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Rebuild Toyota 22RE nets loss of power

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Old 02-10-2013, 11:39 PM
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Dont remember which post I seen it in, but it was mentioned that the head bolts were torqued to 58#. I dont have my manual with me as I have it written in it, but Toyota came up with a revision of 62 or 64 foot pounds. I dont remember which it is right now but it needs to be a little tighter then 58.
Old 02-11-2013, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
Dont remember which post I seen it in, but it was mentioned that the head bolts were torqued to 58#. I dont have my manual with me as I have it written in it, but Toyota came up with a revision of 62 or 64 foot pounds. I dont remember which it is right now but it needs to be a little tighter then 58.
Here is a pretty detailed (long winded?) thread about that.

Spec was increased to 61 ft/lbs. 65 ft/lb is generally acceptable also.

Your trusted mechanic should be able to perform that task in under an hour. It is also the cheapest posssible solution to your issues if they are totally caused by a gasket fit issue.

*totaly not related to your problems*
OMG someone want to barter 1038$ worth of custom software/hardware/recumbent-tricyle. That is a sweet deal 949+shipping, I want one to just to have a spare hanging around!
Old 02-11-2013, 01:50 AM
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LOL^^^...This week they are $795 plus shipping. You missed the on sale part.http://www.unitedengine.com/index.ph...d=10&Itemid=55 I have had great luck with two of their motors already and they send a gasket kit with it which it already has a head gasket installed so you get a free head gasket with it. Works out great when you have to do a topend rebuild on another motor.
Old 02-11-2013, 11:06 AM
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Still slightly off-topic but related

Ah, I was looking at the one off the front page "Weekly specials, 22re w/covers", thought I'd found a short cut to the "specials" page. The one you linked does mention a core, and the one I linked has a different title "w/covers" (doesn't say what covers). But otherwise appear the same. If anyone spots or asks the difference between those two specials, speak up. Not gonna waste thier time I don't have the extra cash
Old 02-11-2013, 11:35 AM
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I would guess the $995 one comes with pan and valve covers.

There is a specials tab on the left. When I click on it, I see the $795.00 22re, but it does have a core requirement or $250.00. It also says it is a 22r longblock in the description, which makes me wonder about the head.
Old 02-11-2013, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BamaYota1
I would guess the $995 one comes with pan and valve covers.

There is a specials tab on the left. When I click on it, I see the $795.00 22re, but it does have a core requirement or $250.00. It also says it is a 22r longblock in the description, which makes me wonder about the head.
Yeah probably a timing cover too. regarding the head they are interchangable as long as they are the right years, eg square round or pear port shapes.

Old 02-14-2013, 04:27 PM
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I've pretty much given in to fact my rebuilt engine job was 'crap'. My REAL mechanic went over all the facts you guys asked. It's been a problem for a year now, and time to MOVE ON* ... Looking at 2 good options to buy, from Toyota-vampers forum on Yahoo groups.com.
PRO Vs. Con advice of Used TOY w/4 cyl 22 RE VS. 6 cyl diff engine. Am mostly interested in Reliability-Endurance + Miles per Gallon. Both look really clean, trusted members. Not dependent in going FAST, slower and reliability is THE #1 Priority.
The 86 we owned for 12 yrs was 4 cyl, bought NEW off the lot, and we couldn't have been happier! Reliable AND 18-21 mpg.
Ideas, Comments, EveryOne* ~.~
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:44 PM
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Are you looking at engines or comete campers? You probably don't want to pay a mechanic to figure out how to do a swap.

I wouldn't buy a used engine. There is just no way to know how the previous owner treated the motor. I would be more inclined to have yours rebuilt again. It may just need to be overhauled if you only have 800 miles since total rebuild. It could just have a bad ring or something really simple. I'd at least pay to have your mechanic tear it down and find out why it failed. Unfortunately, sometimes even the best work fails.

If you don't want to do anything to the motor you have, you should buy a crate motor from a reputable seller. I don't have any personal experience, so I can't recommend a builder. With a new longblock though, you will get a real warranty, and an engine that has been built professionally.
Old 02-14-2013, 05:12 PM
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Question Re: looking now at USED Toy Camper, NOT Engine !

What I've moved on to is: Purchasing a 'new' USED TOY Camper. 1 RV with 4 cyl 22RE ( same Monster engine), or 1 with the 6 cl V-6 I've read a lot about Maybe Valve adjustments needing regular servicing; Kind temperamental? Both good clean rigs, worthy owners, 60-70,000 miles. Any comments, if YOU had to pick between the two? Reliability and MPG most important. FASTER is not the big + for me. Just don't strand a single small woman alone on the road.

THANKS! all . . .
Old 02-14-2013, 05:17 PM
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Ok. That makes more sense.
It really depends on which 6 cylinder is in the camper. If it is a 3.0, forget about it. Those engines are dogs and prone to head gasket failures, along with worse gas mileage than the 22re. If it is a newer 3.4, I would say get it. Otherwise, you'd be better off with the familiar 22rez
Old 02-15-2013, 04:53 AM
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Hello, ment to check in on you yesterday but I was swamped.

Please don't take it the wrong way.. Do not throw money at the problem such that you might end up in the same/similar situation a few months down the road. Find out when your friendly mechanic can fit you in to install one of those shiney remanufactured engines with warranty. I think you would be happier in the end.

Regarding the new to you RV's.

I would appreciate the extra power of the six cylinder, for example uphill and into the wind, but not it's fuel econ'.

The four cylinder will without a doubt last longer, it has steel parts where the six has rubber (The timing mechinisim), and has fewer moving parts overall.

In general I'd stick with what I have and opt towards the shineing new engine. Price and budget is a big factor of course. It's also hard to say what shape an RV engine is in, they all have low miles comparativly as a general rule. What some people think is gentle driving would make others cringe.

There are always unknowns, did gramma let the kids drive it do you think they'd of told her they had the pedal to the floor the whole trip.

I'll stop before I start to ramble or get long winded. I'll leave you with weight your costs rewards and piece of mind carefully. And best wishs!
Old 03-10-2013, 08:52 PM
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I don't know if it was mentioned, but before you give up, check timing with a timing light, adjust the valves and then re-set timing. If these are off they can give a low compression reading. (valves not fully closing)
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