Solid Axle Swaps, All Years Anything SAS related

I am wanting to do a SAS on my 88 pickup, what would be some axles that would be best

Old 01-22-2018, 12:17 PM
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I am wanting to do a SAS on my 88 pickup, what would be some axles that would be best

1988 Toyota pickup, single cab, short bed, stock suspension. I'll be honest I am no expert on this, but I am doing my best to learn as much as I can before I dive into the project. I have a few people who can help me with the actual work, but I just want to be more educated on this and know all the options I have. I am planning on keeping it easy and just putting leafs all around, and will probably stick with 35s (I currently only have 30s). Any help would be awesome! I'm only 19 but I want to be able to have all the knowledge neccesary!
Old 01-22-2018, 12:48 PM
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What exactly is your question? Are you wondering what years have a front axle you can use? Anything 1985 and prior has a solid front axle. I believe the 1985 year is when Toyota added some gusseting to the axle tube itself, but I'm no expert.
Old 01-22-2018, 01:13 PM
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coryc85
I'm mainly looking for what people recommend for the front axle and any tips that might be helpful
Old 01-22-2018, 01:13 PM
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built yota(mini or LC), diamond, trailgear, or dana 60. If you go dana I wouldn't go lower than a d60.

If you're asking this you need to do loads more research. Just being real.
Old 01-22-2018, 01:15 PM
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I have to start somewhere
Old 01-22-2018, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KinnamanRoll
muddpigg
I have to start somewhere
No problem. Just saying don't rush to failure. Take your time, read builds, faqs, compare kits vrs piecing one together vrs homebrew, figure budget... What you intend to use rig for, honestly I don't get to wheel like I did before the SAS, moved. But it was a fun project and learned alot. Are you going to do swap or pay for it to be done?
Old 01-23-2018, 12:01 AM
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Red face

The real question is just why do you feel the need??

Figure out a real world budget .!!

Nothing worse then getting things all pulled apart and run out of time or money

Then your truck sits there for months unable to be used

Over the years I fixed a few of these that went down the road sideways it does not take much.

Lots of good Information out there read then read some more
Old 01-23-2018, 05:21 AM
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I just finished a solid axle swap on my 95 4Runner. I priced out all of the parts 3 years ago, made a spreadsheet with everything I needed and the price, and have been slowly accumulating them as I could afford them. I got an 85 mini truck axle I put armor from trail gear on it, upper truss, full face diff guard, knuckle ball gussets and steering stops. I bought Marlin axle rebuild kit and spent a couple weekends cutting grinding priming and painting the axle. Check out low range off-road on YouTube they have a 9 part series of what it takes to rebuild the axle. Just doing that is a pretty big job.
Old 01-23-2018, 10:20 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by muddpigg
No problem. Just saying don't rush to failure. Take your time, read builds, faqs, compare kits vrs piecing one together vrs homebrew, figure budget... What you intend to use rig for, honestly I don't get to wheel like I did before the SAS, moved. But it was a fun project and learned alot. Are you going to do swap or pay for it to be done?
I have done a lot of research already, but I have read that sometimes the Toyota axles aren't strong enough. I am planning on getting the trail gear ifs elimination kit, and I will be doing the swap with some help, obviously. I know some people who make off road gear for newer Toyotas so he has all the tools and lifts I need, I just have to get all the parts. I basically just wanted to have more knowledge from people who had experience doing this.
Old 01-23-2018, 12:02 PM
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The allpro kit is the same price as trail gear and people don't complain about their leaf springs failing after a year. Trail gear comes with the axle rebuild kit that allpro does not, that's why I bought the Marlin axle rebuild kit. I wanted to keep mine low and allpro swapped out the standard spring hangar and 5" shackles with the low profile spring hanger and 4" shackles no charge. I used the 4" lift springs so I'm still able to clear 35" tires I'm also running RCV axles lifetime warranty. Build it right and build it once.

Last edited by Yotard; 01-23-2018 at 12:04 PM.
Old 01-23-2018, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
The real question is just why do you feel the need??

Figure out a real world budget .!!

Nothing worse then getting things all pulled apart and run out of time or money

Then your truck sits there for months unable to be used

Over the years I fixed a few of these that went down the road sideways it does not take much.

Lots of good Information out there read then read some more
I can't stress Wyoming's point enough. Take your time. I pieced my kit together so was concerned about steering geometry which castor is controlled by string mount and shackle. So I did lots of reading on steering geometry and compared frame dimensions. I wanted slightly more castor than stock.

Did someone mention budget???

Originally Posted by KinnamanRoll
I have done a lot of research already, but I have read that sometimes the Toyota axles aren't strong enough. I am planning on getting the trail gear ifs elimination kit, and I will be doing the swap with some help, obviously. I know some people who make off road gear for newer Toyotas so he has all the tools and lifts I need, I just have to get all the parts. I basically just wanted to have more knowledge from people who had experience doing this.
TG has changed/improved several times over the years. Some swear by them and they by far now offer the most selections of parts from one vendor but..... They quality has also varied. With loads of ppl complaining about some parts over the years. I've got several TG parts and some have not cut it. I suspect their spring flip plates I'm running have warped/bent and are allowing front springs to shift in pack but won't know for sure till I pull them to inspect. Have a set of SORD to go in. I wouldn't run TG crawl box, used to be that TG used a stronger detent spring to hold crawl box in gear so they were known to pop out of gear. Marlin on the other hand used the cut on the gears to hold crawl box in gear like yota did. Why do I mention crawl box??? well besides the obvious that they're awesome!! As you go up in lift you will effect driveshaft angles. If you only plan to crawl in the rocks with a single case under 5-8mph probably not a concern (who crawls with a single case????). But I wanted to be able to do 50mph for snow. Even a dual cardigan shaft has limits, But if you relax the front driveshaft angle by adding 6.5" of crawl box. You now increased the rear driveshaft angle. Not a big deal if longer wheel base but we're short wheel base rigs so a single cardigan shaft has limits. Now that is swapping in a dual cardigan driveshaft in the rear and cutting'remounting rear axle spring perches to to rotate pinion angle. Still haven't dove into rear suspension yet.

Originally Posted by Yotard
The allpro kit is the same price as trail gear and people don't complain about their leaf springs failing after a year. Trail gear comes with the axle rebuild kit that allpro does not, that's why I bought the Marlin axle rebuild kit. I wanted to keep mine low and allpro swapped out the standard spring hangar and 5" shackles with the low profile spring hanger and 4" shackles no charge. I used the 4" lift springs so I'm still able to clear 35" tires I'm also running RCV axles lifetime warranty. Build it right and build it once.
Yotard brings up what I mean by built yota axles. I know a guy with 38's that hammers on his rig with know broken axles on a set of RCVs. I will warn you that there are many bent housings, some very slightly bent that aren't obvious that can/will cause problems. I've ran original old style 27 longs for years without issue on 35's because they have a bead welded on I can't service them. Bobby used to to it but unfortunately he has passed. Now I'm running a set of TG 27 longs but only one real trip on them so time will tell. I've really been eyeing a set of RCVs though. Of course you should gusset balls and steering stops. Trussing isn't a bad idea but I haven't.

Recently read a post about a TG pitman arm not fitting right. I put their sprindles on. After blowing a set of wheel bearings I realized the spindle was slighltly to large of a diameter for wheel inner wheelbearing to slide on. I learn about always test fitting such things. Some 320grit and elbow grease, they now fit better. Should probably look for a good micrometer and better dial calipers.

I SAS'd my rig in 2010 with a set of Allpro springs and they still look good. Bit rusty from upstate NY road salt but will fix that later.

Like I said fun project but very research and labor intensive.
Old 01-23-2018, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by muddpigg
I can't stress Wyoming's point enough. Take your time. I pieced my kit together so was concerned about steering geometry which castor is controlled by string mount and shackle. So I did lots of reading on steering geometry and compared frame dimensions. I wanted slightly more castor than stock.

Did someone mention budget???


TG has changed/improved several times over the years. Some swear by them and they by far now offer the most selections of parts from one vendor but..... They quality has also varied. With loads of ppl complaining about some parts over the years. I've got several TG parts and some have not cut it. I suspect their spring flip plates I'm running have warped/bent and are allowing front springs to shift in pack but won't know for sure till I pull them to inspect. Have a set of SORD to go in. I wouldn't run TG crawl box, used to be that TG used a stronger detent spring to hold crawl box in gear so they were known to pop out of gear. Marlin on the other hand used the cut on the gears to hold crawl box in gear like yota did. Why do I mention crawl box??? well besides the obvious that they're awesome!! As you go up in lift you will effect driveshaft angles. If you only plan to crawl in the rocks with a single case under 5-8mph probably not a concern (who crawls with a single case????). But I wanted to be able to do 50mph for snow. Even a dual cardigan shaft has limits, But if you relax the front driveshaft angle by adding 6.5" of crawl box. You now increased the rear driveshaft angle. Not a big deal if longer wheel base but we're short wheel base rigs so a single cardigan shaft has limits. Now that is swapping in a dual cardigan driveshaft in the rear and cutting'remounting rear axle spring perches to to rotate pinion angle. Still haven't dove into rear suspension yet.

Recently read a post about a TG pitman arm not fitting right. I put their sprindles on. After blowing a set of wheel bearings I realized the spindle was slighltly to large of a diameter for wheel inner wheelbearing to slide on. I learn about always test fitting such things. Some 320grit and elbow grease, they now fit better. Should probably look for a good micrometer and better dial calipers.

I SAS'd my rig in 2010 with a set of Allpro springs and they still look good. Bit rusty from upstate NY road salt but will fix that later.

Like I said fun project but very research and labor intensive.
I definitely need a crawl box and new ring and pinions, but I have already done my share of research on that. But while we are on this topic, do you recommend 5.29 or 4.88 ratios, I'm planning on running 35x12.5 BFG MT on 18 in tires. I just have the stock 22re in my 88 pickup
Old 01-23-2018, 07:26 PM
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5.29 with a 4cyl above 33" tires.
Old 11-22-2018, 10:43 AM
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Progress

Here is where I’ve gotten, it’s been a long process due to work but here it is

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Old 09-03-2020, 11:16 PM
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looks good bruh!
Old 01-27-2021, 05:11 AM
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Axle repairing could be a messy thing to do, but only if you do it on your own . If you are somewhere near California, I would most likely to refer Axle Surgeons .They are experienced and qualified for this repair job.

Last edited by Emma Jone; 01-27-2021 at 05:13 AM.
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