ranscat3

I asked a friend to pinch my return line with the motor running and my gauge went up to about 85 PSI. (It's a 0-100 gauge). Idle increased slightly when it was pinched.

At home I popped off the return line just before the tank hard line and pressure stayed the same. Blah! I'll try to get in there tomorrow and pop it off just after the regulator to finally rule out a return line pinch/blockage. Maybe I have 2 bad fuel pressure regulators? Seems unlikely to me, and seems awfully high to be just injector blockage. It flowed out of the return line steady, didn't shoot out or drizzle. Blockage in the rail or the hard line that joins the two?

I put in a new fuel filter. It was pretty nasty and surely due. Lots of gray fuel came out the inlet end and some small chunks or nastiness. The result was my fuel pressure increased to 61PSI on startup and about 56 while driving, according to my gauge.

Loss of power I've noticed too. The same steep grade of highway I could glide up at 70+ a few weeks ago I can only get to 59mph in 5th with it floored. Injectors are where I'll be looking next. I'll replace them with an extra set and see if that fixes anything. Those o-rings aren't cheap!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

at this point i say you just find a new engine harness and go from there. I highly recomend you jump on techinfo.toyota.com and download the ewd's from there. I used the diagrams from them all the time without issues.

Ranscat3

I have been to TIS many times, I have all of the EWD's I could ever need. Those wires you see on top, is a second harness. I want to try new injectors, becuase I have an extra set, and then I'll spring for a new 97 or 99 MT (Because I have those 2 ECM's) 4Runner harness if that doesn't work. I don't think it will, but it's something that won't cost me anything to try.

I didn't have any junkyards nearby in the California desert where I was when I did the swap. Sourcing parts was difficult and expensive. Here in the Pacific NW I'm lucky to have many in a very short distance and car-part to guide me.

Ranscat3

A couple of weeks ago I finally located locally and purchased a 1999 MT 4Runner harness. Wired it accordingly for the swap and put it in. I had to change to the 99 style MAF and air-box. It's been running for 2 weeks and I've put a full tank through it. The MPG's are down, but I'm hoping it's due to the computer working on the trim. I'll post again in a few more tanks. Also, Toyota confirmed that the oxygen sensors are the same.

I found my problem when I was reusing some of the wires from the old harness. Basically I had HT and HT2 going to the body harness, where I looped them back to the sensors, and didn't have them hooked to the computer. Since the +B and Gnd is shared by all that stuff, the sensors were working and giving my meter signals and values consistent with passing tests, but never getting back to the computer. I was seeing a signal at the ECM, but the computer wasn't getting it because it was missing the HT connections to put it all together. Lessons learned.

I'm chasing the last glitch. My idle still stays high, around 1600, when it's warm and I'm driving around. If I shift, the RPMs go up between gears (no I'm not pushing on the gas at that point). If I stop at a light, they go up. If I tap the gas gently while stopped the RPM's drop to about 750. The cable isn't holding the butterfly open, it it properly adjusted at the throttle and idle screw. I'm going to try to pick up another IACV at the junk yard tomorrow. I made the mistake a while back if taking off the copper plate on the back side where there's a spring and can't guarantee I put it back together perfectly when cleaning everything.