94 Toyota pickup sitting for 7 yrs
06-28-2018, 05:01 PM
#25
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No air
Hey fellas,
i tried turning the air on and I got nothing, I figured fuses so I swapped both out the 10&30 but nothing again, any ideas. I get nothing when I turn it to any speed and the ac light won't turn on when I press it. Not something I need right now, getting the truck running was priority but what do u guys think, all ur ideas last time help me out big time! Thanks in advance fellas!
i tried turning the air on and I got nothing, I figured fuses so I swapped both out the 10&30 but nothing again, any ideas. I get nothing when I turn it to any speed and the ac light won't turn on when I press it. Not something I need right now, getting the truck running was priority but what do u guys think, all ur ideas last time help me out big time! Thanks in advance fellas!
06-28-2018, 08:12 PM
#26
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What do you mean, exactly by no air?
Are you having a problem with just the Air Conditioner or the entire Heating / Ventilation system?
Does the blower work on any speed, regardless if the Air Conditioning is on or off?
06-28-2018, 08:27 PM
#27
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Hmmmm, ac light out points to power as when my compressor had a leak and I had no air the ac light would still light up when pressed, any action out of the compressor when you turn on the ac?
The ac indicator light can also burn out so it might be on but you just can’t tell. Hard to say after 7 years IF it was working when it was parked...
Looking good though, I bet it was happy when you gave it some wash love
. Excellent!!!!
The ac indicator light can also burn out so it might be on but you just can’t tell. Hard to say after 7 years IF it was working when it was parked...
Looking good though, I bet it was happy when you gave it some wash love
. Excellent!!!!Last edited by Discombobulated; 06-28-2018 at 08:28 PM.
06-28-2018, 09:28 PM
#28
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Ac
yea it won't turn on in any speed hot or cold nothing comes out the vents, it doesn't matter when setting I have on, blower motor won't kick on (very dirty btw) that needs to be taken out and cleaned. Could it be the relay above the two fuses ? Or is there something else behind the glovebox I should check, doesn't look like there much behind it. Just came back from a ride btw, had the e brake on for first and 2nd gear, wondered why it was so slow, brother won't let it down, I'm sure I'll hear about it for ever. In my defense I drive an auto daily hahahah but still felt great taking it out for a spin.
06-29-2018, 04:26 AM
#29
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You can check the blower motor resistor when you have the motor out, could be fried if all fuses are good, I had to replace mine when I first got my truck. I only had the hi fan speed but nothing else.
Check here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/w...sistor-104474/
Check here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/w...sistor-104474/
06-29-2018, 08:28 AM
#30
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The blower motor resistor only controls the first three speeds (Lo, Medium 1, and Medium 2). The high speed runs off of battery voltage and does not go through the resistor at all.
If the blower does not work on any speed, something else is wrong. It is still a good idea to check the resistor as it can fail over time and use, but I would hold off on that until you can get at least the high speed working.
Do you have a multimeter or a test light?
I cannot find a good schematic for your 1994, but here is one from RAD4Runner for 1986-1988 Trucks and 4Runners. Yours should be similar, but the wiring colors will most likely be different. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52011263
First, we need to know if power is making its way to the blower motor. If you have a multimeter, set it to Volts-DC, unplug the blower motor connector, and turn on the blower on "Hi" speed. Measure the voltage between the terminals on the connector. If all the wiring and fuses are good up until this point, the voltage reading should be around battery voltage (12.6V ish). Be careful to not to touch the two multimeter probes together when testing the voltage or you will blow a fuse.
If the blower does not work on any speed, something else is wrong. It is still a good idea to check the resistor as it can fail over time and use, but I would hold off on that until you can get at least the high speed working.
Do you have a multimeter or a test light?
I cannot find a good schematic for your 1994, but here is one from RAD4Runner for 1986-1988 Trucks and 4Runners. Yours should be similar, but the wiring colors will most likely be different. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52011263
First, we need to know if power is making its way to the blower motor. If you have a multimeter, set it to Volts-DC, unplug the blower motor connector, and turn on the blower on "Hi" speed. Measure the voltage between the terminals on the connector. If all the wiring and fuses are good up until this point, the voltage reading should be around battery voltage (12.6V ish). Be careful to not to touch the two multimeter probes together when testing the voltage or you will blow a fuse.
Last edited by old87yota; 06-29-2018 at 01:04 PM.
06-29-2018, 11:01 AM
#31
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The blower motor resistor only controls the first three speeds (Lo, Medium 1, and Medium 2). The high speed runs off of battery voltage and does not go through the resistor at all.
If the blower does not work on any speed, something else is wrong. It is still a good idea to check the resistor as it can fail over time and use, but I would hold off on that until you can get at least the high speed working.
Do you have a multimeter or a test light?
I cannot find a good schematic for your 1994, but here is one from RAD4Runner for 1986-1988 Trucks and 4Runners. Yours should be similar, but the wiring colors will most likely be different. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52011263
First, we need to know if power is making its way to the blower motor. If you have a multimeter, set it to Volts-DC, unplug the blower motor connector, and turn on the blower on "Hi" speed. Measure the voltage between the terminals on the connector. If all the wiring and fuses are good up until this point, the voltage reading should be around battery voltage (12.6V ish). Be careful to not to touch the two multimeter probes together when testing the voltage or you will blow a fuse.
If the blower does not work on any speed, something else is wrong. It is still a good idea to check the resistor as it can fail over time and use, but I would hold off on that until you can get at least the high speed working.
Do you have a multimeter or a test light?
I cannot find a good schematic for your 1994, but here is one from RAD4Runner for 1986-1988 Trucks and 4Runners. Yours should be similar, but the wiring colors will most likely be different. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52011263
First, we need to know if power is making its way to the blower motor. If you have a multimeter, set it to Volts-DC, unplug the blower motor connector, and turn on the blower on "Hi" speed. Measure the voltage between the terminals on the connector. If all the wiring and fuses are good up until this point, the voltage reading should be around battery voltage (12.6V ish). Be careful to not to touch the two multimeter probes together when testing the voltage or you will blow a fuse.
If you don't have power to the blower motor and you know your fuses are good check the fan switch on the dash, I have seen plenty that have failed and have signs of heat damage on the connector.
06-29-2018, 12:48 PM
#32
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It is better to test with your meter from a good ground to the plus side of the connector to test for voltage then test the ground side of the connector to chassis ground for resistance. that way you don't risk blowing a fuse and you test both power and ground individually.
If you don't have power to the blower motor and you know your fuses are good check the fan switch on the dash, I have seen plenty that have failed and have signs of heat damage on the connector.
If you don't have power to the blower motor and you know your fuses are good check the fan switch on the dash, I have seen plenty that have failed and have signs of heat damage on the connector.
Now if I had a set of back probes, it would make testing much easier and faster, and I could test the circuit without disturbing any connections.
Last edited by old87yota; 06-29-2018 at 01:09 PM.
06-29-2018, 01:03 PM
#33
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So disregard my post OP, BUT if your first 3 speeds don’t work bonus thread material
Last edited by Discombobulated; 06-29-2018 at 01:05 PM.
06-29-2018, 08:43 PM
#34
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Thanks for Info fellas, trying to get it done when I have some time from work, took it out for another drive and it put a smile on my face, after looking at it again just after work (1am) because why not lol, I noticed the relay above the two fuses had some rust around it and when I shook it I can hear something moving around, so that I'll try tomorrow morning when o'reillys opens up. Again HUGE thanks for the help from all of you! Seriously literature gold from you guys. 
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