Rotors...
 

I am going to be doing a brake job on my rig this weekend, and was wondering how important it is to have the rotors turned. If it is important, how is your average "backyard mechanic" supposed to do this? I am trying to avoid paying big $$ taking it to a shop....

I didn't turn my rotors when I did my brake job - then again it was the first brake job my Tacoma ever had. Stopping power is good, not exceptional.

It's better if you do, because that way you have a clean surface to mate the pads to. Sometimes metallics and organics combine with each other and with added heat, you get glazing, by resurfacing you clear the surface of the rotor from such. Also, if you rotors are warped (out of round) that's probably a good idea to resurface.

I agree, you should do it. However, you can also take 100 grit sand paper and sand in a "sawing" motion front and back, while turning the rotor by hand. This works, as noted on our 94 Accord EX with 4-wheel disc brakes. I did not turn any of the rotors, and the thing stops on a dime and does not squeal (at 90K miles). All I did was the sanding method above. Be sure to clean it real good with brake cleaner.

Actually, I did do a little bit of the sanding - sorry forgot about that...

I changed my pads around 90k miles without turning the rotors and so far they seem to be doing fine (10k miles later). Braking is good, no shudder. So you don't have to do it. But this is just my experience. If you're already feeling shuddering in the steering wheel while braking, definitely have them turned.

I only turn the rotors if the surface is heavy grooved/scored. Some Autoparts stores around here will turn the rotors for you. Check with your local stores.

That's because taking out the rotors (especialy front ones) are a biatch on that car. The rotors are supposedly pressed on, on the front and what the manual calls for is to remove the entire steering knuckle from each side and seperate the rotor that way. Haven't done it yet, and thank god my pads are new from the previous owner so I have a long way till I need to remove the rotors or pads at that.

Well keep in mind that I only did this because the rotors were not grooved or glazed. If they were, I would have pulled them off. In other words, the difficulty of removal was not my deciding factor. Heck, I have done both CV's on that thing anyway.

I just did a font end brake job. Two new china rotors and four new brake pads. :D If I was you I would just replace the pads but I am not a mechanic.
My ride was shaking majorly during high speed braking hence the new rotors. If you turn the rotors it will make them thinner (more likely to warp). They turn rotor here at pep boys for $8. I said give me the new ones (china sad to say) for $20 each. :spank: :rockin: :scared: :att: :att: :lol: :yawn:

If the rotors are not groved then don`t bother turnning them .I hear this all the time glasing crap all the time .It`s usually from a break shop .If anything you make the rotors weaker by turnning them . They are thinner and heat up faster .They will also be more prone to warping .

If you change your pads before they wear out there is no need to turn the rotors .I usually change my rotors enven if there is 20% pad left .Pads are cheap rotors and their replacement isn`t .

Say what?

i work in the auto industry for a repair shop... its advised to turn the rotors, or replace them at and pad change....

i havent done mine because i am lazy and poor.... mine are glazed all to hell, so i just make sure i apply the brakes sooner to counteract some of the brake fade.....

next time i do mine, i plan on replacing mine... our shop charges $15.00 a rotor to resurface off the car

You never "HAVE" to turn them.Even if you go metal to metal.But rotors don't wear perfectly flat they "dish"(have high and low spots).So while you can just do a pad slap,machining the rotors corrects the uneven wear and provides the best suface for the the pads to adhere to,thus the best braking preformance(once the pads are seated in).
On 90-97 accords ,the rotors are machined on the car with a special brake lathe.