3M Rubbing Compound
 

This stuff works great. I decided to experiment with it on my work car(2001 burgandy saturn that hadn't been waxed in 2 years) and topped it off with a good wax which brought the life back out in the paint. When I went to get the tires rotated on it earlier today a guy asked me how much I'd charge to detail his but I told him "it's not worth the money!"

I decided to use it on my super white Taco. I've been unhappy with the paint since I bought it used because the previous owner did not take care of it. I had tried the meguirs 3 step, turtle wax platinum, and zaino brother's and still didn't get what I wanted. The Zaino brothers did the best probably and was most durable but still the paint would not lose the dullness and all the oxidation.

I took the 3M compound to it and it knocked out all the oxidation and even minor scratches, i was amazed. After a good coat of wax it's got a nice semi-wet look. I'm still not thrilled with the white as far as a color goes, but the compound is definitely worth a try if you have some paint issues.

Where did you buy it? I looked at the 3M website but didnt see a place to order or a price..

I got mine at pepboys, $9.99 for a normal size bottle.

which 3m product?

glaze? or fine cut?

guys, be VERY careful with rubbing compound. it is definitely the most abrasive of all car care products.

elway: you should really do a coat or two of polish before you do a coat of wax. wax does nothing to restore or enhance that glossy luster all of us try to get when we detail the paint.

bob

Its called 3M rubbing compound. I understand your comment about polish, but its an extra step and on this white i've seen no difference. When I had a black truck i gave it the cleaner, the polish and the wax because thats what it took, but IMHO white is just a boring paint and there is only so much you can do with it, especially the toyo super white.

The 3M compound is not as harsh as some and is very easy to use.

I used this on an old VW once...worked awesome! Used an electric buffer and also by hand...lots of work but worth the effort...got mine from an auto paint supplier...

So what's the difference between polish and wax?

has anyone used this with negative results?

Abrasiveness, cleaners and compounds are rated at different degress of cut or abrasion depending on how much the surface need to move to the next level of glazes and polishes and finally waxing. In most cases if unsure check with a bodyshop or a good detailer or supplier, for the more daring a test in an obscure area with the product. In most cases you will want to start with a fine or very fine compound followed by a good glaze or polish and then a good wax. Also if you use a good clay product it should too be followed by wax.

Definately there can be bad results, usually from too corse of an abrasive. Kinda like using 1000 grit sand paper, although you can in most cases bring it back (a lot of work) or if the paint is too thin in some areas (edges and corners) you could rub through to the primer or worse. Take your time.

I second that...buffer was too much too fast...by hand was HARD, HARD work...take your time and be careful and the payoff wil be worth it.

I third, using the compond by hand is better and take your time, it also doesn't take alot. From my experiment on my car and the results on my yota, i can say IMHO the 3M Rubbing Compound is not too harsh.


You really only need it if the paints been neglected, has light scratches or heavy oxidation. If not I think the Meguiars Deep Crystal Cleaner is supposed to be a good start before polish and wax.

runethechamp- Some polish's have cleaners and are abrasive while others just nourish the paint and give it that shine so you can seal it with a wax. From what ive read the best 3 step is a good low-abrasive cleaner, then a polish with NO abrasives or cleaners, then a good wax. If you need to use a rubbing compound then do it before the polish instead of the cleaner.

As the sun was setting the paint on my yota just looks great, i can rub my hand across my hood and it is completely smooth. Its a brighter white than it was when I bought it so the previous owner definitely did not take car of the paint, which isn't surprising since he didn't change the gear oil, plugs, wires, etc....

What I'm curious about now is, should I just use the compound if needed and go back to the ol 3 step process with a light cleaner, or is the compound something you should use say yearly?

I third, er 4th, or whateve.r..the 3m product I used came in a large plastic bottle and the compund was pretty liquid'y and cream colored. It was not very abrasive and really only worked on the oxidation and surface rust. Didn't seem like ti would do much for the deeper scratchers/blemishes/etc...I'd say it's best for a paint job that just needs a little freshenig up. If it's too far gone, might not be the best thing? Only one way to find out....?

i ordered some of the meguiars deep crystal cleaner.. well see how that works..

I myself also use the 3m rubbing compound, can be purchased at any auto or paint store. Imo never use a electric buffer, unless your a autobody prof. because you can screw up a nice paint job real quick. As bob said, if you use a rubbing compound make sure to follow up with a good polish than a wax. I myself have started using Eagleone Nano wax and that stuff works great. Also theres another use for 3m rubbing compound. Last year I had a veh with a burn mark on the windshield (from someone leaving the windshield wipers on when the window was dry. Now on this I did use a small electric buffer and it took a little bit of time, but I got the scratch or burn mark out of the windshield.

I like to use meguiars. compound myself but I use 3M hand glaze. here are most of the 3M compounds http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

i like the 3M stuff.. gets rid of a lot of the the little "whispy" scratches if you use it properly

i also heard that is best to clean, polish, wax in straight lines(as the wind flows down the body)and not the old fashioned circular wax on/wax off method......the old method will show a scratch/blemish at all angles while the new method will hide it the best