deedubs

Hi Guys

I'm looking at buying a used 1993 4Runner with a 1995 V6 swapped in. Apparently the swapped engine has only about 80,000 kms and is (or should be) in great shape as the swap was less than 20,000km ago. Other work done lately includes a rebuilt auto tranny, new dist., plugs, wires, with all clean fluids at proper levels.

Problem is, it's idling very slowly, sounds smooth, but like it's about to stall - and apparently has barely enough power to make it up steep hills. According to the owner, he put 1/3 of a bottle of seafoam in the gas, the brake booster, and (I think) the engine oil. It blew out smoke, he drove it for a few hours, washed the engine bay, and then the problem started. Apparently it is not throwing any codes at all.

Do you guys think it is simply an egr stuck open? I tried a propane test for vaccuum leaks and couldn't find any.

Thanks for your help, I am searching the forum and learning lots.

ksti

I'm assuming a 3.4 swap was done.
When you say throwing codes do you mean you checked for stored codes? Maybe something got soaked with water that shouldn't have.
Would also change the oil & filter again in about 200 miles to remove Seafoam contaminants.

deedubs

The guy selling it is an apprentice HD mechanic and says he scanned it with OBD1 and OBD2, showing nothing.

I think the new engine is a 1995 3.0 - according to seller it shouldn't have head gasket issues. I'm not clear on this, as I thought the Head gasket issue went away after the change to 3.4 V6.

I agree that new oil and filter is required but obviously that's not whats causing it to idle super slow and have no power.

deedubs

Bump - I'm going to clean out the egr valve as best I can, replace a bunch of vac lines, and it that doesn't help, see if it runs better with the O2 sensor removed - to check for a clogged cat...

Ideas?

deedubs

Unplugged the O2 sensor to see if a clogged cat was causing too much backpressure: no change.

Cleaned out all spark plugs, noticed only some of them had oil deposits and some were clean, light orange.

Pulling the plug wire from the middle plug on the driver's side doesn't affect idle AT ALL, but wire is delivering power (I get shocked)...Swapped out spark plug and no change.

Thoughts? I'm not a mechanic... it seems like perhaps only some of the cylinders are getting fuel, perhaps some lines are clogged. Where/what should I clean??

ksti

I'm still not convinced there's no codes stored. The PO being a mechanic should at least know how to check for a code on this motor.
A code reader IMHO is not the way to go on these motors (3vze) and I just don't see the point.
So just humor me and put a paper clip on te1 and e1 on diagnostic port. Turn key on but don't start.
Look at the flashes on dash. If it flashes constant then it's ok.

Attached is a pic of diagnostic port.
On the cap is the chart where the paper clip goes te1 and e1.
This will be the best way to confirm any codes stored at this time. Then you can move on to check other things.
Also take a picture of the sparkplugs with the cylinder marked it came out of and post it. Good luck

deedubs

I jumped the diagnostic box and all I got was a flashing CEL, quick repetitive flashes with no pattern.

RE Spark plug wires, on the drivers side the leads go 6, 4, 2 away from the driver and on the other side, 5,3,1 going away from the passenger. (going by the numbers on the distributor)

I'm surprised it's not showing a code for the missing electrical sensor/plug that I have removed from the EGR valve, as circled in red in the photo.

The little diagnostic box was full of white goopy corrosion, cleaned it with electrical spray..

.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

The white goopy stuff is an anti-corrosion grease.... From the factory. Might wanna put some back in there.

ksti

^X2 on the grease.





Check firing order again just to be sure.
Also whats your timing set at?

deedubs

Thanks for the heads up about the grease.

According to the manual and the image you posted, the firing order is correct, sorry if it was unclear.

So I'm thinking it MAY be a stuck open egr, but most likely fuel related - clogged injectors, filter/pump, maybe fuel lines... I've got a mechanic friend coming to check it out.

Any input is appreciated, thanks all.

ksti

Also whats your timing set at?


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bone collector

the flashing check engine light IS THE CODES!!! If it goes FLASH FLASH pause FLASH FLASH FLASH FLASH that would be code 24 it will then pause again and either repeat or do another set of flashes for another code...

deedubs

There's no pause. That means no codes as far as I know.

I'll check the timing, will post back here.

deedubs

Cylinders 6 and 4 are not firing. No difference with the plug wires in or out; plug wires and plugs work/ swapped..

Burnt exhaust valves? Piston rings? Compression test is in order..

ksti

That inhales profusely,
Could be injectors, but I would do the compression test to see the bigger picture.
Post back readings.

bone collector

Distributor cap in working order??? #6 or #4 leads worn off?? just tossing out ideas to check

ksti

I was looking at picture of drivers side plug wires and was wondering if there are 2 different brands on that side?
Also noticed distributor bolt looks like its topped out.
Maybe timing is to far retarded.

deedubs

Good eye - Yes, there are two brands on that side. The lines are fairly clean/new looking and don't have any obvious damage, and I have swapped them to working cylinders to check operation.

As a non-mechanic, I am unfamiliar with adjusting timing - Is it safe to loosen the distributor and play with the angle until it runs smoother?

Pretty sure it's burnt exhaust valves...Tried the paper-test at the exhaust and it gets sucked in and out...flapping... Is it typical for cylinder #4 to get burnt valves as well?

deedubs

Replaced today, old one looked fine...ran the same.

deedubs

Well, I'm 99% sure the exhaust valves in #6 and #4 cylinders are shot. Selling for parts and looking at 22re's and pathfinders. Crappy.

Priced out a top end rebuild ~ $2500 from a reputable shop. But they won't touch it with their warranty unless we machine the block and at that point it's a full rebuild for about $3500. Which are fair prices IMO but not economical nor practical for me. Love the 4runners but I got burnt with this one unfortunately.