tires rub drive line hits yoke
 

okay so i have a big lift lots of flex but my 35'' tires rub before my suspension is at full flex. also my rear drive line hits the yoke before my rear is even close to flexing out. might need shortened??


Note I don't cut fenders I do it the right way..Just not sure about the best way to go is.


Just looking for suggestions thanks.

ohh yeah dont lauph at my front end lol I bought the truck in pieces and this is its first trail run to test... with new motor.. I have a billet high steer going on but I need time to install it..
[this is not a daily]

http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/...ds/Pic0013.jpg

Hmmm what makes you think the wrong way is to cut fenders? The wrong way would be to put an 8" lift onto a truck to run 35's and not keep the lower center of gravity all because you don't want to clearance the fenders or use proper backspacing on the rims.

Nothing wrong with trimming fenders. It's actually safer then lifting the truck. Just sayin.

BTW, call me crazy, but I kinda like that front bumper. Just got to get it to match the body lift you got on that thing.

Couldn't have said that better. 35's on 2" of lift FTW! :D



:dj:

Its 4 inch lift and then a body lift. I have removed the body lift. that was done b4 I got the truck. I made motor mounts to lower the engine 2'' to keep the factory angles. well close to it ... My rear drive line sits about 1/2'' from the yoke when the rear flexes it bottoms out and hits the yoke.... I dont want my drive lines binding up lol. Makes for a short wheeling trip it has me stumped.


I just don't like cutting up vehicles to make something fit.

the tire only rubs on the rear side of the wheel well. ( Move front axle forward )?

are the bump stops extended?
also:

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...duct.php?id=80

https://www.allprooffroad.com/8489su...locationplates

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml (half way down the page)

And I have never hear of someone lowering and engine to fix pinion angles. Usually the right way to do that is either shims, drive train lifts and cut and turn the spring perches.

So you'll lower the engine (wrong way) but you think cutting a body is the wrong way? :think: I still don't get it. Are you just building a mall crawler?

Also I have never heard of someone having to shorten a driveshaft because they lifted a truck or added travel, usually it's the other way around, either lengthen driveshaft or use a driveshaft spacer.

on the rear why not drill new holes in the spring perch to move it back a hair

one a side note, are you sure the rear driveshaft is even the correct one in the truck? Sounds like you might need to get the correct driveshaft. IIRC there is two lengths of driveshafts. Maybe more I forget. Also was the trans changed out in that it would be longer then what the truck originally came with and now is pushing on the driveshaft? What about dual cases does it have em?

You could move the rear axle forward and inch but it depends on the lenght of your rear shackle.....

And the current shackle angle?

No wait a minute, I have been thinking about doing the relocation on mine and now that I think about it, how does that exactly affect the springs and shackles? Because the only thing that moves is the axle not the spring/shackle geometry.

you are right it could be the wrong drive shaft but I do not have anything to compare it to. I moved the engine down to get a better drive line angle. the angle is a little more then stock 1/2 inch to be exactlol...I used shims for the pinion angels the trans is a g52.. I'm not sure if the truck came with it. I bought the tranny after I bout the truck and I dont have dual cases yet. I have two cases but I must buy the adapter.( its in the mail.)


The thing is when you molest the stock config to much. stuff will break alot easier no matter how big and beefy you build it.. I dont like to fix stuff when I go out... So I do everything I can so this don't happen. Theres no better feeling then going out just to go wheeling. not rigging you're truck so you can make it home.

I have a 22r talldeck in the truck now. it is gutless. some people put v8's in it to gain more power lol... I put gears in..... the 22r now has plenty of power.

Some people use wheel spacers.... I use the longer axel out of a later model.

when you need a 14mm wrench some people grab a 9/16''. I dont.

To make a long story longer If I wanted to be like everyone els I would just cut the bed off and take a skill saw to my front fenders... then roll it a few times put a wheeling logo on it... say I'm badda** then I could be fit to drive a yoda I guess




I asked people for advice to tuck a tire without cutting fenders... not to be criticised. Just because it not you're way or the way everyone and there brother does it doesn't mean it isn't the right way...

if you're shackel sits like this // then its bad lol when you're shackel sits like this || or \\ its okay. I like mine like || personally its factory and you get good travel. if you move an axel it is best to move the perch and shackel drilling a whole in the leafs is like wiping b4 you poop. and you have no room for adjustment. and it messes with the pinion angel a hair.

off-road 101 tells you that the lower the truck the better. Which means cutting or trimming fenders is the better way to go. Unless you want to mall crawl and don't have to worry about flopping your truck. Or your doing stuff that you don't even need 35's anyway for and can do it on 31's.

That's constructive criticism and remember your the one who called cutting/trimming fenders wrong and in reality is the best and safest way. Not adding an additional 2" of lift which creates a higher center of gravity. ANd to me lowering the engine just puts the oil pan in more of harms way and is not the correct way to manage driveline angles.

All that matters with driveline angles is whether or not the flanges are parallel with on another. If your still at a steep angle your either lifted too much or need to use a double cardon joint and ditch the standard ujoint.

Still kinda baffled how lowering the engine fixes driveline angles I would think it would make it worse because lowering the engine and leaving the t-case mount the same is just gonna point the output flange up in the rear and down in the front. So basically your making output worse while making the front maybe better.

4crawler has a very good writeup on his site on how to properly fix driveline angle issues. ANd no where in there does it even hint on lowering the engine to fix angles.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml

this is wrong. If you doubt me go ahead and post it on prate4x4 and see the response you get.( not that they are the authority but will get to the point and be blunt about it) By the way can you post some pics of your engine set up as i'm curious as to how and why you lowered your engine. Kinda want to see the shackle angle you're referring to as well.

I get the change in pinion angle using the axle reloaction shims, what I don't get is why that changes the shackle angle. Pinion angle and shackle angle are two different beasts. If you were moving the front spring hanger in order to move the axle forward I can see how you can go from this || to this // but that's not what the relocation plates do. And who said anything about drilling a hole in a spring? That's not how those relocation shims work. I prefer \\ BTW just because it give a better ride and for a given ride height it actually allows for more droop then this ||. If you start like || you only allow for movement till the springs sag enough to give you //. With up travel you theoretically loose some but very rarely will you put the rear shackles onto the frame like you can on the front which is rectifiable by using boomerang shackles or dare I say it a double shackle setup.

Oh and starting like this || there is a much better chance of inverting the shackles which is very very bad.

Is you engine a carb engine? if not then it did not come with a g series trans. If so then it might have. Original trans should be listed on the vin plate.

your are some what right on the height... if you are really high you could roll unless your suspension is loose. then it don't really matter except branches lol...


I have 4'' lift now the kid I bought it from had like a 14'' lift lol. the drive train is lowerd 2 inchish ( I should of been more specific) my oil pan is a slim design. I have a scrape plate. in the front. toyota rears in the front and chev 56'' in the rear. my tire no longer rubs...... I can tuck a 35inch tire inside my dam fenders with out cutting them... I got the design from a kid off youtube.... he did it in a 79 crawler.. once I finish My dual case I will post some pics. showing the setup..... so people can do it a sturdy way not with spacers or or shims and that junk...



this is what i got from you're link

A frequently asked question is about driveshafts and angles and so forth, is "How much shim do I need for X" of lift" or "Is Y° shim too much?". Well, there really is no general answer to these general questions, rather the right answer is what works for that particular situation. For example, assuming that the driveshaft is aligned properly in a vehicle with stock suspension, if it is lifted with a block or spring lift, then everything should still be lined up, at least with a single-cardan driveshaft.


All I did was but the drivetrain back to factory condition.... the best way... but its not the easyest... making motor mounts and crap is not somthing someone would like to do when they make a shim for it....


in my case the truck was in pices so I said im going to put it where i want it.


go on you tube type in [busy wild elbe ] theres like 1 good video of the trails I go on most. theres big rocks ruff trials mud pits. steep hills and water holes. My vehicle must be all terrain.... not a crawler or a bogger. It has to last them all... Thats why I run my vents in my cab and air intake all under my dash lol most of the guys around my town just beat up there trucks and dirty our trails then they break down in the middle of it. because they use zip ties to hold sh** toghether lol


thanks for trying to help... I'm off to build

my shackel angle is straight up and down well just about i made it like a few degrees like this \\ but its just about stock. I'm wondering what is wrong about it if you angel is like // this you're leaf fold up and hit you;re frame it its || then it will travel \\ this way which is good xtream22r is right mine arnt perfectly straight lol but there is only so many keys on the keyboard.. mighty mouse calm way down lol I think you miss read it... if I am wrong then show me the facts lol I'd like to know the proper angle of the shackle

whoa if you went from 14" of lift to 4" of lift. gonna assume 3" of that 14 was the body lift which is irrelevant right now. You went from 11" to 4" of suspension only lift? And you wonder why your driveshaft seems too long????????? :think: Maybe that's because it was lengthened to compensate the lift and the d-haft from tearing itself off the splines.

See in order to get accurate help you have to give full details and 11 or so to 4 inches of lift is kinda important.

I said it was like 14'' lol I know the leafs were 7'' sky jacker lift set... then like 3-4 inch shackles then a 3 inch body lift. it was ridicules lol... as of right now I have installed the toyota rears up front and the chev 56'' in rear... I did realize the rear drive shaft was on backwards lol So I would say right now I have about 4.25 inches of lift. after I made some good shackles... I'm working on the shock hoops and mounts now. and high steer.... then I just might do /\ that kinda rear shock mount...

what are the benifits?? More travel??

but 4 link might be the way I go. Not sure if I want to take the time making one on a toyota then I would really have to cut fenders LOL or a dove tail

any thoughts?




The drive shaft looks untouched either someone did an excellent job re fabing the drive shaft or it is untouched....Thats my guess.. good thing I live 1/2 mile from advanced drive-lines lol


well back to the build. she aint gonna do her herself.:drink:

Some good pics of everything would make what you have easier to understand and you'd get better relevant advice as to what you want to accomplish.

It is much better to rotate spring perches on the rear axle than to shim. I personally would never use shims on anything, it's like a lift block with an angle. :nono:

:wabbit2: