Electrical Electrical and wiring

H4 HID Bi-Xenon Projector Lens Retrofit with Cutoff/Hi-Beams

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Old 01-16-2011, 11:35 PM
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H4 HID Bi-Xenon Projector Lens Retrofit with Cutoff/Hi-Beams

Hello everyone, I just wanted to do a short writeup on how I put in HID projectors into my 1993 2WD Toyota Pickup. I saw that someone posted a writeup a while back on this but I just wanted to elaborate on it for my specific car. It’s been a year since I put this kit on my car and it still works strong with no ballast issues or bulbs going out.

Equipment Needed:
- Dremel
- Oven
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Oven Mitt

Materials Needed:

- Bi-Xenon Projector Lens Kit, Generation 1 (G1) http://new-helios.en.alibaba.com/pro...ens_Light.html
- H4 Conversion Headlight Housings - Must have removable center light reflecting bracket
- Gasket material that comes with Bi-Xenon Projector Lens Kit



Preparing the Headlight Housings
First thing is to soften the gasket between the glass and the housing. Heat your oven at 300 F and place the housings on a baking sheet for 10 minutes. The gasket should be soft and can be removed by rocking the glass until it separates. Easiest way to do this would be to wear an oven mit and rock it.



Once separated, use a Phillips screwdriver and remove the reflector. Here is what the inside of the housing will look like when completed.


The bi-xenon projector lens will not fit in the housing without modifications to the housing. The way to achieve this is to take a dremel and dremel the inside around the hole. After this, you can no longer rely on the H4 template guide to orient the projector lens. This will be something that you will have to eyeball when you place the projector lens inside. Keep dremeling until the projector lens with the gasket fits inside the housing and clears the glass.


Place the retaining ring on the thread and tighten the projector lens to the housing. I used pliers to make the ring tighter while pushing on the projector lens to make it tighter against the gasket.


Make sure that the projector lens is oriented in the correct position. Take the gasket material that came with the kit, make sure it is warm and apply to the gap where the old gasket material was. Place the glass over it and use strong rubber bands, tape, etc. to keep the glass attached while the gasket material cures. Below is the end result. Later, I decided to take the housing apart and paint the inside of the housings from chrome to flat black to possibly avoid reflection.




Here I placed a gasket around the ends of the housing, however, I decided to remove this because of difficulty to keep it on.


The rest of the time was spent wiring up the kit and aiming the headlights. Below are some pictures of the kit and wiring locations. I did not do a write up on this as the directions that were included with the kit were pretty self explanatory.

I placed a tie wrap around the housing connector because of the worry that it was going to come apart. I have since then removed it and replaced it with electrical tape and have not had any problems.



Lots of Wires!



Completed housing placed inside of the truck.



Completed truck!



Picture of lighting!




Conclusion
The cutoff line isn’t as nice as some of the other projectors I have seen but it still remains pretty good for the price and ease of putting together the kit. I chose 6000K bulbs because of the similarity to sunlight. When you press the high beams, a shutter activates and opens allowing light to disperse beyond the cutoff line. As seen from the pictures, this is a significant improvement over the stock beams. Feel free to email me for any other questions.

Thanks,
ctrL1
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