Auxiliary fuse boxes
 

I have a 1995 Toyota Pickup, extended cab, 5 speed, 22RE, manual locks, windows, with AC.
Long story short I have my whole interior torn out because I am repairing my cab harness. I have two extra stock fuse blocks that hold four fuses each, they mount to the stock fuse box. This is my first time adding any auxiliary fuses for accessories.

I do not know what gauge wire I need to wire each fuse block, fuse block to circuit breaker, and fuse block to relay. I will be using 10 gauge for everything else.

It all depends what accessories you want to run off those fuse blocks. Could be 12 to 18 gauge, depending on the length of run and amp draw

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Supp...ctionTable.pdf

Thank you very much Lons81. I have put in a good week of research into this. Everything i have read has a a pre built fuse block with some kind of stamped circuit. I am starting from scratch.
Excuse the multiple questions but I am very unsure and do not want to burn my truck down.

Each block will have 4 fuses 20 amps each max, I am wanting to install a 80 amp or a 100 amp breaker in the first circuit between the block and battery. Constant power so each accessory with be fused and switched, the wire from the fuse block to the breaker will be about 6 feet long.

Second circuit will be wired to ignition accessory power, 4 fuses, 20 amps max each. I am unsure of what amperage fuse to use between the relay and battery.

My biggest question is what gauge size of wire do I use to connect my fuse connectors in my block. I tried to add a little color to my schematic along with my complete/incomplete plans and a picture of the the block with the clips installed, the wires stick out of the bottom and would need jumpered together but what gauge size?. Please help me make any corrections I need to prevent any catastrophic events from happening. Any and all information is very much appreciated.

This is one of those questions that could be debated for days.

Everything should be wired and protected to handle the maximum draw

Then the question is will you ever be using all the loads in one fuse block at the same time.

since every circuit is going to be protected any protection between the battery and the fuse block just protects the wire.:wrench:

What accessories do plan on adding with amp draw. Do you have any open spaces on your current fuse panel?

Couple of good reads.

http://www.sputnikoffroad.com/index....ruck&Itemid=13
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.eXY&cad=rja

wyoming9 thanks for the response. I do not plan on using all four at the same time but would like to be able to if needed.

Lons81 thanks again. I am not sure exactly what I may run on these, CB, spot light, fog light, ubs/power outlet, etc. I do not imagine anything over 20 amp. By the way thanks for the links, one was new the other was very informative.

This is my final schematic. Please let me know what you would do different or if this may cause any fires or possible problems; (wire gauge size, breaker size or placement, fuse size or placement,) or anything I may have missed. Wire length from breaker to fuse block is about 5 1/2 ft, wire from relay to fuse block will be about 5 1/2 ft also.

Again thank you very much.

So the end game is to have 4 circuits that have voltage all the time the other 4 are switched via the ignition ??

How are you planning to make all your connections solder heat shrink ??

Loose connections are always going to cause heat .

You also want easy access to all the fuses breakers and relay. You have the new connectors and the proper crimp tool to wire the fuse blocks ??

Given a choice I would never use this style fuse block installing a harness on the line all assembled is a different story.

We all use what we have.

This is why most after market blocks have a bus and the circuit protection in a box then each circuit is wired in.

This is your project but to me the breakers are just extra expense and more connections .

If you want to use breakers instead of fuses use them on each circuit.

You might want to give some thought to just what your loads are going to be.

using wire numbers to keep track of all the circuits and drawing schematics nothing like going back years later and having no idea what does what.

We all do things are own way to a degree as long as your connections are tight protected from water you should be fine.

I just have to ask why does your cab harness need fixing??:wrench:

Just some wiring thoughts. For the non-switched side. I would install a 80 amp Maxifuse off the battery, to an insulated terminal block. From the terminal block wire each accessory with the required power wire gauge the manufacturer says to use. This way you are not using your fuse blocks and a long run of 8 gauge or bigger wire.http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml.

For your relay side, I would wire each relay/accessory on it's own single circuit. In your wiring diagram, if you lost that one relay, then you lost all 4 accessories. Take a look in how they drew up their example and use that for reference. All relays are powered from on power source and switched to the accessory. Again using the power wire size recommended by the manufacturer.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/...eb-jpg.618649/

A lot of good info and parts here. http://www.madelectrical.com/

Here is another good write up for adding power fuse block. Makes it easy
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127...4runner-75190/

I have not had much free time to log on. I am still working on the truck getting closer and closer to finishing it up. I purchased my truck with a bad engine at a very low price. A friend of mine rebuilt the 22RE for me, he cleaned and detailed the engine bay, even painted the block. After I drove it home I started looking into my fuse block and wiring. I found that the blower had been replaced and not wired properly. The wires to a relay on the passenger side under the dash were toasted to bare wire, along with a few others. I spent about a month going through every wire harness I could find at every junk yard available. I ended up purchasing one that was very similar. I stripped and removed the section of harness that I needed. I removed my dash in order to remove the complete can harness. After carefully dissecting my harness I removed the damaged section and soldered in the replacement section that I had removed from the donor harness. I now have my harness ready to be installed. I decided to replace the heater core while the dash is off. I started to clean out the vent boxes and found that every single piece of sponge used on the flaps to seal the sections off started to crumble and fall apart. Now I need to re seal my vent box. (Please any idea of what to use to replace the sponge, I was thinking maybe weather sealer from Home Depot.)

For the auxiliary fuses;
You are correct, I would like four switched to ignition power and four powered on at all time each controlled with a switch. I do lot have new connections. I was planning on removing and cleaning each connector and cleaning each fuse block. I have basic electrical tools. I plan to crimp and solder all my connections. This circuit will be completely seperate from my cab harness. This fuse block does not have a stamped bus circuit which is why I asked the questions on this forum; What gauge wire do I use to connect my fuses together on my block (to make my own bus connections.) You say you would not use this type of block because of lack of circuit protection? If I had some extra cash I would purchase a nice pre made one. Please tell me what you would do different for circuit protection using what I have. I plan on using a large fuse instead of a circuit breaker.

I read every link you posted and have come up with a new schematic. I will post it when I get a chance to draw it up. The terminal block is an awesome idea. Thank you again for the links, very, very, informative. I may use four relays instead of just one.

Thanks again gentleman I appreciate all the information. As always any ideas, corrections, criticism, is always welcomed.

5280jo