yota 3.0 timing issue (jumping the diag plug)
#1
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yota 3.0 timing issue (jumping the diag plug)
Hey there, feels like my truck was super gutless and lacking some punch so i was just checking compression spark and timing and all that on my rig and and when i jumped the E1 and TE1 slots on the diagose plug nothin happened. There's no distributor vaccuum advance hose apparently so i couldnt retard it that way. Any ideas on what is going on here? Any other old school tricks in the bag to get it to retard to properly set the timing? I read somewhere that you can just set it at 8 degrees btdc but i just wanna make sure thats true.
Thanks for any help
Thanks for any help
#2
Just jump the check connectors(or don't, since in some cases it doesn't matter if you do, as you're now well aware), then set the ignition timing to whatever you want it to be. When you've finished doing that, pull the jumper wire and call it good(don't bother rechecking it). Just because nothing changes with the ignition timing after you pull the jumper wire, doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem. If you've got no codes(and/or no CEL), and you are able to set the initial ignition timing as directed, then there is no problem.
And here's a another piece of advice. Don't assume by setting it to 8° BTDC that it's going to somehow advance that to 10° BTDC on it's own. Base/initial ignition timing advance should be 10° BTDC with TE1 & E1 conectors jumped(according to the FSM, or more advanced if you prefer). And when you remove the jumper wire from the check connectors it's supposed to retard 2°. So if you set it at 8° with the check connectors jumped, it might retard to 6° BTDC(at some point...in theory). Which would be no bueno.
And here's a another piece of advice. Don't assume by setting it to 8° BTDC that it's going to somehow advance that to 10° BTDC on it's own. Base/initial ignition timing advance should be 10° BTDC with TE1 & E1 conectors jumped(according to the FSM, or more advanced if you prefer). And when you remove the jumper wire from the check connectors it's supposed to retard 2°. So if you set it at 8° with the check connectors jumped, it might retard to 6° BTDC(at some point...in theory). Which would be no bueno.
#3
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When you jumped E1 and TE1 did the check engine light start flashing?
If not, then it's possible they weren't jumpered well.
If the TPS is not adjusted properly or faulty, it could stop it from going into base timing mode as well.
If not, then it's possible they weren't jumpered well.
If the TPS is not adjusted properly or faulty, it could stop it from going into base timing mode as well.
Last edited by Marc; 10-17-2012 at 06:38 AM. Reason: changed "will" to "could" in last line
#4
#5
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Here's a reference, in the troubleshooting section.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
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thanks for the info. I havent had time to work on it yet but ive been reading up lots and that tps issue might make sense. I'll check it out and see what happens
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I've seen it in a few places.
Here's a reference, in the troubleshooting section.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
Here's a reference, in the troubleshooting section.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
On another note does anyone know how exactly a tps comes out of adjustment? And does it not throw out a code? My engine light wasnt on and i think it was off by quite a bit.
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