Flasher relay shorting out? 1st gen runner
 

**EDIT**For the sake of not reading all the OP .Skip to post 16 or so... since the OP somethings changed... I just didn't want to repost... Thanks!



I've spent the last 2 days searching for some help and cant seem to find it. So here's my first post.

When I picked up my 4runner(89 V6) the blinkers/hazards werent working. The fuse is in tact and everything else on that fuse is working. So I suspected the flasher relay. I replaced it with one from the local auto parts store and walla, they worked for about 10 second and then nothing... right back to where i started.

What could be causing the relay to short out and not the fuse? I would appreciate any help since I would like to pass my saftey inspection. Is it possible the relay new relay was the wrong one?

Is there any wires under the rear bumper for trailer wiring that might of been messily removed.

There is a trailer harness hanging there... and in the rear left side(inside the truck compartment) a control module that has the all the wires spliced to go to that harness.

It doesnt look to messy but not the best either.

I'm gonna go over it tomorrow and rewire it with out the (probably 15 year old) trailer module... Would that make the relay short out, or just blow the fuse?

So i've been racking my brain trying to get these turn signals working. I removed the trailer harness and tested the bulbs which are all in working condition. Tomorrow I will attemp another flasher relay...

I tested the resistance of the relay jack without the relay and there seems to be 2 prongs (closest to the rear and the top prong) that are grounded. I obviously don't know a whole lot about relays and electrical but does that make sense? Does it read resistance because one goes to the gauge cluster and that's grounded too?

I also removed the steering column cover and everything seems to be in good shape. Can anyone shed some light?

Flasher relay should have one terminal hooked to ground and the other two terminals go to the turn signal and flasher switches. Out of those switches are connections to the actual bulbs which are tied to ground on one side. I think it is the flasher relay that sends power to the bulbs, as selected by the setting of the switches.

So there should be one hard ground and possible the other one may change depending on how the turn signal or flasher switch is set.

I got a new flasher(the one they said it called for) the prongs werent right and i made a harness so it would fit and nothing this time not a flash nothing. Can anyone confirm their working part number on theirs... ?

Maybe the signal switch itself?... Time to get ready to dish out some $$ for an electrical shop?

Ok first lets figure out what you are talking about.

A flasher is not a relay!!

When you say shorting out. That means voltage is going to ground before the load most often means if one is lucky fuses open (blow) or else wires are melting and burning.

I would look close at the female socket the flasher plugs into I am thinking corroded. Just might also be a poor fit and not making good contact

The flasher works by breaking the ground circuit so if you are not getting a good ground they are not going to work

Does your horn work at all?? As that is on the same fuse.

If you got the wrong flasher either the wrong one in the right box or the gave you the wrong one.

I know flashers do go bad but I don`t think I ever had to change one. On a Toyota unless it got soaked.

Sorry if I haven't been clear... I appreciate your help.

When I say flasher relay i mean the "flasher" that plugs into the relay box. I bought this truck 2 weeks ago hoping to fix the turn signal problem. The previous owner has installed a push button horn going directly to the battery. The gagues ,which as far as I know are on the same fuse, work just fine. The fuse stays intact unless i put the car into reverse which pops the fuse. (not sure if its related) I looked around the reverse switch on the tranny and it seems to be fine(no exposed wires and still in its protective covering). I also ordered a new reverse light switch as well as tridon flasher ep32 which was originally installed on the relay box. What would be the best way to go about testing the female socket or the "relay board"?

Sounds like you have a mess!!

Your dash lights have nothing to do with the flasher/ horn circuit they are on the tail light circuit.(fuse)

Blowing the Hazard/ Horn fuse when you put it in reverse tells me you might have a problem in the rear tail lights or in the rear tail light harness.

any place these2 circuits could come in contact

This is one of those places a electrical manual makes it so much easier.

To clean plugs and such I use electrical contact cleaner. I fought with the factory plug for the radio for hours once thinking a brand new unit was defective only to have it be a corroded plug. unable to see the corrosion with the naked eye.

A real small flat file in extreme cases blowing out the connector with air after using the file

Ok... so i was working on testing the horn/hazard fuse(within the Engine bay) and the #8fuse "engine"(in the kick panel) with a test lamp. My manual says the engine fuse also gives power to the gagues/warning lights, buzzers, turn signal lights, horn and back up lights. After getting a few readings I was finishing up and thought id throw in the last known working relay and wouldn't you know it...they are FLASHING AGAIN! They seem to be working perfectly (blinkers actually blinking) so now i have working turn signals and hazards.
All I can come up with it that sticking the test lamp probe into those connections cleaned them and now is making a solid contact...I just blew my own mind.
Now the only problem is reverse still blows the fuse #8 in the kick panel the second I put it into reverse... One step closer...I have a new reverse switch in the mail.

Thank you so much for your help Wyoming9! Very much appreciated.

Any other advice on the reverse lights... ? Shoild I start looking at the lights or would the switch be suspect? Thanks again for all your help.

If it is the back up light switch most often the lights will stay on all the time or they will not work.

Which fuse is blowing? The Haz/Horn fuse??

Or another one?

The back up lights should be powered from the engine Fuse is that the one that opens.

It is simple to test the switch with the plug removed vehicle in reverse . If you don`t own a multimeter now might be time to buy one or at least borrow one.

You don`t need a fancy one but try and get one with a continuity buzzer put your test leads on the two pins if it makes noise your good. take vehicle out of reverse check again it should not have any continuity .

That tells you the switch is ok.

I suppose it could be possible the switch when closed is shorted to ground to test for that go from the switch body to a good ground it may not give you a true reading because of not being able to get a good ground or connection with the test leads.

These tests are all done with the key switch off.

Hope that helps

Bump... Since my last post I have bypassed the reverse light switch to a toggle in the cab. I also have had working turn signals for almost a year... until now! The problem returned. I can't figure out what's causing it. If I leave the signal/hazards on all the time ever once in a while it will flash(like once or twice on my hour drive to work). Does this mean there is an exposed wire somewhere? If the flasher in the relay box under the left kick panel is removed should the signals stay on? Because they don't come on at all. The part number they have at the stores are for a standard flasher that the prongs dont fit... however I ordered the part number recommended for the manufacturer(tridon ep 32). I suspect either a bad "circuit/relay board" or a corroded wire from said board to the signals.
Would that cause those symptoms? I would appreciate any help/suggestions...

Go back and recheck your connections.

I would be willing to bet you have a loose one again someplace if not the very same place. The fact it works at times says it still functions .

I have big feet so it seems every once in a while I kick something in the left side fuse panel and something quits working.

If you are getting water either from a leaking windshield seal or a hole in the floor can cause things to corrode over time.

Maybe you hit a bump hard and jarred something loose.

Thanks for your reply...I thought that could be the case... I checked the connections I replaced the front right turn signal housing and nothing...
I'm getting a bit hopeless... not sure what else to do. The haynes manual has the electric diagrams but it has every model toyota for like 15 years and I cant really understand it.

I just dont understand what could cause it... an exposed wire would blow a fuse... bad Flasher relay wouldn't blink once it goes out(replaced it anyway)... the fuse/relay board where the flasher plugs into(drivers kick) has power to where the flasher plugs into... if it was a bulb then the other corners would work.., been fiddling all weekend to no avail... any other suggestions would be appreciated...

Want a Schematic?
 

Agree with Wyoming; have a multi-meter and all your senses in good health and you can troubleshoot our classic rigs. :)

All this discussion when we do not know if you have stock wiring, would not do much good, because many troubleshoot based on known, stock schematic. If you'd like to do this cleanly and restore wiring to robust stock. PM me your email address, so I can send you pdf of page of schematic that has back-up/turn signal/.

Just to clarify I dont have any fuses blowing.. and it is stock wiring... my skills with a multi-meter are pretty limited but would certainly try with some instruction.

It would be nice to know where you live.

I don`t remember does this vehicle have a alarm??

They can cause all sort of nightmares when it comes to wiring .

I am almost positive the female side where the flasher plugs in is spread a little to wide.

You would have power there but if you have a poor connection it will not work.

Also some of these older Toyota vehicles will only blink the flasher with the engine running no matter how big the battery.

If you really don`t know what your doing get some in person hands on help. If you were close I would be glad to help:camp:

No alarm as far as I know...I live in Miami, FL at the moment but will be moving back to Park City, UT in a few weeks and would love to drive 3000 miles with blinkers... what do you mean by the female side spread wide? so if the socket is underpowered how low would it have to be to make it not work.. ? Lower than 12v? I do have a bunch of wires that I cant identify going to a black box... I dont think it has anything to do with it but to rule it out ill post a picture.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78665484@N08/8110421516/http://www.flickr.com/photos/78665484@N08/8110421516/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/78665484@N08/, on Flickr

There is also a 2 wire plug seen in the picture at the bottom right of the box in relation to the picture... that is the only thing I can find really out of place... I thought a while back it was part of the stock radio which I dont use... I wired my own stereo straight from the battery with an inline fuse(it's kosher)...