Badfish740

I've been impatient waiting for my parts to get here and it's a nice day outside so I decided to try cranking my torsion bars. I've always heard about it, never tried it, and figured, "what the hell?" I was thinking BJ spacers for the front eventually, but until then a T-bar crank should do just fine to compliment my rear lift a'la ZUK. I had about 13.5" from the top of the wheel arc to the fender lip. I cranked each side 5 times, let it down, drove it down the street and slammed on the brakes to bounce the front end to settle it, and came back for a measurement. 5 cranks got me about a .5" and I was sitting solidly at 14" on each side.

I had read that the max height/tension before the ride gets really rough is 15", so I figured I'd go 14.5" and call it a day. I lifted it up to crank the bars another 5 times and on the 5th crank on the passenger side bar the bolt moved but the half moon (not sure of the name of this part-adjuster) piece that encircles the bolt did not. I stopped turning for fear that I had broken the bolt, but it seemed as though everything was intact. I set the truck down again, drove it carefully down the driveway and everything seemed normal. I repeated the same thing (hitting the brakes, etc...) and got it back to level ground where I measured and sure enough was right on 14.5". I'm worried about the passenger side bar though-does that just mean that I need new adjuster bolts? Is the truck unsafe to drive with a bad bolt or does it just mean that they can't be turned anymore?

Greg_Canada

IF the bolts are original they should be replaced.
I'd replace the bolts and the moons then you have nothing to worry about.

MaK92-4RnR

I laid my truck down on the Torsion bar mount last week and bend the adjuster bolt to hell & back. I wouldn't even worry about it. lol you'll end up cutting all that crap out anyway once you get more involved in the sport and want to solid axle it.

Greg_Canada

IF the bolts are original they should be replaced.
I'd replace the bolts and the moons then you have nothing to worry about.

MudHippy

Heard you the first time...but you're wrong...

Nothing should move except the bolt and the "half moon". And if it didn't, that's fine. It doesn't have to. You'll know when you've reached the point that it can't be adjusted further, when you can't turn the bolt anymore without snapping it, that's the limit.

Badfish740

Sounds like 14.5" will work just fine

I figured as much, but what the hell do I know? I about crapped my pants the first time I turned the adjuster bolt-nobody said to expect a loud "BANG!" as the half moon piece seated! As for a SAS I don't think I'll ever have the time, tools, or money together in one spot to actually do one. The Blazeland kit scares me less since it's all bolt on-besides, I don't do rocks and all that stuff. I just hunt and cut firewood at the ends of trails that normally only quads will go down

Greg_Canada

I've heard stories of original bolts snapping when adjusted.

BlazeN8

I've found its a good idea to take the weight off the front end before turning the adjusting bolt. Before you start adjusting measure the amont of threads protruding to get a baseline and write it down. Place a jack under the front crossmember and elevate untill both front tires come off the ground. With most of the load removed from the adjusting assembly it turns much easyer and is less likely to break something. Some years have a jam nut on top of the main nut so be sure you remove it before you make adjustments. Also if you feel inclined take the bolt out clean the threads and apply anti-seize on the threads and all the metal on metal moving parts. When the suspension is unloaded and everything is lubed up you can almost turn the nut and bolt with your fingers.

jsamarin

hate to bring up an old thread, but im having the same problem as the OP, but doing the opposite thing. the p/o of my truck cranked the t-bars to 15 inches in the front, and did nothing to the back, so it got a mad rake to the truck. when i go to loosen the drivers side, the half moon piece turns with the bolt and i cant seem to get it not to torn with the bolt. does anyone have any suggestions?

donomite49

use penetrating oil a couple times a day for a few days or a week before trying to adjust.

after that you might have to heat the bolt to break it loose.

you might have to disassemble, wire wheel everything and antisieze.

be prepared to replace a bolt and or a nut, i did when i had to cut one side out to remove the torsion bars when i did my motor swap.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Jsamarin, which half moon piece are you referring to? The one that the bolt threads into? Or the washer-type one under the bolt head?

I'm not familiar with IFS components, but looking at the above diagram, there appear to be two.

Mud, in the top right of the diagram, PN 90179-xxxxx, is that a threaded sleeve? So the to half moons, PN 48173, are just washers essentially?

donomite49

the moon shaped washers are just that, washers on both ends of the bolt.

my 88 has one large (about 1"long) nut and a regular size locknut on each side.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

So if the half moons are washers, they don't need to turn, or they can turn and be ok?

donomite49

they rust onto the bolt, the factory does not put grease or antisieze on them.
thats why i had to cut one of mine out.

they are not designed to turn with the bolt.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Oh... Gotcha.

BlazeN8

The bolt (48173A) and ball shape washer (48173 lower) can turn together or independently. The keyed washer (48173 upper) shouldn't rotate as it is keyed to the torque arm anchor brackets (48107 or 48108) The nut in the diagram is from a later model. The earlier model has a long nut and a short nut on top (the lock nut) If you have the lock nut it is a must to remove it before adjustments. The bolt threads are fine and tight tolerance so any rust or debris will gall them up and it will seize. Clean them with a wire brush and soak with penetrating oil or WD40 before adjusting. It is common the nut and bolt will be seized or will seize. When it is seized I have found that if you can grip on the nut and put enough force on the bolt it will break the bolt and allow disassembly. Be careful as when it lets go it may shoot apart with great force. A piece of plywood as a shield is a good idea so it doesn't punch or dent the floor pan.

Wuffa

I've also got one that's cranked up more than I'd like.
Is it a good idea to go get some new bolts and nuts before I mess with it and plan on replacing them?
Also, if its been cranked up for a while, are the torsion bars still going to be ok or do they get permanently twisted?

Zpd426

+1 on lifting the front up almost off the ground when adjusting those bolts and use lots of lube (wd40/bolt breaker/penetrating stuff)!

It sucks to have those bolts break because your torsion keys will shoot through your floor ( I didnt think of using plywood for a shield).

I have two nice holes under both of my seats that I had to plug because of old rusted bolts, If your going to mess with them you might as well replace them.

All bars need to be replaced at some point. Having them cranked will put a little more stress on them. If your truck starts to sink down again after you tightened your bars and your keys havnt moved... Then they are twisted and will never untwist... DO NOT tighten them again. let them be until you can replace your bars.

canuck351

I broke off my adjusting bolts even though they had no sighn of corrosion on the threads at all and even with the broken stub ground flat on both sides in the vise with the nut heated red hot and the stub broke off again.
I found replacement bolts at lc engeniering for $18 not a bad price.
My question is the Factory Service manual says messure the thread length when disassembling them but when you are putting new ones in any ideas on setting the preload on them?
I am guessing snug both adjusters up until snug then torque them both up the same amount?
does anyone know how to check the adjustment I am thinking weigh both wheels for equal load?