Same old stalling problem
 

Going to try for advice one more time, then I might just buy a Weber...
Pretty much since I started driving my truck after it's rebuild, I've had an intermittent stalling issue. Never when it's cold, never first thing. It only happens when it's warm out, and when the truck has already been driven for the day. I then start it again after anywhere from 5 minutes to 4 hours, and it just stalls right away. Only way to keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas. Usually, but not always, just driving it a short distance makes the problem go away. Sometimes it won't go away, though. Often it starts up just fine and runs just fine. Other times it starts up fine then dies at a light. Sometimes it just stalls right away on start up. But it always starts right back up, it just won't stay running unless I give it gas. Sometimes when this happens I smell gas, like it's flooding, but not always.

I have a rebuilt engine, new plugs wires cap rotor distributer coil ignitor, rebuilt carb. EGR plugged off. New fuel filter, pulled the drain on the gas tank in case there was crud in there. And again, it doesn't always happen. I've been thinking maybe the fuel cut solenoid? But could this only malfunction sometimes and not others? Webers don't have one, right? So would my truck run if I just removed it? I feel like testing to see if it clicks would do me no good, since it's obviously working some of the time, even if it is my problem.

Especially since I already paid to have my carb rebuilt, and because of all the nice little thing like the truck starting with one pump of gas even in sub-zero weather, I'd prefer to keep the Aisin carb...but much more of this and the thing's gone; replaced by a Weber.

There are also times when on the interstate, I slowly lose power, to the point where it's bucking, and lose speed. Pulling over and replacing the fuel filter has helped, but the filter never looks clogged, so I think something else is going on. I drove all the way from Helena, MT, to Phoenix AZ and it didn't happen once, then it happened twice on the drive back. Could this be part of the same problem? It's really getting annoying to essentially have a brand new truck, and the thing still isn't technically reliable. :bang:

Thanks!!

Edit- in case it's not clear enough in my sig: 83 4x4, rebuilt engine, tranny, carb, new battery coil ignitor plugs & wires rotor cap distributer, pretty much all new vacuum lines...probably more but it's too much to remember sometimes...

I think there are three wires going to the carb the large red one is for the choke i believe
and the other two are for the solenoid try running a ground straight to the ground on the battery and see if it helps.thats what i did.not sure which one is the ground though

Ok I'll see if my manual says which is the ground. Don't think it does...but maybe I can follow the wires. Nobody else? Seems like this is just one of those problems people are clueless about I guess.

So are you saying run the ground to the negative terminal, or to the bolt that the negative terminal of the battery grounds to? Today the truck is doing it bad...no matter how much I drive it, it won't stay running unless I stay on the gas.

run it directly to the ground on the battery.it will be hard to follow the wires they go into a plug then into the harness.the wire coming off the soleniod has a sleeve on it that contains two wires there should be a verry thin black wire that should be it.most rebuild kits do not come with a replacement the solenoid so it could still be bad.grounding it out still may not work.but from all the post ive read about the asin carb this has been a common problem.good luck

Alright thanks. I think I saw a black one, and a white one with a black stripe. I'll splice another length of wire onto it and wire it to the negative terminal.

Well, after searching back through a few old threads, I decided the white (or maybe it's yellow) with a black stripe was the negative wire. Wired it straight to the negative terminal. We'll see what happens. Been chilly since yesterday afternoon so I'll be interested to see what happens when it warms back up. If I picked the wrong wire and wired the positive wire to the negative battery terminal, what would happen? I'm assuming that since the truck runs, I must have got it right. Hopefully the fuel cut solenoid was my problem, and this fixes it. I'll probably get a Weber at some point anyways, but there are some other things that should be fixed first, so this would free up some money..

It's still a bit early to tell since the problem is so intermittent...but it was happening a ton lately, and today after the temp warmed up, and I drove it, and it sat in the sun...no stalling. We'll see if it lasts, but running the wire to the battery (-) may have done it.

i have been having the same problem lately. has your rewiring of the carb fixed the issue?? let me know please!! the intermittent of the issue is really really aggrivatting

It's been about two weeks and I haven't stalled once.

can u post pics of what u did? that would help a lot

Yeah, I'll get a pic up later today.

Basically though, if you can find the fuel cut solenoid on the back passenger side of the carb (FSM is great), there are two wires coming out. Mine had one black, and one that was either white/black or yellow/black. I followed it out to the where it plugs into another harness going to the battery, pulled it out of the plug, and wired it straight to the negative battery terminal. Haven't stalled once since I did it, and it was getting to be a daily occurance there for a while (multiple times a day actually).

Sorry this one's a bit blurry. Couldn't get my close up setting working with the flash. This is the fuel cutoff solenoid, with two wires coming out the back.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...Fuelcutoff.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...uelcutoff2.jpg

This is the plug those wires go to. It's pretty easy to trace the wires to here.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...uelcutoff3.jpg

I just pulled it out of here (the white/black one) spliced it to more length of wire, and connected it straight to the negative battery terminal. Sorry I've got the radio wired right to the positive terminal right now so there's a couple blue wires going on there.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...uelcutoff4.jpg

just saying thank you for the pictures and info. i did this to my truck and it is running much better.

Sweet! That's very cool. I was getting really annoyed that even after my carb rebuild, I was still stalling. I can handle noises and stuff like that, but when you pull up to a stop sign near some people or whatever, and stall...kinda embarrassing.

just did the same thing to my 82. I did a full carb rebuild and it STILL stalled when hot. It is much more peppy now but the stalling is still there.
I will keep you posted on any changes since running the ground to the battery.
:fire:

Are you sure your losing fuel? Does it just shut off instantly oh does it kinda sputter and put then cut off? Sure your not losing spark? I believe those trucks had a coil and an ignitor if i'm not mistaken. It might be in the dicrection. You can check them both for resistance. I believe its in any repair manual.

Mine is fixed! At least for now. I drove it to the market and back. It would always stall at the stop sign off the freeway but not anymore. Didn't stall once. For now it is fixed. :D

That's great.

Yeah, these trucks have a coil and an ignitor. My ignitor went out about a year ago. For me, it just wouldn't start anymore. Would crank and crank and crank, but never turn over.

Hopefully this will solve a lot of people's problems.

After doing a full carb rebuild and this wire by-pass my 82 truck is running as good or better than my EFI 94! It is actually a pleasure to drive and I look forward to running errands in it. My gas milage is much better!
:domo2::domo2::domo2::domo2::domo2:

Awesome