Problem! New 22RE Rebuild = Loss of Power.
12-05-2012, 12:31 PM
#21
Registered User
If, when you jump TE1 and E1 in the diagnosis box...does your idle change? If so then your TPS is good...if not it's bad or out of spec.
Unplugging it and having your truck magically run better is not right. You must have done something else than just that? A TPS has no bearing on having top end power all of a sudden.
If I am looking at your picture right, it looks like your dizzy has the hold down bolt at the top of the adjustment range. If that is correct, then your a tooth off. Which means when they set your timing, they put the dizzy in when the motor was at TDC (0*) insted of (5*) BTDC. The hold down bolt should be about dead center of the adjustment range when in perfect time.
Unplugging it and having your truck magically run better is not right. You must have done something else than just that? A TPS has no bearing on having top end power all of a sudden.
If I am looking at your picture right, it looks like your dizzy has the hold down bolt at the top of the adjustment range. If that is correct, then your a tooth off. Which means when they set your timing, they put the dizzy in when the motor was at TDC (0*) insted of (5*) BTDC. The hold down bolt should be about dead center of the adjustment range when in perfect time.
12-05-2012, 01:05 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
If, when you jump TE1 and E1 in the diagnosis box...does your idle change? If so then your TPS is good...if not it's bad or out of spec.
Unplugging it and having your truck magically run better is not right. You must have done something else than just that? A TPS has no bearing on having top end power all of a sudden.
If I am looking at your picture right, it looks like your dizzy has the hold down bolt at the top of the adjustment range. If that is correct, then your a tooth off. Which means when they set your timing, they put the dizzy in when the motor was at TDC (0*) insted of (5*) BTDC. The hold down bolt should be about dead center of the adjustment range when in perfect time.
Unplugging it and having your truck magically run better is not right. You must have done something else than just that? A TPS has no bearing on having top end power all of a sudden.
If I am looking at your picture right, it looks like your dizzy has the hold down bolt at the top of the adjustment range. If that is correct, then your a tooth off. Which means when they set your timing, they put the dizzy in when the motor was at TDC (0*) insted of (5*) BTDC. The hold down bolt should be about dead center of the adjustment range when in perfect time.
My guess is that the TPS was keeping the throttle plate from opening all the way.. it ran like I had an obsturction in my intake. I could tell that there was a power increase immediately.. I am at 6,300 feet above sea level and any restriction of intake is noticed.
When I jumped the two (TE1 and E1) I don't recall a change but I'll check it again.. I do know that the check engine light started flashing and I was able to see the ignition timing on mark.
12-05-2012, 01:12 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
12-05-2012, 01:25 PM
#26
Registered User
You can see exactly where your bolt use to be...which is more or less dead center in the adjustment range. Still going with your ignition timing is off, by 1 tooth.
12-05-2012, 01:34 PM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
That makes sense to me. So I would have to turn the cam gear one tooth to the left (faceing the front) ? and would the dizzy have to be moved back to 10:30 O'clock again?
12-05-2012, 01:57 PM
#28
Registered User
Don't try to just move the cam gear and reset it...you'll never get it.
To do it right...
1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Bring motor to TDC on the compression stroke. (the two front cam followers will be loose, this is the only reason to remove the valve cover, to check)
3. You should be at 0* on your crank and the little marker on the oil pump.
4. Rotate the engine to 5* BTDC, your oil pump marker will show the number 5. It's only a slight rotation, but it will move your timing by one tooth.
5. Insert your dizzy with the rotor and match mark at 12oclock.
6. The dizzy will rotate back to about 10:30 ish and pointing at the #1 plug wire.
7. Your hold down bolt should be about dead center in the adjustment range.
8. Get a timing light and fine tune timing. Without TE1 and E1 jumped, the timing should be about 12*. With TE1 and E1 jumped (assumes TPS is working) the timing should be at 5*. If your inserted the dizzy correct, there should be very little adjustment done to the dizzy.
9. Done
You should have power throughout the entire power band.
To do it right...
1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Bring motor to TDC on the compression stroke. (the two front cam followers will be loose, this is the only reason to remove the valve cover, to check)
3. You should be at 0* on your crank and the little marker on the oil pump.
4. Rotate the engine to 5* BTDC, your oil pump marker will show the number 5. It's only a slight rotation, but it will move your timing by one tooth.
5. Insert your dizzy with the rotor and match mark at 12oclock.
6. The dizzy will rotate back to about 10:30 ish and pointing at the #1 plug wire.
7. Your hold down bolt should be about dead center in the adjustment range.
8. Get a timing light and fine tune timing. Without TE1 and E1 jumped, the timing should be about 12*. With TE1 and E1 jumped (assumes TPS is working) the timing should be at 5*. If your inserted the dizzy correct, there should be very little adjustment done to the dizzy.
9. Done
You should have power throughout the entire power band.
12-05-2012, 02:22 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Don't try to just move the cam gear and reset it...you'll never get it.
To do it right...
1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Bring motor to TDC on the compression stroke. (the two front cam followers will be loose, this is the only reason to remove the valve cover, to check)
3. You should be at 0* on your crank and the little marker on the oil pump.
4. Rotate the engine to 5* BTDC, your oil pump marker will show the number 5. It's only a slight rotation, but it will move your timing by one tooth.
5. Insert your dizzy with the rotor and match mark at 12oclock.
6. The dizzy will rotate back to about 10:30 ish and pointing at the #1 plug wire.
7. Your hold down bolt should be about dead center in the adjustment range.
8. Get a timing light and fine tune timing. Without TE1 and E1 jumped, the timing should be about 12*. With TE1 and E1 jumped (assumes TPS is working) the timing should be at 5*. If your inserted the dizzy correct, there should be very little adjustment done to the dizzy.
9. Done
You should have power throughout the entire power band.
To do it right...
1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Bring motor to TDC on the compression stroke. (the two front cam followers will be loose, this is the only reason to remove the valve cover, to check)
3. You should be at 0* on your crank and the little marker on the oil pump.
4. Rotate the engine to 5* BTDC, your oil pump marker will show the number 5. It's only a slight rotation, but it will move your timing by one tooth.
5. Insert your dizzy with the rotor and match mark at 12oclock.
6. The dizzy will rotate back to about 10:30 ish and pointing at the #1 plug wire.
7. Your hold down bolt should be about dead center in the adjustment range.
8. Get a timing light and fine tune timing. Without TE1 and E1 jumped, the timing should be about 12*. With TE1 and E1 jumped (assumes TPS is working) the timing should be at 5*. If your inserted the dizzy correct, there should be very little adjustment done to the dizzy.
9. Done
You should have power throughout the entire power band.
Do you think it would be too soon to do an oil change with only 5-6 miles on the new engine? I put in some expensive break-in oil and don't want to replace it unless it's in my best interest. Thanks again!
12-05-2012, 03:41 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update: I plugged in the TPS and started it up (idles fine as always), then I jumped Te1 and e1 (like when checking ignition timing) and I noticed a difference in idle (the idle would drop about 300 to 400 RPM) and the check engine light would flash. I removed the jumper and the idle came back up. I then decided to drive it again with the original TPS plugged in and now it drives fine.. No issues. I'm happy but sort of worried this might happen again.
Should I leave it and at most adjust the original TPS.. do I need to replace it and adjust the new TPS?
Should I leave it and at most adjust the original TPS.. do I need to replace it and adjust the new TPS?
12-05-2012, 04:24 PM
#31
Registered User
Well it shouldn't drop 3-400, but if it's a noticeable drop, its functioning ok in that regard. I would set/adjust whichever TPS you have on there now, and at next opportunity, check out the wiring and plug for it. Sounds like a connection issue to me, if after plugging and unplugging it seems to be working.
'89 22RE 4x4 longbed DLX
Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech
'89 22RE 4x4 longbed DLX
Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech
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