randu2020

I just recently found this 87 22rte with only 150 k on the odometer and hardly any mechanics marks on the undercarriage or anywhere around the motor. It was said by a neighbor this truck was a one owner and he knew the guy when he bought in 87. It was left broke down on a property my buddy bought. I did some demo for the truck as payment. Ten years behind on reg so it has no paper trail. I get to start fresh since I have the hook up with a lien company when I am rdy for the title.

I towed the truck home on a flatbed, tried to crank, no start no power to fuel pump were the first two things I noticed. Cleaned starter solenoid, that works now. Power to efi relay is good, no bad grounds etc. Power to open circuit relay is good and it ohms tested fine. Doesn't fully eliminate it as a problem so I jumped the check connector FP and b+ to manually power the fuel pump to get it started.

No start, I check spark now. I have spark from the coil itself, and from every plug out of the distributor. Still not getting fuel I assume. So I check the pulse on my injectors and they are weak. (Test light ground to pos battery and one side of the injector) They only light the test light halfway. And when I go to test the injector plug with just key on, both sides of the plug have power, does that mean anything weird?

Then another weird thing happened, I tested my cold start injector, no power at all with key on. but if i go test light ground to pos battery then both sides of the cold start injector plug light up, doesn't that mean a bad ground or something with the cold start injector? Since then Despite all of the above I'm not sure what else to do besides start replacing parts, even though it seems to be something petty. Is there any way to troubleshoot the ecu to determine if it is why I have a weak pulse or?????

Please shed some light on this for me. Just started snowing here at 3200 feet in Magalia, Ca and i need this thing running, my two wheel civic wont do it lol.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

It was parked for a reason..10 years have added a bunch of other time related issues to what ever caused it to be parked in the first place.
I wouldn't count on it being a quick fix.

randu2020

I have been working on cars for a long time but auto electrical gets me, I can turn wrenches do rebuilds etc, but electric, arghh im an idiot. This thing is in good shape and u cant tell it sat for that long. Motor, wires, all the rubber bushings, motor mounts, i mean everything was fine. I could be wrong about the time aspect of it but this thing is sweet, nothing aftermarket installed, this guy took care of the motor. No water in oil, or valve cover, clean oil, filter, air filter, plugs wires, I mean its trippy how good this looks under the hood to a mechanic. Im gonna take some pics today so u can understand. Besides that, what do u think of the symptoms I mentioned earlier

INFINITY

injectors are controlled by the computer, by the computer completing the ground circuit for the individual injectors on the 22re.
do a lot of reading....a lot. the cor does not keep a constant power to the fuel pump. check filters (intank sock and inline main filter) injectors for gummed up ends.
lots of things could be wrong but hopefully it is only one, good luck finding it. also check out the knock sensor. and check for mil codes

randu2020

My only code was an 11. Which refers to ecu ignition etc, Just found out through a multimeter that im losing .2 volts from battery to injectors. I have 12.5 at battery and 12.3 at injectors. Still havent found why my cold start injector is testing the way it is. Only shows power when i reverse the test light ground to pos battery side. Other than that this thing wants to start. I have pulse at each injector, they ohms test all really close and within spec and they all equally miss .2 volts. Would this cause the injectors not to squirt at all? Sems such a small amount of voltage.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

At no time did you mention draining out the 10 year old gas was that a over sight??

Is there any gas in the tank??

Have you checked the fuel pressure ??

Thought to change the fuel filter ??

New Spark plugs??

Checked for Rodent damage ??

Does the rotor move while cranking the engine??

Find the reason it got parked 10 years ago and go from there.

INFINITY

if he has spark then he has working dist/coil/tchain/coil/ignitor.
the cold start time switch controls the cold start injector not the ecu. it is the thermoswitch next to the ecu ect sensor.
the .2 v loss is nothing to worry about.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Been sitting for 10 years, I would start soaking the pistons with Marvel Mystery Oil before even trying to crank it. Most likely they rings rusted to the wall or rings stuck to the piston. I have seen that in a couple of motors that sat. But since you already started cranking it, what is done is done.

You will need to start with each system and start going thru one at a time. It wont be quick fix and wont be reliable without alot of work.

randu2020

I forgot, yes i drained old gas and bled old gas out til fresh came into rail at the very beginning. I just learned some more about my meter and have found a few breaks in continuity from igniton coil to harness. Fixed that. Also found a few wires someone rigged and hid very well, so i also repaired those. No rat poop, chewed wires or any of that suprisingly. Just some hands who didnt care what it looked like in the end, be back with more, still under the hood.

And the time frame may be off, this thing is so clean under the hood hard to imagine how long it sat.

snobdds

Clean all your grounds really well. Also hook up your meter to check for no resistance between your battery and ground. Touch the positive lead to the positive terminal on the battery and touch various areas of your block and intake. Make sure you show 0 or close to it throughout your engine.

With these trucks, if your not properly grounded, you will be chasing a lot of weird problems.

randu2020

So I finally got everything within .1 volt of the bat on the injectors. I went ahead and took off the plenum, fuel rail and injectors, all look great, screens inside of injectors are good, fuel rail clean and flowing fine. Then when i took off the fuel pressure regulator on the rail, I found that that behind the plastic cap, there was a loose screw. The screw that screws inside the center of ur regulator. it was completely out. Would this be my problem seeing as I have narrowed it down and worked out each issue one at a time? This isnt a vacuum operated regulator so I'm unsure of what that screw does. I will try to attach a pic but my tablet is my only camera right now. The pic is below, but i found out its the pulsation damper, that screw in the pic was all the way out.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked power at the fuel pump? I'm with Wyo on this one, I'm thinking possibly a seized fuel pump. Can you hear it run briefly when you first crank?

randu2020

Ty for looking, but yeah i got the pump working manually, the issue wasnt fuel pressure or spark, it was no fuel coming from the injector despite pressure and ohms testing. Pulse was weak but I had a pulse from the ecu. Read up to see what
This is the regulator on the end of ur fuel rail under the plenum, that screw as gone and just floating around in the plastic cap

snobdds

The fuel regulator is vacuum regulated, and it is located under the EGR. What your looking at is the fuel pulsation damper.

randu2020

would it cause issues if that screw was completely out? That is how i found out when i took the cap off. ,

Just did some more searching and mudhippy answered this for another guy.

(It's not uncommon for the screw to fall out, and be left sitting in the plastic cover. This has ABSOLUTELY no effect on the functionality of the damper. If that's the case, all you need to do is screw it back in untill it bottoms out. Or don't. Like I said, it's only purpose is so that it's easier to check for fuel pressure when it's there. Mudhippy)

randu2020

So going back to a weird problem, should the cold start injector test the way I mentioned, it still should have power from the bat with key on just like any of the 4 other injectors right? Like I said I have to put the test light ground to pos battery to get light from the cold start injector harness, and then when i do both sides light up, but with reg injectors i can do a normal test and have power from battery, I checked the loom throughout the engine bay, anything else you can suggest for this situation?

osv

the fuel injection wiring inside the loom on a lot of these trucks is altered... the schematic shows two injector signal lines, one wire to each pair of injectors, but once you get the loom apart, you'll see that all injectors are wired to batch-fire all at once.

the point where the wiring was spliced gets corroded, and the wires break... typically they will pass a continuity check, all it takes to make that work is maybe one strand of wire not broken, but it'll take more than a strand to fire the injector reliably, because of the amount of current involved.

the only way to tell if it's corroded is to cut the engine harness open, right at the area where it makes that sharp turn at the manifold... this is a big job, you need to know how to solder, use quality shrink wrap, extra wire to replace corroded wire, self-fusing tape, etc.

i wouldn't attempt it until you are absolutely sure that you've done everything else.

how did you confirm that you have fuel pressure? not just a dribble of gas, but pressure? as in, run the fuel pump, then crack the fuel line at the cold start injector, to see fuel squirt out under pressure.

have you tried squirting starting fluid into the plenum, just to see if it'll fire on that? yank a vacuum line, squirt the fluid in there with the plastic pipe that comes with the can.

randu2020

I heard that rte injectors fire different than reg re motors. Besides that I am at a standstill til I get parts now. The injectors test fine but I am going to bench test like the fsm shows under fuel pressure. Until then I have to wait on some cash. I took the valve cover off while I was cleaning and this thing looks beautiful. Hardly any wear on the lobes, and everything through the cylinders oking up from the oil pan look awesome. I found a diamond in the rough i do believe. I just took the camper off today doing some cleaning I will post some pics tom sometime.

randu2020

Update,

I fixed a few grounds,checked every inch of continituity between loom and ecu. Also found my oil pressure wire off under the cap even though I fixed it once alrdy. Had to pinch it down and reattach.

Also changed the fuel filter, cleaned my injectors with acetone and air pressure. Waiting on my injector seal kit which will be here Thursday. But other than that everything you guys have said and added have helped me tremendously. It led me to problems I would not see otherwise.

I have one yellow white with black rings on it from under the plenum I can't find a spot for. Looks like it was connected at some point but the end is clean? I'll try to take a pic today to see if this wire today.

randu2020

I've fixed every bad ground, inside my loom by intake was fine all the way through to the connectors. I have spark, fuel pressure, and air, but injectors aren't opening. Ordered an ecu and that should fix it.

Injectors open cause I manually cleaned them with acetone and a double a battery. Works fine, open fine.