live4soccer7

Essentially all of these transmissions could be candidates, they all share the same tranny/bellhousing bold pattern. Which can adapt to a toyota transfer case though?:

Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed
Jeep NV3550 5-speed
Toyota R150F & R151F
87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154
Isuzu AR5
Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 5-speeds

Without finding an specific information regarding the adaptability of the RF1A transfer to the non-toyota transmissions. Moving forward with the R150F transmission choice from a 96-05 5VZ-FE motor.


1995–2004 Toyota Tacoma
2000–2004 Toyota Tundra
1995–1998 Toyota T-100
1996–2002 Toyota 4Runner
1993–2004 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado
Toyota Granvia
2000-2002, 2004 GAZ 3111

Information Regarding the R150F (I know it is being repeated, but should help anyone sifting through the massive amount of information).

A 4WD transmission found in many Toyota trucks. Land Cruiser II, Land Cruiser Prado and Hilux Surf (1989-1993) 2L-T series and 1KZ series Turbo Diesel, V6 3VZE and 5VZ-FE ] (also Japan, UK and Europe 1KZ/TE 4Runners, 93-95)

Ratios:

First Gear: 3.830:1
Second Gear: 2.062:1
Third Gear: 1.436:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.838:1

Input shaft length
Pre 1995 R150\R151 = 6.5"
1996 up Toyota R series = 7.5"



Final Setup for adapting the R150F to the 1UZ (excluding clutch/flywheel).

1UZFE from a first Gen (94 and below). They have stouter bottom ends, no obdII, no vvti, no immobilzer to deal with. Although they make about 30 hp less and might be slightly less efficient, however it leaves the option for forced induction down the road which easily makes up for 30 hp. The SC400 is the best lexus to get it out of for a solid front axle setup.

• 1UZ from 91-94 SC400
• Early Model R150F Transmission (from 3vz series engine, with shorter shaft)
• KSRacing Bell housing off of ebay
• The marlin adapter kit for the later model R150F transmission: http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfe...v6-drivetrains
• Also with the marlin adapter (unless using the chain driven tcase that bolts to the R150F, you will need this to match the spline counts):http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfe...ine-input-gear
• 3.0 Slave Cylinder and Clutch Fork
• Either Modified 3vz Flywheel (bolt pattern and shaved to engage starter) or pre-modified flywheel that will accept 3vz clutch setups
• About 1/2" worth of spacers on the ball for the fork
• 3.4 Throwout Bearing
• Marlin Crawler Super clutch for the 3.0 (3vz)

With the above setup you will have 1UZ --> Late Model R150F Transmission --> Gear Driven RF1A Toyota Transfer Cases

A lot of research that ended back up to the obvious choice. You can use some of the other transmissions listed above, however you will likely end up mixing and matching components to get them to work with the toyota transfer cases. I have my toyota transfer cases already built, minus the 23 spline input so I would like to keep them. The reason I was looking at so many other transmission options was due to the 5th gear cruising rpms. with the setup listed combined with my 5.29 gears and 37's, I will be running at a little over 3k at 75 mph. Not the end of the world, but I would have liked to of seen lower rpms. I may end up changing my gear set depending upon how it works out when it is said and done.

live4soccer7

I will be working on the flywheel/clutch scenario next. I know 4.0 Pickup has some information on this. He used the 3vz flywheel and had it machined to work (bolt pattern and 5/16" off the back to engage the starter). I believe he then used the rest of the 3vz parts for that whole setup.

I think he stated he wishes he would have used the 5vz for the larger clutch.

He also shaved off a considerable amount on the transmission slave cylinder mounting point to match the clutch fork length. Not a big isssue and will be resolved upon the swap.



Anyone know of the best flywheel/clutch setup for this swap? Anything out there that doesn't involve machining?

live4soccer7

Another great thread. I like the motor mounts that this guy made: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...case-swap.html
I will likely modify my cross member in a similar fashion. I have

Just realized that is toyminator. ha ha.

live4soccer7

NorthIdahoYota: I read a thread by you a while back saying you didn't have to machine the flywheel 3vz flywheel. Is this correct? I know you shaved some off the back, but what about the bolt pattern?

live4soccer7

Flywheel option that isn't extremely expensive: http://www.1uzfeswapkit.com/Flywheel...-0000-0008.htm

Works with 3vz and 3SGTE pressure plates.

live4soccer7

Updated main mechanical adaption from 1uz --> R150f --> duals

• 1UZ from 91-94 SC400 (has stronger bottom end without OBII or VVTI, allows option for FI down the road)
• Early Model R150F Transmission (from 3vz series engine, with shorter shaft)
• KSRacing Bell housing off of ebay (other bell housings may require the later r150f)
• The marlin adapter kit for the later model R150F transmission: http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfe...v6-drivetrains
• Also with the marlin adapter (unless using the chain driven tcase that bolts to the R150F, you will need this to match the spline counts):http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfe...ine-input-gear
• 3.0 Slave Cylinder and Clutch Fork
• Will have to shave/cut some off the slave cylinder mounts point on the KSracing bell housing
• Either Modified 3vz Flywheel (bolt pattern and shaved to engage starter) or pre-modified flywheel that will accept 3vz clutch setups. 5/16" off back flywheel. Use spacer for re-drilling holes
• About 1/2" worth of spacers on the ball for the fork
• 3.4 Throwout Bearing
• Marlin Crawler Super clutch for the 3.0 (3vz)

live4soccer7

Interesting article about whether they have forged internals or not: http://www.lextreme.com/pistons.html

NorthIdahoyota

I did have to have the bolt pattern slotted. I almost bought the ks flywheel but I didnt know if it would take a 3ze clutch and the guy wouldnt answer my questions. The machinist only charged $75 to shave the back of the FW, change the bolt pattern, bore out the center hole, and clean up the face.

live4soccer7

What do you mean by "slotted". I have actually received a few replies from ksracing on ebay. His kit is for the 3vz r150s and not the 5vz r150s. I found this out through 85toyman based on what he used in his swap too. He is just finishing up. I definitely want a flywheel that will accept other "standard" clutch kits rather than having to fork out tons of $$ for special ones. I want to keep as much standard as possible for ease of future repairs.

Do you have any specifications for how much was shaved and the "slotting" so that one could take a 3vz flywheel in and simply get it machined without trying to "reinvent the wheel"?

NorthIdahoyota

the bolt pattern for both was the same except the uz's is on a tiny bit bigger circle. Why toyota did it I dont know but the holes are just moved out by about 1mm. On the uz there is a spacer between the flexplate and the crank, so I just took that in for the machinist to take his measurements off of. You want to take 5/16" off the back of the flywheel so the starter will engage. The center hole was very close in size, It seemed like the 3vz flywheel would slip over the uz crank, but just didnt quite and I didnt want to hammer it on.

live4soccer7

Great, thanks a ton. I will add this information up to the final build spec list that I have going. I would imagine that having it all in one place in a list fashion should help anyone else that wants to do it. Plus, it helps me keep organized and remember everything.

I just noticed that you made use of the lexus seats. that is awesome! I've been wanting new seats. Just curious, do they slide forward/backward for access to the back seat? I have a 4runner and have been looking for some decent seats. Are they power or manual?

NorthIdahoyota

The seats are really nice but I'm not sure I love them. They are power seats and just use one wire to hook up. The problem is that they are about 2" taller than the yota seats and put the top of my head too close to the roof. But the drivers side is adjustable by cushion tilt, recline, forward/back, and lumbar support so they are extremely comfortable. They also dont have a quick way to flip forward so I have to reach behind the seats from the middle. Way more comfy than the old 60/40 bench but hopefully my seatbelt will keep me from bashing my brains out over bumps.

live4soccer7

schucks, that would have been way to convenient to get great seats that would lean forward and slide with the donor car. Oh well, another day.

liveoffroad

great research! i've had my eye on 1uz swaps for a while now, just seemed too intimidating to consider. very nice having all the research in one spot like this! I was surprised to learn that the internals were weaker on the later models. i wonder how much difference it actually makes if your keeping it n/a..... cuz even though the later ones would be a lot more pain to work with, you'd get 40+ more HP which seems worth the effort to me

live4soccer7

I think it all depends what you want with the vehicle. Just know that if you ever did want to do forced induction with later models, it will be VERY expensive. The reason being is that you will have to upgrade the internals AND deal with all of the ecu issues of forced induction, where the earlier model you can do FI with stock internals and the ecu won't care nearly as much. I think the newer motors may be just as reliable, but can not speak from research. I don't plan on doing forced induction, but it allows me to pretty much get as much power out of the engine that I would want down the road (if the use of the vehicle calls for it).

My other reason for the earlier motor is that if you do break something on the trail (sensor or whatever it may be), the earlier 1UZ shouldn't care nearly as much as the later ones.

It is the perfect swap really. Efficient, powerful enough to do pretty much most anything with that our toyotas can handle, lighter than the 3vz and 5vz (more powerful and efficient as well). It is a little more work, but I think 260 NA hp is sufficient to push these trucks along on the freeway and up and down hills. Along with some towing capabilities as well and being able to keep freeway speeds without having to down shift ridiculously. All of this and not to mention the ridiculous reliability of these motors as well! Easily you will see 250k without a rebuild (assuming proper maintenance) and there have been 400-500k motors documented as well (although fewer). Couple that with the fact that you can balance a fifty cent piece on end on top of the engine and redline it without it falling over.

What isn't there to like about it? The "difficultyness" of the swap? I think if you are swapping a motor, you might as well make it the last one you will swap into the truck. This is assuming your reasons are the same as mine (all around efficient rig capable of doing pretty much most of what I can put in front of it).

NorthIdahoyota

If you are just staying stock N/A the later ones are still pretty much bulletproof. The problem is wiring obd1 to obd2, and vvt if it is late enough. Wiring obd1 to obd1 was about as much of a challenge as I could stand, but I'm not much of an electrician.

live4soccer7

Not to mention the immobilzer in the I think 98+ (likely in the information in this thread on the first page).

Thanks for the input NorthIdahoyota. Are you and your truck ever down in the spokane area? Would love to check out the work you have done.

NorthIdahoyota

Sometimes, last time I drove the pickup over there I drownded it at the 7mile orv park, but I dont go over there very often

live4soccer7

ha ha.. That's awesome.

live4soccer7

This swap is still happening, didn't want people to think that it was just another one of "those" threads.

I am near spokane, wa. If anyone sees a 91-94 SC400 that is wrecked, please let me know. I have been watching, but haven't had any luck. I've been looking on CL, any other suggestions for good places to source such a vehicle from somewhat close to spokane, wa?