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-   -   '93 T100 SR5 5 Spd Won't start fresh clutch (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f132/93-t100-sr5-5-spd-wont-start-fresh-clutch-257274/)

thatoneguy2487 08-09-2012 09:10 AM

'93 T100 SR5 5 Spd Won't start fresh clutch
 
Hello All,

I have a 1993 T100 SR5 4x4 5 spd 3VZ-E 140k. A buddy and I pulled the motor to replace the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing and flywheel. With motor out saw that new gaskets would be good as it was leaking from the valve covers and oil pan, so replaced those as well. Also ended up with a new idler pulley as that rusted pos snapped on me :/ Anyways, the motor is back in, all electrical hooked up and clutch has been bled(though it still doesn't feel as stiff as the last clutch I replaced) Have power to interior(battery gauge reading upper end of mid range), but when I attempt to start, it doesn't turn over and I just get a single click as the power drains. Going to get my battery and starter tested soon, but was wondering if anyone may have any other ideas as to what may be causing this? I have read quite a bit on these boards before signing up as a member and have noticed a lot of issues with the clutch pedal adjustment and brackets, but am not sure if this could maybe cause the clutch to not be disengaging properly hence keeping the truck from starting or maybe I did something wrong in the replacement process.

This was only my 2nd clutch replacement and my buddies first, and though we followed the haynes manual to the t(except only pulled motor as opposed to dropping the driveshaft and pulling the motor/tranny/transfer case as 1 unit), I'm not 100% confident everything was done correctly, especially since the manual is soooo detailed(insert sarcasm here). I recently found a link someone posted on here of the 'official' toyota shop manual after the motor was back in, and after reading through the clutch chapter, I think I did everything right.

Sorry for rambling, and thank you in advance for any help you may be able to offer. If any additional information is needed feel free to let me know! Thanks!

250000_yota 08-09-2012 12:50 PM

With just gelling a single click, I'd say it's probably a weak battery, but still double check that all electric connections and grounds. Keep us up to date of whether or not that works.

BamZipPow 08-09-2012 05:09 PM

Sounds like it could be the starter contacts. Can you rotate the engine with yer ratchet and socket? ;)

thatoneguy2487 08-10-2012 10:03 AM

Had battery checked and at 74% juice. Hooked up jumpers to a 92 ranger and same story. Starter/ground contacts/connections were all scrubbed down with a wire brush before attaching as they were a bit dirty.

CBECK 08-10-2012 10:32 AM

X2 on cheaking wiring, i did the same thing wile changing my clutch,(22re n droped the tranny tho) forgot to hook up one wire and got just the click when i went to start up and had all intrior power on, sounds like ur close to back on the road, sorry im not more help, good luck!

250000_yota 08-10-2012 11:37 AM


Originally Posted by thatoneguy2487 (Post 51957677)
Had battery checked and at 74% juice. Hooked up jumpers to a 92 ranger and same story. Starter/ground contacts/connections were all scrubbed down with a wire brush before attaching as they were a bit dirty.

What he means were the internal contacts. They have a tendency to be destroyed over the life of the truck.

Here's a good write up on it

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/

thatoneguy2487 08-13-2012 09:45 AM

Thanks to all for fast responses, information, and best wishes.

Just an update..turns out the battery is shot to the point it won't turn over the vehicle even with jump. Tried it with battery from friend's truck and she turned, but alas no start. Popped off the distributor cap and it was dry with no cracks. Coil wiring looks in good shape and coil appears fine from the surface. Electrical connections are tight and secure at injectors, and can hear fuel pump running when key in 'on' position. Plugs and wires have less than 1000 miles on them. From I've read, and I encourage you to feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I need to acquire a multimeter to test the coil itself, and if that is good then I can rule out electrical and move on to testing fuel system?


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