94' Toyota 4x4 PU 3.0L idle issues! Newbie!
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94' Toyota 4x4 PU 3.0L idle issues! Newbie!
Hello Yotatechs!
First off I would like to say thanks in advance to anyone that replies and helps. Im new to Yotatech.com forum. I am currently registered in other forums so not so new. (i.e. I own an 02' BMW M3 so Im involved in they're forums)
So here goes my story and my issues. Just bought a 1994 Toyota Pickup 4x4 V6 3.0L MT about 3 months ago off of some one on Craigslist. When I went to go see the truck and test drive it, everything checked out fine except for a slight ticking sound on the top end of the valve covers. I went ahead and pulled the trigger either way. I drove off in the truck and went to eat (restaurant) 2 hrs later i go back to try and turn on the truck and its giving me trouble. I gave a couple of gas pumps on the pedal and turns on. My idle was almost to the ZERO and turns off. I try it again and does the same thing. I then throw it in 1st gear (while Im giving it gas so it doesn't die on me) So i drive off about 3 miles, I then noticed that the idle went up and is running fine after a couple of lights. Stop by to pump gas and I turned it on and its fine. 25 minutes later i get home and turn it off. I let it sit for about 3 hrs and go back and turn it on. Idle is low again and dies. (engine temperature wasn't completely to cold)
Next day i wake up early morning and give it a go again. Truck turns on fine, Idle is high then regulates. I then let it sit and go back 30 minutes later and it does the same and dies. So I go ahead and do a master tune up to see if that can fix my issue. but it doesn't.
I noticed i had a little hose from the Charcoal canister Purge side not connected and sucking air. I noticed the engine check light wouldn't come on when I turned on the switch, so I take the instrument cluster off and sure enough the light bulb was missing. I replaced the bulb and the freaking light turns on.
Almost 2 months later and its still giving me the same problem over n over again.
I have a Check engine code 71 (EGR)
There are a sensor in the back by the firewall that are not connected (will get pictures ASAP to show)
The valve where the purge hose goes too is broken.
Not sure if im answering my own question but what can my bad idle be?
any help would be appreciated. thanks!
First off I would like to say thanks in advance to anyone that replies and helps. Im new to Yotatech.com forum. I am currently registered in other forums so not so new. (i.e. I own an 02' BMW M3 so Im involved in they're forums)
So here goes my story and my issues. Just bought a 1994 Toyota Pickup 4x4 V6 3.0L MT about 3 months ago off of some one on Craigslist. When I went to go see the truck and test drive it, everything checked out fine except for a slight ticking sound on the top end of the valve covers. I went ahead and pulled the trigger either way. I drove off in the truck and went to eat (restaurant) 2 hrs later i go back to try and turn on the truck and its giving me trouble. I gave a couple of gas pumps on the pedal and turns on. My idle was almost to the ZERO and turns off. I try it again and does the same thing. I then throw it in 1st gear (while Im giving it gas so it doesn't die on me) So i drive off about 3 miles, I then noticed that the idle went up and is running fine after a couple of lights. Stop by to pump gas and I turned it on and its fine. 25 minutes later i get home and turn it off. I let it sit for about 3 hrs and go back and turn it on. Idle is low again and dies. (engine temperature wasn't completely to cold)
Next day i wake up early morning and give it a go again. Truck turns on fine, Idle is high then regulates. I then let it sit and go back 30 minutes later and it does the same and dies. So I go ahead and do a master tune up to see if that can fix my issue. but it doesn't.
I noticed i had a little hose from the Charcoal canister Purge side not connected and sucking air. I noticed the engine check light wouldn't come on when I turned on the switch, so I take the instrument cluster off and sure enough the light bulb was missing. I replaced the bulb and the freaking light turns on.
Almost 2 months later and its still giving me the same problem over n over again.
I have a Check engine code 71 (EGR)
There are a sensor in the back by the firewall that are not connected (will get pictures ASAP to show)
The valve where the purge hose goes too is broken.
Not sure if im answering my own question but what can my bad idle be?
any help would be appreciated. thanks!
#2
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not my engine nor my picture. but here is where i have a disconnected sensor and also a EGR hose (TVV/BVSV is broken off)
Can someone list them from left to right?
The sensors with the green and blue arrows are not connected on my PU.
Can someone list them from left to right?
The sensors with the green and blue arrows are not connected on my PU.
#3
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Hey bro, first of all welcome to yotatech. As far as ticking noises go that is normal. Mine is rebuilt and it still ticks. it's just the injectors. as far as hoses go, i recomend you get those hoses situated with, having a few misplaced hoses in our 3VZE motors can cause a check engine light to come up. Who knows that might be your only problem. But like i said make sure you get all those hoses routed to the correct places.and do a vacuum pump test as well. Sometimes these lines can be clogged like one of mine was. If you search through my thread you will see i posted a bunch of diagrams on where vacuum lines go. I hope you get it figured out man. I know how much of a pain in the arse it can be dealing with the spaghetti soup of hoses on the passenger side.
#4
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BTW my BVSV was also broken. its not too hard to replace. its just alot of crap to remove just to get to it such as all the hoses, clips, egr, Intake plenumn. but like i said man its better to get it all together working the way it should. i also posted a link on how to do this job and pix of when i did my own.
I'll see if i can find the link to what page its on in my thread because i do have a lot of pages.
that guy you bought it off of though.... man what a wanker. people bust out with crap like that all the time.
I'll see if i can find the link to what page its on in my thread because i do have a lot of pages.
that guy you bought it off of though.... man what a wanker. people bust out with crap like that all the time.
#5
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Here ya go i found the diagrams i posted. I hoppe this helps you out some.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...6/index10.html
read through my thread on pgs 7-10 or so
here is the link to how to remove the plenumn
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...cement-233708/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...6/index10.html
read through my thread on pgs 7-10 or so
here is the link to how to remove the plenumn
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...cement-233708/
#7
Registered User
No problem man. Hope it all works out for you. Like I said that's an easy fix. Its just a pain working with all the stuff you gotta take apart. Hope u get that problem fixed. Good luck!
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#8
You can bypass the BVSV and go straight from the throttlebody to the vacuum canister.
Ive ran that way for years and passed CA smog with no problems, And no advers operational affects.
The BVSV opens once the engine is slightly warmed anyways which is the same.
Ive ran that way for years and passed CA smog with no problems, And no advers operational affects.
The BVSV opens once the engine is slightly warmed anyways which is the same.
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I had a similar problem on my 22r. The EGR was stuck open. Carbon builds up from the exhaust and can seize up the valve. Blowing a head gasket probably helped it get stuck as well.
It seems like its getting to much air
On my recent 3vze after rebuild I accidently placed the wrong vacuum hose on the EGR so it was opening and closing it at random times.
It seems like its getting to much air
On my recent 3vze after rebuild I accidently placed the wrong vacuum hose on the EGR so it was opening and closing it at random times.
#12
Idle fix
Don't know if you or anyone has found a cure for the high idle on the 3vze but anyone with the problem should do one thing first. Check the o-ring on the idle speed screw on the throttle body. Chances are if yours is like mine, the o-ring was hard as a rock and shattered when I removed it. Replace it and check your idle. Air gets sucked in past the screw that is unregulated. Pass this on to any other thread with the same issue.
Last edited by pclan28; 08-06-2015 at 04:04 PM.
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