Cranks, have spark but no startWhat
11-08-2018, 03:51 PM
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Cranks, have spark but no start
1994 Toyota pickup 4x4 22re motor..I’m getting codes 31 and 21. I jumped fp and b+ and still no start. I have 12v to b+ I’ve also bought a new afm because I screwed the foil wires on inside up. I’ve done a lot of searching on here and found a lot on this subject but I just can’t find the answer. Just a little back story, I bought this truck with a bad motor. Swapped the motor and had a short on the positive cable to starter. Toasted a ground from the alternator harness. No damage that I could see but it did get hot and smoke. I tried to start the truck and it ran 10 seconds and quit. And it would start back up and stop. I then replaced the afm and no fuel pressure. At least to the cold start injector. Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by Thekalebfowler; 11-08-2018 at 04:13 PM.
11-08-2018, 03:59 PM
#2
Let's start by telling us what year Escalade you're working on 
11-09-2018, 05:39 AM
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So I’ve been looking at an fsm online and from what I can tell if I put 12 volts to fp wire and the fp don’t kick on then either fp wire is shorted or maybe fuel pump not grounded assuming the fp is good. It was running with bad motor just fine. When I get home today I’m going to make sure I have power to fuel pump with fp and b+ jumped and key on. also check ground and check fuel pump with ohm meter.
11-10-2018, 12:00 PM
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stupid me left my ohm meter out in the rain. I ended up hooking up a hot wire straight from the battery and pump didn’t come on. I’m going to buy another ohm meter but the ground wire looked good so it’s more than likely the fuel pump. I will confirm this with a multi meter and keep you updated in the event that somebody sees this in the future and wants to know what happened.
11-10-2018, 04:47 PM
#6
Looks does not cut it. Make sure the ground side of fuel pump is connected to ground well. You can either test the fuel pump while it is FULLY-INSTALLED, or un-installed and VERY FAR from the fuel tank. Never test un-installed near the tank.
11-10-2018, 05:40 PM
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Toyota parts are almost always bullet-proof. Most issues are caused by poor connections.
Looks does not cut it. Make sure the ground side of fuel pump is connected to ground well. You can either test the fuel pump while it is FULLY-INSTALLED, or un-installed and VERY FAR from the fuel tank. Never test un-installed near the tank.[/QUOTE]
When I get done hunting in the morning I am going to check it with an ohm meter... also thanks for the warning, I’ve been known to do some stupid things. Wiring is not my strong suit.
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12-11-2018, 12:55 AM
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Update.
After checking everything I ended up replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump burned up because the filter collapsed on itself and could not suck in any fuel. It almost looked like it was solid plastic. As of right now the truck will crank and run for a few seconds with +b &fp jumped. I think my next thing to do is make sure the truck is in time and get it running well with the jumper. I do have full power at the fuel pump with the jump wire. So I think my problem is with the circuit open relay but I will have to do some checking with my multimeter.
After checking everything I ended up replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump burned up because the filter collapsed on itself and could not suck in any fuel. It almost looked like it was solid plastic. As of right now the truck will crank and run for a few seconds with +b &fp jumped. I think my next thing to do is make sure the truck is in time and get it running well with the jumper. I do have full power at the fuel pump with the jump wire. So I think my problem is with the circuit open relay but I will have to do some checking with my multimeter.
12-11-2018, 03:31 AM
#9
Update.
After checking everything I ended up replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump burned up because the filter collapsed on itself and could not suck in any fuel. It almost looked like it was solid plastic. As of right now the truck will crank and run for a few seconds with +b &fp jumped. I think my next thing to do is make sure the truck is in time and get it running well with the jumper. I do have full power at the fuel pump with the jump wire. So I think my problem is with the circuit open relay but I will have to do some checking with my multimeter.
After checking everything I ended up replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump burned up because the filter collapsed on itself and could not suck in any fuel. It almost looked like it was solid plastic. As of right now the truck will crank and run for a few seconds with +b &fp jumped. I think my next thing to do is make sure the truck is in time and get it running well with the jumper. I do have full power at the fuel pump with the jump wire. So I think my problem is with the circuit open relay but I will have to do some checking with my multimeter.
12-11-2018, 03:17 PM
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Got home from work and cranked the truck and it ran a second and died. I got to looking around and realized the clamp on the afm wasn’t tight. Tightened it up and it now cranks and runs even without the jump wire but I still have code 21 and 31 and it idles pretty high. Around 1600 rpm.
12-17-2018, 03:41 AM
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Still have an issue with code 31 & 21. I checked for continuity on vs & vc and that was good from afm to where it goes in firewall. Anybody know what volts I should have at vc & vs @ ecu? I’m running out of ideas.
12-17-2018, 04:54 AM
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I got this info from 4crawler.com I believe. Just in case somebody stumbles across this and tries to find a resolution. I’ve looked at lots of post but they are mostly incomplete so you don’t really see what actually fixed the problem.
“So how exactly does the AFM work? It is basically an input sensor to the ECU (Engine Control Unit). In the schematic diagram below, you can see how the ECU and AFM are connected. Basically the ECU receives the B+ battery voltage(about 14 volts with the engine running) from the Main Relay. It passes this voltage on to the AFM via the VB terminal. The voltage at the VC terminal is used by the ECU as a refererence voltage (it should be around 12 volts) and that voltage is basically the highest voltage that it would see from the air flow part of the sensor. And it is the air flow that is sensed as a voltage on the VS terminal. As you can see in the voltage graph in the lower left corner, the VS voltage runs from around 0 volts up to around 12 volts depending on the air flowing through the AFM.”
“So how exactly does the AFM work? It is basically an input sensor to the ECU (Engine Control Unit). In the schematic diagram below, you can see how the ECU and AFM are connected. Basically the ECU receives the B+ battery voltage(about 14 volts with the engine running) from the Main Relay. It passes this voltage on to the AFM via the VB terminal. The voltage at the VC terminal is used by the ECU as a refererence voltage (it should be around 12 volts) and that voltage is basically the highest voltage that it would see from the air flow part of the sensor. And it is the air flow that is sensed as a voltage on the VS terminal. As you can see in the voltage graph in the lower left corner, the VS voltage runs from around 0 volts up to around 12 volts depending on the air flowing through the AFM.”
12-17-2018, 04:57 AM
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I’ve got to change the water pump tomorrow or Wednesday so once that problem
is fixed I’ll check the voltage @ afm and ecu and see where my issue is. I’ll update soon.
is fixed I’ll check the voltage @ afm and ecu and see where my issue is. I’ll update soon.
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