sae10w30

How do you know if a flywheel needs to be replaced or machined?

I never did a clutch before and I just removed the transmission but I don't know if the flywheel needs to be machined or replaced.

What do I look for?
(Anyone have the thickness spec?)

Republic77

I am a noob myself, I don't see where you have your truck/engine type listed.
According to my FSM for a 1988 22re, you are supposed to measure runout on the flywheel.
Maximum runout is 0.2mm(0.008in)
also inspect pilot bearing, if it sticks or has "much resistance" replace.
My flywheel is within spec, and I am debating whether to replace it, or do it because "while I am in there"
Others will probably chime in.
Good luck

L5wolvesf

Without info on your Escalade we can't help you. The signature line is a good place for that like many others here do.

Take the FW to a machine shop first to see what they measure it at and if it can be surfaced. They will want to know what vehicle it is too.

Someone here might suggest one near you but - YOUR LOCATION IS ALSO MiA.

akwheeler

Please, as the others have mentioned, create a signature line that tells us your year/make/model.
Also please give us the rest of the story on your thread asking how to remove your tranny.
Did you miss a bolt?
You could have continued on that thread with this question without creating a new one.
As the others have said, a good machine shop will tell you if it can be resurfaced (it needs it judging by the pictures) as long as you don't keep your year/make/model a secret.

Kolton5543

A flywheel should always be machined or replaced when installing a new clutch set. Most clutch warranties won't even be honored if a new flywheel wasn't bought on the same receipt or if there isn't proof of it getting machined. As long as it doesn't have any obvious damage like large cracks or chips in it and the ring gear is in good shape, then it can usually be machined. Typical machining cost usually go around $50 depending on shop. It looks like you have either a 2rz or 3rz truck. Rock auto has new flywheels ranging $45-$81. All of which will be fine for a stock clutch set. Of course shopping locally will likely cost significantly more. The cheapest one on Rock Auto is a brute power for $45. My local Autozone sells the exact same one for $75. If local is where your shopping then that could be your deciding factor.

As for the pilot bearing. Replace it. Don't bother trying to reuse the old one. Its a sure fire way to find yourself doing the job again and possibly ruining the transmission in the process. Your clutch set should have one. I find they usually come using grease sparingly. I like to clean them out real good and repack with a good grease. Also, grease the nose cone where the throw out bearing rides and also grease the splines on the shaft. Many people don't causing the clutch disk to wear into the splines which eventually makes clatter and ruins the transmission input shaft. Use a new throw out bearing too. Again, your clutch set should come with one. Many of the cheaper sets I have had terrible luck with the throw out bearings failing only a few miles in. Almost every one of them. I usually buy a new one separate from National or LUK. They can usually be found online for a good price. It might cost a little extra but its good assurance. I've redone about 8 clutch jobs from using the bearings that come with the cheaper clutch sets. Usually from the cheaper part store sets. Napa branded clutch sets are good. They're just re branded LUK sets. If that's what you have then send it.

And as stated before, list the year make and model of the vehicle your working on. The engine, transmission, drive type, recent relevant changes, and relevant mods are also very good information to include. The more we know about your ride the better we can help you. If you plan on using the forums often, then putting that info in your signature is a good thing to do. Doing so will show that info on all of your post and guarantees something didn't get left out.