Oh please not the head...
 

To explain what's going on, here we go...

Changed 87 22RE 4runner to a carbed 86 22R. Runs as well as can be expected, but overheating.

The problem: Idles fine, but under load (plain driving, not even 45mph) OR just higher RPM's, it overheats. I can sit in neutral and rev it to 2500-3000 and the temp will climb. Everything I have done has made it last longer each time, or keeps it from overheating AS MUCH, but still running to the very top white line except at idle.

The "fixes": flushed cooling system, installed new 180 degree thermostat, new pop-valve radiator cap, 50/50 antifreeze, washed entire radiator while out of vehicle, switched radiators with a spare (no change), set idle speed nearer 800 (while setting timing, hooked vacuum advance back up and it jumped to 1300), set timing at 0*, readjusted idle speed, prayed, found that the thermostat housing hose connector was from the wrong donor engine and corrected along with fresh gasket, prayed more, did compression test and found #1 180, #2 120, #3 180, #4 180, re-checked #2 two more times, still 120.

Other info...Truck sat for 3 years with no fuel, Filled varnishy smelling empty tank with 93 octane, running 20W50 oil, using the manual fuel pump pumping through the original electric fuel pump in the tank which is still there, but the electrical connector is disconnected so it won't pump. I'm not finding any oil in the coolant, and no milkshake in the oil. Oil cap smells like regularly used oil and a bit of that varnishy gas, but only a vague whiff, but sticking my nose in the oil fill hole only smells like oil... Radiator doesn't smell like exhaust, no smoke of any color or kind out of tailpipe. 1 inch hole in exhaust right under where the actual pipe starts. Truck has a lift, so deeper oilpan and lengthened exhaust. 4x4 with manual tranny.

I know it's long and detailed, but I like to be thorough...

...please help oh ye YotaGods...

Attachment 84055

try adding some oil to the #2 cyl through the spark plug hole and redo the compression, if it is higher then it's the ring if it stays the same then it could be the valve or headgasket.

Do you have the heat turned on so the heater core will burp when you're doing this?

Pull the valve cover and inspect the cam lobes. There is obviously something wrong with #2. With the overheating issue there could be an exhaust lobe on the cam that has gone missing. I have lost an exhaust lobe before and it cracked the piston running opposite on the compression stroke. If it gets bad enough it will push oil out the dipstick.

just a thought.

Pulled the head anyways...head gasket looks good. heads should be tested by the end of today so I will know their condition. Gonna check everything very well before I put it all back together. Will update...

update?

Oh yeah...
 

Both heads were tested and they were fine. Chose the prettier one and installed it. Still overheating. Before I put the head on, I removed the drain plug and ran a wire hanger through several water channels and got about a cup of gunk out. Probably the "head gasket repair" that clogged up the heater core in the first place. Water ran smooth then. Still overheating... Been busy with other things so I took a break from it. Husband says try putting the other head on it. I don't think it will make a difference but knowing my luck, it would work.