Limited Slip or Rear/Front Lockers?
 

Hi I just had a question for my 92 Yota...Should I get a Limited Slip Differential or Lock my Differential..I was thinking Locking my Rear Differential because Ive heard Limited Slip is good but It doesnt supply the torque in order to move anywhere..

And I was curious should I lock my Front or Rear First because I dnt think I have enough money to do both right away..

LSDs suck. Useless offroad when you lift a tire.
Lock the rear end first.


:dj:

aussie locker in the rear

I wouldnt lock the front because those axle housings are made of aluminum, so it could stress it too much. I would etheir lock or posi the rear. It depends on what you are using the truck for. Posi tracs are fine for the mud and everyday driving. Usually, you will have to spin 1 rear tire for just about a second or 2 and then you will hear a whine and the other one will kick in. Or that is my experience with them. If you are rock crawling or you use the truck purely for off road then I would definetely go with a locker.

theres nothing wrong with locking the front... but start with the rear first. I'm locking both the front and rear with aussies.

"Locking" the front makes steering hard... And adds stress to the front jounts.

Look, joints get weaker the more you turn them. So picture your truck in a turn...

Both front wheels want to cover the same distance when they make the turn but they can't. They could, but you took the open diff out.

Now, gas it and cut the wheels... You'll either load the front joints on the harder stuff, or the truck will go straight even if the wheels are turned in the soft stuff...


Now of course there are a billion variations on what can happen, to whom and what the conditions were... But above will most likely be the case.

That's why 9 outta 10 times you use a limited slip or selectable up front.

Oka cool thanks...Yea i will go ahead and Lock my Rear Diff...With a manual hub conversion do u get better gas mileage? since the hubs would be unlocked?

Most ppl do, but that's not the only reason why most ppl do it.

Get a pin hole in your grease boot and you'll see why.

Manual hub and auto hubs shold get the same MPGs. As auto hubs are suppose to unlock when not in 4wd, but they seem to fail from time to time both when locking and unlocking, and in reverse.

When my rig was IFS I was locked front and rear. No problems with front housing or failed steering components. The J arm took a beating but that was due to torsion bar lift. Got hard to turn steering wheel at times and still does with an Aussie up front.

I drove a rear lockrite for years. Got annoying but I felt it was worth the offroad traction.

I have had the Locrite, ez lock, and Aussie. Think you'll like the Aussie best.

There are no auto hubs on that gen of a 4Runner... Or any Toyota ADD system.

Long story short, it's like a permanently locked hub... (AKA, Drive Flange)

A shaft has a collar on it controlled by a vac box like the QuadraSuck on a Dodge truck.

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/images/dodge_axle.gif

Thanks for the correction.

For locking the rear look into a tacoma e-locker. You can normally find them for not to much at yards and on craigslist. It will be necessary to modify the housing. You will also need the electronics to control the locker. By the time you get done it will cost twice as much as the aussie and will take longer. However not having a clunky mess in your rear differential is priceless.

just the cover is aluminum lol.