1992 Pickup 4x4 22RE overheating questions
#1
1992 Pickup 4x4 22RE overheating questions
Hi I'm a newbie and need help!
I have a 1992 Toyota pickup 4x4 with a 22RE motor. I bought this truck new in 1991. Two years ago I replaced the engine with new long block not remanufactured engine, also installed a new factory water pump, belts, hoses, and a new aftermarket radiator.
The last 2 weeks it had been running a little hotter than normal. I checked the anti-freeze and level, replaced the thermostat with factory new, and the radiator cap. During this 2 week period that I had lost coolant in the catch tank and had to refill 3 times. I did not see any fluid on the drive way nor do I see or smell any at the exhaust. I browed a combustible fuel mixture tester and tested the fumes at the radiator. The test showed I had combustible fuel fumes mixed in with the coolant. When the original engine blew a head gasket at 272,000 miles I smelled anti-freeze everywhere and could see a lot of condensation and the tail pipe. This time I’m not seeing it or smelling it! Also the engine is surging and idling rough for first 5-8 minutes after initial start then it settles out and idles fine. I did replace the spark plugs last week, they were in there for 2 years from the new engine swap and none of the 4 looked like they were not steamed cleaned. I replaced the rotor button and distributor cap. I plan on doing a compression check this week.
So with combustible gas fumes in my radiator my thoughts are the following;
1)Blown head gasket?
2)Cracked / wrapped head?
3)Intake manifold gasket?
4)Cracked intake manifold?
5)Idle air control valve? (Not sure if the 2 lines that tie into this valve could leak coolant into the throttle body) any thoughts on this?
Thanks for any thoughts or insight
JT
I have a 1992 Toyota pickup 4x4 with a 22RE motor. I bought this truck new in 1991. Two years ago I replaced the engine with new long block not remanufactured engine, also installed a new factory water pump, belts, hoses, and a new aftermarket radiator.
The last 2 weeks it had been running a little hotter than normal. I checked the anti-freeze and level, replaced the thermostat with factory new, and the radiator cap. During this 2 week period that I had lost coolant in the catch tank and had to refill 3 times. I did not see any fluid on the drive way nor do I see or smell any at the exhaust. I browed a combustible fuel mixture tester and tested the fumes at the radiator. The test showed I had combustible fuel fumes mixed in with the coolant. When the original engine blew a head gasket at 272,000 miles I smelled anti-freeze everywhere and could see a lot of condensation and the tail pipe. This time I’m not seeing it or smelling it! Also the engine is surging and idling rough for first 5-8 minutes after initial start then it settles out and idles fine. I did replace the spark plugs last week, they were in there for 2 years from the new engine swap and none of the 4 looked like they were not steamed cleaned. I replaced the rotor button and distributor cap. I plan on doing a compression check this week.
So with combustible gas fumes in my radiator my thoughts are the following;
1)Blown head gasket?
2)Cracked / wrapped head?
3)Intake manifold gasket?
4)Cracked intake manifold?
5)Idle air control valve? (Not sure if the 2 lines that tie into this valve could leak coolant into the throttle body) any thoughts on this?
Thanks for any thoughts or insight
JT
Last edited by Gaffman2; 02-23-2010 at 01:22 PM.
#2
Registered User
did you do a block test? with the blue stuff that turns yellow? if so, you either have a cracked head or blown HG.
check here for some info on pinpointing your leak. good luck
http://blockchek.com/instructions.htm
check here for some info on pinpointing your leak. good luck
http://blockchek.com/instructions.htm
#3
Yes, went from blue to green. My only problem is if it's a blown HG or cracked head shouldn't I smell it at the exhaust and shouldn't it have steamed the plug or plugs clean like on my original engine? I'm hoping the compression test will help solve questions. I'm really not sure about the Idle air control valve, and if the IAC valve (component failure) could induce coolant into the intake and dumping into cylinders?
Last edited by Gaffman2; 02-26-2010 at 02:16 AM.
#4
I completed the compression test and got between 130-140 lbs psi on each of the 4 cylinders. I started to remove the EFI and noticed coolant in the throttle body and air intake chamber (AIC). After splitting the AIC from the intake manifold we noticed coolant mixed with gas in all 4 intake ports. At this point with those findings I elected to replace the idle air control valve and gasket $118. We cleaned everything and put it back together. The engine idled a lot better but after pulling the plug wires while it was running the #3 cylinder made no change whether it was on or off. The #3 plug wire had fire so we pulled the #3 plug and did a compression test again 140 lbs psi. However while looking and burning some smoke in the brain cells I noticed a reflection in the plug hole, it was coolant dipping on top the #3 piston. We tore her back down and removed the head, #3 was the only cylinder with coolant in it. I also noticed that the #3 and #2 intake and exhaust cam lobes were worn slam down. Hard to believe this happened with only 27,000 miles on this new not remanufactured engine. Well anyhow I have a new complete 22re head with cam, valves and springs, also 8 new rockers on the way $321, I already had the new gaskets and head bolts at the house.
Thanks tj884Rdlx for your post!
Thanks tj884Rdlx for your post!
Last edited by Gaffman2; 03-20-2010 at 03:53 PM.
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