bleeding brakes
 

can anyone tell me how to blesd the breaks in my 86 4runer. i know the order and i know that you undo the little plug on the calipers and pump the breaks, but im not clea ron it all. can someone give me the oder of steps that i need to do???? do i put more fluid in the resivor before i start? any other hints????thanks

I use a vacuum bleeder for mine, one person is all that is needed:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/sp...7612cc8dd963d5
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...rake%20bleeder

Just start at the driver's side rear, set up the bleeder (vacuum pump-hose-reservoir-hose) and stick the hose on the bleeder, pull a vacuum, crack open the bleeder and pull out fluid until it runs clear. I usually try to flush 4-8 oz. of fluid out per brake, but for manual bleeding just go until the air bubbles come out. Top off the master cylinder as it needs it. By the time you finish, you have flushed out the old brake fluid with about 1 qt. of new stuff.

For 2-person bleeding, see:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...rakesright.htm

You need to get one person in the vehicle and another at the brakes. Have the person in the car pump the brakes and hold the pedal down then the person at the brakes will open up the little valve untill all of the air/fluid has came out. Close the valve and repump the brakes and open it again. Keep going through this process untill no air has came out for a couple of cycles. Also keep checking your reservoir to make sure it has fluid in it. If it gets to low you will suck air and have to start all over.

awesome, i understand, thanks guys!

If using the pedal pumping method be very carefull not to press the pedal down too far, you can ruin your o-rings in the master cylinder if you do. Check this out:http://www.gadgetonline.com/BrakeFlu...edal%20method:

AWW DAMMIT, I spent fricky $75 shipped on the Motive one, and I don't see it doing anything better than that one. :pop:

People have been using the pump method for years and not done that.

The pressure bleeding kits are supposed to be better than the vacuum ones. I've not used a pressure bleeder yet. The vacuum pumps take a little practice to use properly and some folks don't like them because you'll always see some bubbles from the air leaking in around the bleeder threads. The trick is learning to recognize the real air bubbles from trapped air that you are trying to remove vs. the fine bubbles leaking around the bleeder threads.

Nice thing is the vacuum pump w/ gauge is a useful diagnostic tool by itself. Handy from testing vacuum actuated things on the engine, checking vacuum readings, etc. I like multi-purpose tools :rockon:

20 bucks is just the repair kit....

You can often find the whole kit for $30-40 on sale, or if you already have a vacuum pump, the bleeder kit can be had for under $10.

check out Motive Power Bleeders. I watched it work on my truck and it's fast, efficient and ensures no air in your system if done properly.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Troy