1986 4runner 22re won't stay running after HG replacement
 

OK... 1986 4runner 22re roughly 50k on the engine with 230,xxx on the body. About 4 months ago I got in a little fender bender because someone stopped in the middle of the road while they were texting, awesome right? rearended her and my truck ended up being fine but the bumper was just bent in, wasn't concerned. A few weeks later I was driving and I noticed that the truck had gotten hot and I saw steam come from under the hood, so I pulled over immediately and my coolant had boiled out from the radiator so i refilled it and drove her carefully till i got home. Had no issues for the rest of the week. but the following week I was out fishing and was driving back and noticed a lack of power. So i took it home and saw that there was blow over near the head gasket so I had assumed it was the head gasket since there would also be steam coming from it. Before embarking on this weekend journey I asked my dad for advice and he had assumed it wasn't the head gasket but the water pump. Replaced the water pump and ended up driving it into town.. sounded like a golf cart almost like all the cylinders weren't firing or it wasn't getting enough gas. Ended up replacing the head gasket which i just finished last week and i re adjusted the valves and made sure she was at TDC. The exact same thing happens when I start it, except this time it'll rev up to 500 and then will surge or bog out, unless given gas. Read on 4crawler about jumping the fuel pump since I couldn't hear it turn on, it turned on but the same thing happens. Checked all the wires and vacuum lines to the best of my ability. Should've marked the lines better, so if anyone has pics of a 86 22re runner i can see, id be stoked. However, i don't think its the lines. Thought it could possibly be the AMF or MAF whichever one it is, so i tested it with the voltmeter and everything seemed to be within spec. Ended up running the diagnostics on it and it pulled an 2, 7, 8, and 11. Unhooked the battery and hooked it back in and i just got code 11. The TPS was originally set and i understand that maybe just maybe that fender bender could've loosened the screws and me living out on gravel roads wouldn't help but i wasn't sure. Code 11 is TPS, is it possible that if my TPS was out of adjustment so much that it would cause the truck to bog out at idle?? i mean even if i throttle it, its still not as responsive as it was before and wants to bog out and die. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. Im officially at a loss and have no clue, I've searched all the forums and all that jazz but this is my last resort. THANKS

what concerns me is that it was doing this before I replaced the head gasket too, so that leads me to believe its some kind of wiring maybe? I dunno I've done 2 of the 22re swaps so I know some stuff just not nearly enough

Back to the basics Spark Fuel Air Timing

What do the spark plugs look like ??

First how are you giving it gas ?? Stepping on the throttle just opens the throttle body giving it more air .

You had the timing chain off and the distributor out install everything correct ??

Head is not cracked??

While the head was off did you install a new fuel filter ??

I am hoping you installed new tune up parts

The TPS should not be causing this problem even if it was unplugged

Spark tester should be it. More reliable way than just taking out the plug and grounding it since the voltage changes at atmospheric pressure.

New parts installed correctly can be affected if somewhere else the error or failure occurred.

:wrench:

Helppp
 

Awesome thank you. Over the weekend I got a new AMF sensor and that seemed to help a bit. However, I pulled the battery and EFI fuse to try to reset the computer and it is only pulling code 11 now, which is TPS. The car will idle now at 300 for maybe 10 seconds then die. If I step on the gas pedal it will rev up but 3 seconds of hesitation before it revs up. Tomorrow evening I will check the plugs and will hopefully be able to buy a new TPS since I believe mine might be shorted out. It sounds as if one of the cylinders isn't firing, like a misfire. The truck has no power whatsoever... Ill check the plugs but I didn't even consider checking them until now since I had just replaced them about a week ago with new wires. Could it possibly be the distributor cap and or rotor?

My dad thinks its the timing or the valves, I'm hesitant to think that since this was the problem it was having before I even replaced the HG. It was a loss of power strung out over a couple of weeks... then one day it wouldn't even start and the day after i had replaced the HG. This was a few weeks ago. The injectors are maybe a year old so is the engine. The engine wasn't rebuilt but was brand new shipped from Monster Toyota in Japan. Tomorrow I will check to make sure all the injectors are ticking while it idles. Ive seen a couple of forums about the Idle air control valve going bad or just being dirty, could it possibly be that? Ive also seen similar problems and people have cleaned out their Cold start injector

Here's where I start. Follow this guide.
https://22reperformance.com/faq-diagnostic-info/

TPS Adjustment:
https://web.archive.org/web/20180710...PS/index.shtml

Adjusted the TPS and it sees to idle now without sputtering, however it will miss during the idle. It idles at about 300-500 rpms... #1 cylinder is not firing, i listened for the ticking on the injectors and heard all 3 other injectors tick but #1 did not. The injector is maybe a year old and I remember paying a pretty penny for it. I took them out and rebuilt them before I finished the HG replacement a week or two ago so I'm confused as to why cylinder #1 isn't firing... brand new spark plugs however I could have gotten a bad one... also brand new NGK plug wires. If the fuel injector was good and cylinder #1 still wasn't firing, what would I check next? thanks

either check the injector with a noid light or swap two of your injectors and see if the miss changes cylinders as well.

^^ Try this test.

The injector harness crimps are also suspect and tend to corrode over time creating bad connections.

:safari:

Yes ^^^ see Zerokelvin's thread where he has pics of the crimp/splice.

Also regarding Noid Light: IF noid light is made of LED's, it may be possible that IF there is high resistance at the crimps above^^^, there may be enough voltage reaching the lights to make them blink giving false indication that the wiring is OK. However, once injectors (actually solenoid valves) with higher current draw are connected, there would be too much voltage drop at the crimp so that too little voltage is left to energize the injectors.

Desperately
 

Super stupid question but all your grounds are connected correct. Firewall, intake side engine, battery, and any other 30+ year old wiring. Also it is possible you have a broken wire in the harness where you manipulated it in the engine compartment. Old wires are brittle.

Did you ever end up getting a new TPS in? Code 7 is related to it and from reading on others' experiences, can be a possible culprit. Though I'd still check if it's giving you appropriate voltages with the changes in throttle before putting down the money on a new one. Less frustrating to spend the extra time to confirm than to go off a hunch/assumption and buy a part and still have the same problem (unless it was dirt cheap to replace anyway).

No more code 11? Did it just go away on its own or was the batt disconnected again?

I'm hesitant to be optimistic with suggestions, with the fact that another engine had to be swapped in just over a yr ago. Who knows what could transpire in that short time frame but I would do some backtracking to make sure the install/removal/other variables like stale fuel (for example, only) were all accounted for. Because problems that just recently presented over the course of a few weeks, could possibly be related to events that have occurred months back, and over the course of time, developed to what they are now. Sometimes. Sometimes not.

Take your time, but let us know.