Skamaniak

So I picked up a 1980 std cab and have a set of 33" swampers I'm going to run on it. I already plan on putting an Aussie locker in at least the rear, and possibly the front as well since I want to re-gear. Question is on a 4spd manual that is only a secondary vehicle and will see very very little highway miles should I go with the 4.88 or 5.37? The truck's going to be used primarily for hunting and exploring with an occasional trip to the dump and such or to get me to work if my DD dies.
I've read around a lot but no one seems to be running a 4spd, and I'm not sure what the difference is between 4th gear on a 4spd and 5th on the 5spd.

4banginRunner

No one makes 5.37s for toy axles.....

5.29s yes

I'd go 4.88s with the 33s

Skamaniak

Yeah, I'm new to the yota scene (grew up on baja bugs) so I'm still getting the terminology. I still couldn't name the components of yota suspension...
But yeah, I'm leaning towards 4.88's since I don't think I'll go to 35's any time soon. the washington state patrol is anal around here about bumper height and stuff.

What about lockers? I really only "need" a locker in the rear for now, but I'm not sure if I should go ahead and toss one in the front while I have the third member apart for the R&P install.

StangBanger

I agree on sticking with the 4.88 if you know its gonna be a long while before you even think of running 35's and since the front will be disassembled you might as well throw a locker in there too..lockers make a world of difference..and welcome to YT..P.S. We all love pics here..lol

Skamaniak

Yeah I plan on doing a build thread when I get started. So far I've just towed it home, picked up some 33" swampers with decent meat and got $100 worth of tune up junk from O'Reilly since I've got to resurrect the yota. I'll post the build link here when I get started. Thanks for your advice.

StangBanger

Goodluck man..

Skamaniak

Started a build thread here incase you're curious:
https://www.yotatech.com/f191/skaman...thread-201309/

Dirt Master80

i have an 80 that had a 4 speed with stock 4.38 gears that i put 33's on. my use of the truck was wheeler with a small chance of road driveing. the 4.38's werent bad but 4.88's would be a perfect fit. going to 5.29's you would scream down a hiway at 50-55 max. for referance im running 5.29's with 36's now and its a great match

peow130

4.38s?
you mean 4.30s? or 4.56's?...?
80's came stock with 4.10's..
81 had 3.90's.
whered you get 4.38s?

4banginRunner

No we mean 4.38s...

79/80 came with 4.38s factory.

Dirt Master80

yes 4.38's some of the early year trucks with 4speeds, and 20r's came with them. though most came with the more common 4.10's.

Skamaniak

So, this isn't related to gearing but I've already got some of your attention...
I ordered an Aussie locker and am torn about which end to install it in. Obviously the rear would help when out cruising around in 2wd... but it seems like the times that I will really need it are in a hill climb, and in that situation the front is going to have the least traction.
So I'm thinking about installing the Aussie in the front and leaving the rear as an open diff for the time being until i can afford a second one.

Thoughts?

smallenginemechanic

4th gear should be the same between l50 and l52, 5th gear is extra, all others are the same. Right guys?

smallenginemechanic

I've been told the locker in the rear of a pickup. Low traction in back because of light rear end. Unless your going up hill. Also it changes your steering characteristics more when you put the locker up front.

Lumpy

Put the locker in the rear...

Dirt Master80

definatly do the locker in the rear. as far as 5th being an extra gear id say kind of. i had the 4 speed and swaped in a late model 5 speed. it seem to me its about 1/2 of an extra gear. and the other 4 are a closer ratio

Skamaniak

Alright. Sounds like I should stick it in the rear. Perhaps I'll just spool the front end for now to save some $$$. the only times I'm going to need 4x4 is in mud or snow around here... there really isn't a lot of crawling you can do, and if you need 4low you don't need a turning radius so a spool wouldn't be a problem.
I've read some guys say it, but is it true that you have to re-adjust the R&P when you install a spool because the ring attaches to it?
i've got a decent MIG/TIG welder but I'm still somewhat new to welding otherwise I'd be fine with just welding the front since it won't get used much.

Dirt Master80

if your buying a spool to then i would recomend puting the aussie in the front. you may think you dont need turning radius but more than a few of my friends have tried spools/welded front diffs and they always take them out