briefcase

Hey everyone, I just bought myself 91 2WD pickup with a 22r-e.

I'm incredibly inexperienced as a mechanic and I'm seeking suggestions for systems to investigate/clean/replace to have a truck that runs as well as I can get it without too much money being thrown at it. The one thing I have right now is time, and a lot of it. I have a ton of questions in regards to my new truck and I'm hoping that I might be able to find some answers here.

I've been researching for the last week or so and I think I've narrowed things down at least a little on my own, and with the help of the previous owner.

Overall the truck seems to run mostly fine but with a few issues that the previous owner had noticed:

1. The exhaust appears to be a bit blue and you can smell the oil in it a little bit. Is this likely the valve seals? That seems to be a pretty common issue but like I said ,I'm very inexperienced and wouldn't even know where to start with those.

2. The previous owner has said that the truck's rpm is running a bit high and that it idles high. While I don't know if that's true, I have nothing to compare it too and the truck doesn't have a tachometer in it. I'm wondering what might be the best way to check this. Should I look for an aftermarket tach and a timing light to make sure that everything is set properly?

3. The previous owner mentioned poorer gas mileage. They thought it might be the TPS and/or the o2 sensor.
I've shorted the diagnostic and I'm getting both codes 41 and 43.
I've been looking into how to solve code 41, and it seems that it's the TPS. I'm not sure when to bite the bullet and buy a new one though, as the throttle body itself looked pretty dirty when I checked it this morning, and so I'm unsure whether or not the throttle body being dirty could throw that code.
I've done some preliminary ohm measurements but they seem to be a bit out of wack compared to the factory recommended ones.When I jump the diagnostic the idle speed does go slower/quieter as I've seen online. This leads me to believe that the trucks computer is properly seeing the TPS, but that the readings are incorrect?
I'm also very curious best practices for cleaning a throttle body, and at what point (if I'm taking the time to somewhat thoroughly clean the engine) should I be using things like sea foam.

Those are all the main issues that I'm trying to tackle now. If you've got any suggestions for even the most basic maintenance/things to check I'm all ears. Like I said I'm a completely new mechanic in this sense.

Thanks so much.

akwheeler

Blowing the blues could either be rings or valve stem seals. Some clues are:
blue smoke on first start up/valve stem seals are leaking and oil keeps draining down into the cylinders when the truck is shut off for a while
blue smoke on acceleration/likely from bad oil rings'

You could do a compression test and see what you get, repeat the test with about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and see if the value increases significantly. But if you get really low numbers you may just as well resign yourself to pulling the head and having it checked out at a machine shop and decide then if you are rebuilding the motor. If the valves leak (not the valve stem seals) your compression will be low too. If the valves don't leak you need to look into a full rebuild.

How many miles are on this? Do you have an oil pressure gauge? What does it read?

All of the other issues may be sorted out in the process of rebuilding (clean the crap out of the throttle body when it is off of the engine).
Don't adjust your idle with the screw on the throttle body, the computer handles idle speed. if someone has messed with it in the past you need to go through the field service manual (FSM) and put it back. if the crud in the throttle body is stopping the butterfly from returning all the way to the stop you need to clean it out! this could also cause the TPS code, but you need to check the FSM for setting the TPS also before you replace it.

briefcase

Miles are about 230k, I do not have an oil pressure gauge. Basically assume I don't have any car/truck specific tools. I've got a socket wrench set, pliers, all the home maintenance things, but for pretty much anything relating to cars or trucks I've simply never needed them until now.

I'm not really sure how to do a compression test. I certainly don't have the tools for that (I'd guess). Is it extensively hard to do?

A full rebuild would be beyond my abilities. I wouldn't even really know where to start.

The carbon buildup in the throttle body isn't stopping the butterfly at all, but it certainly looks pretty gnarly from the butterfly inwards into the engine.

akwheeler

If you are determined to work on it yourself you will need to get some tools or rent some of the specialty stuff. Harbor Freight tools is a good place to get cheap tools to get you started.
The #1 tool you should buy and learn how to use is a multi-meter (DVM or MM or VM) to test voltage, continuity and resistance. Anything that isn't totally mechanical will require testing wires/connections/components to figure out what is wrong.
For a beginner the issues you mentioned are definitely on the tough side, valve stem seals will require a lot of disassembly (removing the cam shaft) and if the rings are bad you may as well remove the engine from the truck and either replace it or take it to a machine shop and have them rebuild it.
Also please add some information to your signature line listing your truck's vital statistics, year/model/engine/trans/2wd etc.
I forgot to mention, a compression test requires a tester (you may be able to borrow or rent one from a parts store) you remove the spark plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse, insert the tester and crank the engine over with the starter, repeat for each cylinder

briefcase

I'll start perusing around for tools then I guess! I'm located in Canada, so harborfreight might be a bit on the harder side of things.

I do have a multimeter at least, which has already been very helpful in measuring the TPS.

Assuming that I can clean the throttle body well, adjust/get a working TPS to throw ohms within factory ranges, and say, clean the engine out with some seafoam, Would the leaking seals be "okay" to drive with for the summer? As long as I keep feeding the truck what ever amount of liquids it needs?

akwheeler

Keep track of how much oil you are using (gallons per mile or a quart or two a month makes a difference). It will foul spark plugs and O2 sensors and plug your catalytic converter over time, so your call. I wouldn't waste a lot of time on drivability issues until you stop it from blowing the blues though, since that may be what started it all.

L5wolvesf

For a first set/bunch of hand tools used will be fine - swap meets, garage sales, Craigslist, etc.
Some tools, like compression tester can be borrowed from parts stores usually for free.

Get the compression and/or leak down tests done - that will give some direction to go in.

RAD4Runner

Yeah, sounds like a case of bad connections.

Check fuses and connections below:
When you have your multi-meter handy make voltage checks as someone moves wiring harness around.




ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BLOCK THIS IS FOR A 1986.
PLEASE SHARE PHOTO OF YOURS IF DIFFERENT.

DO NOT force the 80-amp fusible link out. It is secured with a screw underneath. See Terrys87's thread for that.