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Was changing my oil the other day and noticed a sensor connection off the engine block that was half assed together and coming apart (frayed wires). I pulled the wires apart and tried to retwist/connect. The wire from the harness on the sensor came out of the connector housing and here we go. After some research this appears to be the oil pressure sender (red arrow in attached pic). The single ended wire (red circle) appears to go to the main harness and through the firewall to the dash. This truck does not have an oil pressure guage in the dash so this must be for the idiot light at a certain low end threshold. This truck has a 3" body lift from the previous owner and I assume the wiring was done to account for this as voila the wire from the harness was roughly 3" before it fell out of the connector and was of poor quality. So my questions are:
1. Is it possible to rewire the connector? If so, please tell me your experience with this. I can afford a new one but don't want to have to buy one if it is not necessary.
2. Suggestions for reconnecting the wiring to the main harness? Barrel crimp to the existing wire and tape?
3. What are the basic removal instructions? The connector has a six sided metal ring around it. Just use a wrench?
4. I assume oil will be coming out, how much? Not a big deal, just want to know if I need to drain the entire 4.5 qts or not.
Thank you in advance for your help. As always super grateful for this forum and everyone's help. Aloha ke akua
Red Circle: Wire to harness<br/>Red Arrow: Oil Pressure Sender Connector
Last edited by surf4life; 05-30-2016 at 05:03 PM.
Reason: additional information
You can just re-wire it. I have not had to work on one of those connectors so not sure how to get it apart and wire it back in. I would not use a barrel connector when reconnecting wires. I would get a solder gun, electrical tape and heat shrink. Youtube videos can show how to solder and is a much better fix.
On the sensor, I use a socket or I think a wrench will fit on it to remove it. When loosening that sensor. Make sure it is turning and not twisting the sensor off of the shaft. I had a shaft to break off inside the block one time and it was a real pain to get out. I eventually had to weld a nut to the shaft and get it out that way.
If I recall right, you will not lose any oil with the motor turned off but I could be wrong on that. I have had sensors in the past to leak on a Ford and there is a lot of pressure behind that sensor when running.
You can just re-wire it. I have not had to work on one of those connectors so not sure how to get it apart and wire it back in. I would not use a barrel connector when reconnecting wires. I would get a solder gun, electrical tape and heat shrink. Youtube videos can show how to solder and is a much better fix.
On the sensor, I use a socket or I think a wrench will fit on it to remove it. When loosening that sensor. Make sure it is turning and not twisting the sensor off of the shaft. I had a shaft to break off inside the block one time and it was a real pain to get out. I eventually had to weld a nut to the shaft and get it out that way.
If I recall right, you will not lose any oil with the motor turned off but I could be wrong on that. I have had sensors in the past to leak on a Ford and there is a lot of pressure behind that sensor when running.
I have a BSEE so the soldering is not an issue. Just not used to soldering connections with these environmental considerations. To elaborate, my main concern is how to seat the conductor in the connector itself to maintain a good connection. I have experience with all types of simple molex connectors and they usually have a metal clip that seats in the connector and has to be soldered to the wire lead. I will stop by the Toyota service parts department tomorrow and see what a replacement sensor (with connector) will cost. Seems to be the easiest route. If it is not super expensive I'll do that and update tomorrow with pricing/pics/details. Thank you for your help and response!!!
Now would be a real good time to install a oil pressure gauge .
Either a mechanical one or a electric one .
I have Mechanical ones in all my Toyota`s
rather then spend time fixing a sending unit for a light
This sounds like a great idea. Can you provide me with some additional information so I can research this project? Is a mechanical guage same fit/form as the existing pressure switch/sender? I know the SR5's have dual sensor/switch for both the idiot light and guage. Thank you!
Something like this? Note: think is is for an older 22R engine block
Since most Gauges come to set up with Pipe thread fittings I have several Metric adapter kits laying around .
So I always have a fitting that screws in the Block
Just a simple Matter of removing the sending unit
Then plumbing the line into where you decide to mount the gauge .
Most Mechanical Gauges come with 1/8" Nylon Tubing .
I used 1/8" copper covered with rubber vacuum hose through the engine bay then the nylon line in the cab
Radical. Yes it seems that copper is the way to go in the engine compartment. I am going to start a new thread soon once the mechanical gauges arrive. Going to do a tach as well. Thank you again for suggesting mechanical gauges and I'll PM you when I start the new thread. Aloha ke akua!
So I went down to the Toyota Dealer Parts Department and voila they had a replacement terminal plug with a wire. I shelled out the 10 bucks for the part. The tech helped me remove the old connector and pull out the connector plug. Used a butt connector (crimped) to reconnect the new wire to the old. Electrical tape and it's good to go again. The good news is the new wire buys me around 6" so when I install the mechanical gauge I can put the old stock sender into the plugged port by the engine mount. Stoked! I'm attaching a picture of the part and the invoice so if anyone comes across this issue again you know what to do. The Toyota P/N is:
82998-12440
Thank you to the guys who responded and helped. I'm looking forward to adding a mechanical gauge and tach soon and will start another thread. Mahalos!!!
sorry to kick this thread back to the top, but I'm doing this same thing and have a question
Does p/n 82998-12440 include the plastic plug? Do you know the p/n for that? And how does wire 82998-12440 interface with the plug? Do you just insert it through the back? It doesn't seem like the plug can be opened up, but I'm not sure. Thanks
For full clarification, I've got what I think is the exact same setup as OP (1993 DLX 22RE pickup, idiot light sender is fine but the plug is broken)
sorry to kick this thread back to the top, but I'm doing this same thing and have a question
Does p/n 82998-12440 include the plastic plug? Do you know the p/n for that? And how does wire 82998-12440 interface with the plug? Do you just insert it through the back? It doesn't seem like the plug can be opened up, but I'm not sure. Thanks
For full clarification, I've got what I think is the exact same setup as OP (1993 DLX 22RE pickup, idiot light sender is fine but the plug is broken)
Q&A
nope, nope, press in from the rear, yep
It is as you see above, a metal spade and length of wire without a housing. Parts counter guy should be able to find the housing for you, if they can't find one or its not available from them what you are looking for is an "ampseal" connector there are made by TE Tyco electronic and Google should turn up a source or two or TE will sell directly off one of their websites.
There are small clips inside the housing that retained the wire end, there are sources for special tools online but I didn't save the website. You can generally use a stiff safety pin or flat copper hair pin to release them.
Personally I would hit the nearest upull it style salvage yard, costs about 5$ you get both connectors and don't have to fiddle with soldering or hunting thru parts databases.
sorry to kick this thread back to the top, but I'm doing this same thing and have a question
Does p/n 82998-12440 include the plastic plug? Do you know the p/n for that? And how does wire 82998-12440 interface with the plug? Do you just insert it through the back? It doesn't seem like the plug can be opened up, but I'm not sure. Thanks
For full clarification, I've got what I think is the exact same setup as OP (1993 DLX 22RE pickup, idiot light sender is fine but the plug is broken)
I am not certain but doubt the connector housing comes with the wire. When I recently tried to buy the connector housing for the fuel injectors, the dealer was not able to look up the part number. If you do the leg work and find a part number, they can order it.
As you probably know, these old connectors get pretty brittle with age, so they break pretty easily. To remove the wire from the connector you typically insert a thin flat tool to release the locking tab, then pull the wire out the back of the connector. From my experience, this is easier said than done since the rubber wire seal is also brittle and will not pull out easily. You can make a tool using a hair pin, or purchase one. . http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-t...ExtractionTool
This document has lots of diagrams and at the end is a catalog of connector housings with the part numbers. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/85...?page=9#manual. If you can find a number on the current housing, preface with 90980 to make the full part number (and compare to the picture)
Pretty easy to make up your own wire too if you have the crimp tool and terminals. CycleTerminal also has some cutaway pictures on removing terminals . http://www.cycleterminal.com/termina...procedure.html I purchased several housings, terminals and the crimping tool from cycleterminal. Probably overkill for your job, but I had several connectors to replace. His prices are very competitive with fast and reasonable shipping costs.
Let's see if it sticks this time, all I could remember was that is related to motorcycles.
Thanks Dallas!
I think he makes wire harnesses for Honda's and other motorcycles from Japan which also source connectors from Nippon Denso so they are identical to the Toyota connectors.
It is as you see above, a metal spade and length of wire without a housing. Parts counter guy should be able to find the housing for you, if they can't find one or its not available from them what you are looking for is an "ampseal" connector there are made by TE Tyco electronic and Google should turn up a source or two or TE will sell directly off one of their websites.
There are small clips inside the housing that retained the wire end, there are sources for special tools online but I didn't save the website. You can generally use a stiff safety pin or flat copper hair pin to release them.
Personally I would hit the nearest upull it style salvage yard, costs about 5$ you get both connectors and don't have to fiddle with soldering or hunting thru parts databases.
Thanks. You wouldn't believe how few Yotas there are here in Florida. I drove to South Carolina to get mine. Having a hard time finding one in a u-pull
I found my part #! 90980-11363. When I searched it on eBay I found one with a length of wire for $8. Sold!
I need to re wire the oil pressure sender
broke off at the harness underneath the Plenum can’t find it is there anyway I could re-wire it to The fuse box or does the wire go to the ECM?
I need to re wire the oil pressure sender
broke off at the harness underneath the Plenum can’t find it is there anyway I could re-wire it to The fuse box or does the wire go to the ECM?
The oil pressure sender wire does not go to the fuse box or the ECM.
The oil pressure sender varies the ground side of the gauge circuit, so that wire goes to the gauge itself. The gauge gets its power from the ignition switch.
I would first try and find the wire before running a new wire.
If you do need to run a new wire, it needs to go to the gauge cluster. I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me so I do not know which terminal on the gauge cluster goes to the oil pressure sender.
05-30-2016, 04:40 PM
