86 4Runner idler arm
 

Hi, I was just wondering if I need a special tool to change my wobbly idler arm, I know this may sound like a dumb question to most of you but I'm just curious if anyone's ever changed one before and the easiest way to do it.
86 4runner 208,000 miles bored over .020

You'll just need basic tools - wrenches and sockets, maybe a small screwdriver to priy off the top cap. If things are really frozen together, you'll need a gear puller or pickle fork to get the joint apart. If you're rebuilding the current part, check the rubber gaskets to make sure they're in good condition before you put everything back together. Also, make sure you get the right bushings - Toyota has two different sets - one for an 18mm shaft and one for a 20mm shaft. If a bushing doesn't fit either the shaft or the housing, take it back, no matter what the dealer tells you. If you can't get the right bushing, a wrap or two of stainless steel 'trim tape' will get the job done until it's time to replace the whole assembly.

I just rebuilt mine and it couldn't have been easier. I followed this write up from 4x4wire http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/ and everything went fine. The part #s listed were correct. In my case it was:

Bushing (2) 90385-18068 @ $2.40 ea
Dust Seal (1) 90304-31012 @$8.95

Got the parts from Toyota and they had to be ordered so it took a couple days. I've seen the bushings on some online sites but not the seal, and there wasn't enough savings to make it worth the hassle. Besides, it was the seal that made up the majority of the cost.

I would definately have a tie rod end puller to make your life easier. I got a free rental at Autozone and it made quick work of removal. The only other tricky part is getting the cap off the top because Toyota has it glued on there with some sealant. Take you time and be careful. It will come off eventually in one piece. I didn't realize that the cap doesn't go back on when you install the Downey truss (which I did) so I could have just beat the crap out of it, but i don't like to ruin parts just on general principal. I would definately recommend the rebuild over a replacement and save yourself some dough. That said, if your play is coming from the opposite end where the idler arm stud joins the steering link (unlikely) then you would have to replace. Good luck.

Mike